Saint Laurent F/W 13.14 Paris

[Not Plain Jane]

Thank you for posting that video. I quite loved almost all the leather outerwear as well as the tailored jackets; the little beaded sweaters and jackets are lovely pieces, too, as is that oversized black bejewelled sweater. And personally I love some of the boots too.

 

[Maximilian S]

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[HeatherAnne]

Nobody ever posted HQ pictures of this, does anyone know a site where I can find them? Not style.com large size either, actual HQ. Thanks!

 

[Alyssa-K]

I must be one of the few who actually like the collection. I think it was fun and fresh. I don't like that it is so Californian though, Paris & London rock-chic scene has always been better imo. But still, I see myself wearing EVERYTHING from that collection. I like that Hedi has chosen to shift away from the usual things we are seeing these days on runways, I am so bored with the it sweater trend, the statement necklaces, the sneakers (don't even get me started on those..), the overall "bourgeois" look.

Yves Saint Laurent was all about bringing the street on the runway, and I thought this show was a nice reminder of it. Also, what I loved about this collection is that you could really feel an attitude coming out of it. And the pieces are really great. I'm a bit biased I guess since it's quite the style I love, but I do not think he is betraying the identity of Saint Laurent, even though I think it would be best for him to come back to work in Paris in order not to get too much influence from the Californian look.

 

[Chanelcouture09]

Nobody ever posted HQ pictures of this, does anyone know a site where I can find them? Not style.com large size either, actual HQ. Thanks!

*Vogue.co.uk

 

[Chanelcouture09]

*Vogue.co.uk

 

[Chanelcouture09]

*Please be noted that there are some shots missing but the quality left little to be desired.


*Vogue.co.uk

 

[Creative]

This is very Saint Laurent: it has a little bit of fall 1965, a little bit of Belle de Jour, a little bit of spring 1971, some Chanel jackets, a cape from the archives revisited, tiny floral prints, a little bit of le smoking, the chubby coat, la marinière, all the embroidery, the ties, the baby doll, the transparencies...

 

[lepetitcouturier]

This is very Saint Laurent: it has a little bit of fall 1965, a little bit of Belle de Jour, a little bit of spring 1971, some Chanel jackets, a cape from the archives revisited, tiny floral prints, a little bit of le smoking, the chubby coat, la marinière, all the embroidery, the ties, the baby doll, the transparencies...

This collection has nothing to do with YSL. This collection has to do with Slimane's obsession with himself. He's not designing wth Yves in mind. He's designing with Hedi in mind. He put ONE chubby coat in this show. Yves didn't do "tiny floral prints." This collection is made with Courtney Love in mind. Not Catherine Deneuve.


And I don't remember Yves sending low class streetwalkers out on the runway at the finale of his shows.

(Sorry I'm being so b*tchy, I'm in a terrible mood)

 

[Creative]

This collection has nothing to do with YSL. This collection has to do with Slimane's obsession with himself. He's not designing wth Yves in mind. He's designing with Hedi in mind. He put ONE chubby coat in this show. Yves didn't do "tiny floral prints."


And I don't remember Yves sending low class streetwalkers out on the runway at the finale of his shows.

You brought yourself into discredit with that sentence...

I think the main problem here is that nobody knows anything about YSL's career (or 'knows' just a little bit, which is worse).

You can like or not... I don't really like it. But that's one thing, and saying it's not "Saint Laurent" is another.

collection is made with Courtney Love in mind. Not Catherine Deneuve.

...and what's the problem with that?

 

[jmrmartinho]

can you give some examples at how this looks like YSL work? I would apreciate

 

[Creative]

I wish I had the time. Nevertheless, I'm going to tell you in which collections you can find some references:

Fall 1965: There's a cape in this collection which is almost identical to the one Suvi's wearing.
Fall 1969 is a very clear reference too: the leather trench coats, the black short dresses with transparencies at the top...
Spring 1969: The baby dolls with ties.
Fall 1970: the stars print on Edie's jacket.
Spring 1971: The chubby coat.
Fall 1971: the floral prints (he used a lot of floral prints during these years).
Fall 1973 and Spring 1974: The Chanel jacket.

I could go on an on… but you just asked for “some”. It might be difficult to find them on the Internet, but you can try.

I don’t know why people are bashing this collection so much. It’s not worse than 99% the rest of the shows: Vuitton, Chanel, Givenchy, Miu Miu, Chloé, Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi, Cavalli, Versace, Dior, Valentino, Balmain, Ungaro, Galliano, Rochas, Rodarte, Jacobs...

And the argument of Hedi not respecting the legacy is really absurd: does Riccardo “respect” (hate this word) Hubert that much? Just to give an example…

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I'll give Creative some back up: indeed this collection is rife with allusion to Saint Laurent's history. To make him spell it out is tedious, just do your research. There are books about this.

Anyway, I still think this collection is a disaster. Yes, there are nods to the history but what for? And Creative, I really would consider this sub-par than all of those collections you listed, even Ungaro's dreadful showing.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

And I don't remember Yves sending low class streetwalkers out on the runway at the finale of his shows.

(Sorry I'm being so b*tchy, I'm in a terrible mood)

google "Yves Saint Laurent 1971"

he did a whole collection based on "low class streetwalkers"

 

[lepetitcouturier]

I've got an extensive knowledge on YSL. Having (keyword) A chubby coat doesn't mean it's YSL. Having a few floral prints (that look more like topshop) doesn't mean it's YSL. And the problem with him designing for Courtney Love is that who the hell associates her with YSL? Hedi slimane has completely wiped away the history of this house in favour of his crappy vision. I agree with Mutterlein. A few nods to the history is obvious in this collection, with the most visible being the chubby. But that doesn't make this a collection tha tlives up to Yves. At least with Stefano you got a sense of elegance and history of the house, and a lot of his clothes were beautiful. This is designed for 1990s grunge which was a three year trend and doesn't even exist anymore. When Kurt Cobain died so did grunge. This isn't a collection that was made with Yves in mind. But also, if there is one thing that has been the biggest thing in Yves' career, the thing that stuck with him until he died, it was his masterful sense of colour. There is NO colour in this collection.

PS. I looked up Spring '69, didn't see any babydolls.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

I wish I had the time. Nevertheless, I'm going to tell you in which collections you can find some references:

Fall 1965: There's a cape in this collection which is almost identical to the one Suvi's wearing.
Fall 1969 is a very clear reference too: the leather trench coats, the black short dresses with transparencies at the top...
Spring 1969: The baby dolls with ties.
Fall 1970: the stars print on Edie's jacket.
Spring 1971: The chubby coat.
Fall 1971: the floral prints (he used a lot of floral prints during these years).
Fall 1973 and Spring 1974: The Chanel jacket.

I could go on an on… but you just asked for “some”. It might be difficult to find them on the Internet, but you can try.

I don’t know why people are bashing this collection so much. It’s not worse than 99% the rest of the shows: Vuitton, Chanel, Givenchy, Miu Miu, Chloé, Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi, Cavalli, Versace, Dior, Valentino, Balmain, Ungaro, Galliano, Rochas, Rodarte, Jacobs...

And the argument of Hedi not respecting the legacy is really absurd: does Riccardo “respect” (hate this word) Hubert that much? Just to give an example…

Thanks for sharing! It's nice to read about the YSL legacy and how this collection references (and presumably revises & interprets) that.

I guess it's so far afield of what people expect of YSL or Saint Laurent, that it's considered blasphemous. There does seem to be an almost religious fervour surrounding what is considered "faithful". And I use the root word "faith" deliberately.

It's kind of how some people react to film adaptations that stray too far from the original source, or which cast someone who doesn't match their vision of the character.

Anyhow, I agree that you can either love, like, hate or be indifferent to this collection. However, I see a lot of creative freedom by designers at other established houses, too - some who stray FAR away from the original source, or who make references that are not easily discerned to everyone. It's not only Slimane who does this. Besides which, I think is the type of designer who people have/had strong affinities towards/against - even before he came to design at this house, so those feelings will carry over, one way or the other.

 

[Marc10]

And the argument of Hedi not respecting the legacy is really absurd: does Riccardo “respect” (hate this word) Hubert that much? Just to give an example…

Even though i'm not a huge fan of this particular collection, this is the thing that bothers me a lot. People are getting oh so offended that Hedi is not "respecting the legacy of the house", but yet other designers doing the same thing get a free pass? Pilati was stuck on doing what people would expect from YSL, that's why he never excited anyone. Designers NEED to have creative freedom and go beyond heritage walls. If you gonna hate this collection, hate the collection without using this argument

PS: @lepetitcouturier, here's one from 69:


pinterest

 

[lepetitcouturier]

Even though i'm not a huge fan of this particular collection, this is the thing that bothers me a lot. People are getting oh so offended that Hedi is not "respecting the legacy of the house", but yet other designers doing the same thing get a free pass? Pilati was stuck on doing what people would expect from YSL, that's why he never excited anyone. Designers NEED to have creative freedom and go beyond heritage walls. If you gonna hate this collection, hate the collection without using this argument

PS: @lepetitcouturier, here's one from 69:

pinterest

It's not like people don't judge other designers who don't respect the brand.
I certainly do. Riccardo Tisci doesn't respect his brand, I don't like his cltohes. The only one who truly respects it is Karl.

Thanks for that. I couldnt find one.

 

[fashionista-ta]

Thanks for sharing! It's nice to read about the YSL legacy and how this collection references (and presumably revises & interprets) that.

I guess it's so far afield of what people expect of YSL or Saint Laurent, that it's considered blasphemous. There does seem to be an almost religious fervour surrounding what is considered "faithful". And I use the root word "faith" deliberately.

It's kind of how some people react to film adaptations that stray too far from the original source, or which cast someone who doesn't match their vision of the character.

Anyhow, I agree that you can either love, like, hate or be indifferent to this collection. However, I see a lot of creative freedom by designers at other established houses, too - some who stray FAR away from the original source, or who make references that are not easily discerned to everyone. It's not only Slimane who does this. Besides which, I think is the type of designer who people have/had strong affinities towards/against - even before he came to design at this house, so those feelings will carry over, one way or the other.

one thing this collection didn't seem to be inspiring was indifference

Pilati was a truly talented womenswear designer. I disliked a lot of what he did, particularly at the beginning, but his fitness for the post I thought was unquestionable.

Wrt Karl, I have often thought his take on Chanel not that respectful ... but it is always recognizably Chanel.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

^ ha ha, you're right about indifference, or lack thereof.

Although my initial reaction was kind of "meh"; I didn't hate it but I didn't love it either. Most people seemed polarized, and here they were definitely slanted towards the LOATHE end of the spectrum.

Now, though, some pieces have grown on me. I loved the 90s personally speaking, and the whole grunge aesthetic, so perhaps it's purely nostalgia on my end - not sure? In looking at the details, I actually think some of the tailored coats, leathers, and knits are quite nice and even luxurious looking.

Anyhow, I am truly intrigued and can't wait to see who wears this collection and how.