Saint Laurent S/S 2024 Paris

[LadyJunon]

 

[blackcherrified]

So far I am liking what I see in the livestream, an expansion of the safari suit… very very wearable

But the silhouettes feel like they have been pluck directly from the archive… and borderline on being a bit boring…

Can see the shadows of some Stafano Pilati’s creations in there…

The white knee length dress with a loose racer back cutting will sell very very well… and it seems like the belt business is booming almost every look is belted up

 

[thiago:)]

Finally models were able to walk! I feel like the show was quite fabulous in terms of presentation but the clothes are quite unremarkable. They all look sophisticated and expensive (very chic, btw), but in terms of freshness (which is something Pilati used to have), they bring nothing to the table.

I appreciate Vaccarello's safe approach, though. You kinda know that each show he'll revisit the archive and make it a bit lighter and more contemporary in a way.

 

[ReneSanchez]

Frankly, I was surprised by this, loved the Safari reference of YSL, although it could have been heavily edited. It Got boring after the nineteenth cargo jumpsuit.

Those chiffon gowns at the end, are the highlight of the collection for me. Vaccarello doing sweet feminine was unexpected.

 

[blusheels]

The soundtrack and the location always make this show for me.

And even though the collection was repetitive and insipid at time, at least it was very wearable and summer appropriate unlike what was shown in Milan. So, it's a yes from me.

 

[DK92]

I love this safari chic vibe! I imagine what Alt could do with Mikael Janson back in the Vogue Paris days...

 

[GivenchyAddict]

His collection was the least interesting he ever done. It was all too simple for my taste.

He usually managed to draw inspiration from the archives and give everything a twist to make it more interesting and striking.

After the first 15 looks, I got bored. I think it's all going to come down to advertising campaigns and over-the-top marketing stunts, as Kering wants the brand to continue to grow strongly.

 

[disco54]

Brilliant! Finally, Vacarello proved me wrong, what a sublime collection, sumptuous for the eyes. Its very mid 80s Rodeo Drive rich b!tch YSL but modernized in his own way. Definitely one of the best shows of the season

 

[lhhbl]

A total YES for me.

Amazing clothes, ultra luxurious, loyal to the brand identity but with a contemporary feeling.
I can see many rich women in Europe wearing these clothes. I can see men wanting a version of the safari suits. It's just so so good and respectable to the brand's history and identity yet giving his own perspective (he should input it a bit more in the next collections). The chiffon gowns were gorgeous, the safari suits to die for (and now I understand the teasers with the lions), the palette incredible and the hair and make-up as well as the impeccable soundtrack. It was a knockout!

But omg those models were soooo skinny... since NY we're seeing that maybe they got even skinnier than a few years back. Loved seeing Du Juan, Eva Herzigova and Anja Rubik on the runway!

 

[vogue28]

I sat and watched that livestream in absolute awe. Another sublime collection from Anthony Vaccarello, I’m a little lost for words - again!

 

[Lola701]

I don’t know…
This collection reminded me of those 90’s Couture YSL show that I’m not really thrilled by.
It’s very Catherine Deneuve indeed in that infamous documentary of YSL. It’s very old fashioned in the cut.

I do love the idea of a jumpsuit? The cargo pants were great. There were some very beautiful pieces like the overshirt/pants ensembles but I think it was rather unimaginative as an exercise de style.

Stefano did the best jumpsuits, Tom did the best saharienne (in chiffon, printed in leopard ) but Anthony is doing the best cargo pants.


I have to say something that I appreciate about his approach. His YSL RTW is simpler but well finished and I think it’s a great reminder that luxury doesn’t have to be precious. And in stores, it will do the work as there’s more variety.

A lukewarm one this time Anthony.

 

[Norden]

I really love the focus he created for the brand. A beyond respectful way to deal with a heritage house. It might lack in tension but it’s handsomely made up in beautiful shows, sensual and easy to understand clothes that look insanely hot and sexy. I haven’t seen the idea of workwear ever being so sexy. I also adore the necklines where he shows beauty in a very subtle way.

the dresses at the end are really pretty and could work for so many women, dressing them up or down.

as always also good music. Finally a collection that works in its totality.

 

[Yohji]

At a time when every major brand is either trying too hard or not at all, this hits the sweet spot, as always. I would happily own everything.

 

[MulletProof]

His collection was the least interesting he ever done. It was all too simple for my taste.

I think the least interesting ones, not to say horrid, were his very first ones for YSL, when he seemed to be a prisoner of the Hedi template. Once he broke out of that, he’s been fascinating to watch and comes across as being humble and unapologetically romantic, which is so refreshing and kind of heart-warming for a change (in a time where everything is ‘ironic’, phony, ‘weird’ and just a s*it show of smugness). In this second era of his work though, I’ll agree this is one of his least explorative collections.

I like it mostly because I’ve been really into browns for months (wearing brown as a type lol) but also because, the oasis here is exactly how his shows feel.. you look at NY, Milan, the way Paris starts now (e.g. Vaquera.. aka. NYFW’s bottom of the barrel wanting to pass off as PFW) and then comes YSL and it just feels like it floats above all the trash, it’s clean, refined, safe, cozy, and kind of isolated too.. like time traveling via @justaguy ’s archives.

 

[Overindulgence]

Well that was anti-climactic when the final look came, ver much a "that's it?" moment. I wish he'd do what he did for the 2018-19 shows and show the swim/resort wear during the final portion of the show - to give it an extra jolt of energy.

When he first veered in this direction, it felt fresh for the first couple of seasons and I loved it, and I still appreciate it. I was intimidated by the YSL woman. But as each show displays that archetype without much change or progression, she seems more and more like a muted vampire - a wealthy but unhappy wife. Does she ever go on vacation or leave the house during the day time? Or does she just stay inside in her cold marble home all day and only go out for private cocktail parties where she doesn't speak much but she looks great. Which I guess is a vibe..

At least there was some color this time.

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[gallianostan]

sleep-inducing. he nose-dived head-first into the archives and came out of them carrying as much as he could. this isn't fresh or original.

YES to the rail-thin models, though; it's nice to know he isn't trying to appease the social media mob.

 

[LadyJunon]

I glad that he did another "Saharienne" themed collection. Those beiges and browns look delectable and everything flowed so beautifully. The setting and the soundtrack was amazing too, especially with Deneuve numbering each look couture-salon-style (livestream logistics kind of f*cked with it though...). I understand why he's a favourite to both the industry and the clientele.

For those interested, the show was held on the over side of the Eiffel Tower, on "Champ de Mars" instead of on their usual "Fontaine de Varsovie" location.

Well that was anti-climactic when the final look came, ver much a "that's it?" moment. I wish he'd do what he did for the 2018-19 shows and show the swim/resort wear during the final portion of the show - to give it an extra jolt of energy.

The funny thing is that Vaccarello only pulled that trick, because he was unable to edit (his words). That said, I do miss those double-act shows sans finale. They reminded me of Tom Ford's shows in a way. The main issue is that it led to each show compiling of 90+ exits, which is a lot, even for Kering's Nº2 house. They would've been able to sustain that if he kept the final edit to 60 looks, splitting the show 40/20.

 

[Nimsay]

This couldve had a bunch of repeat looks removed. Overall this is incredibly chic and very YSL. A couple looks veer into Eddie Bauer or Power dressing.