Schiaparelli F/W 2021.22 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[apple]

I must admit that I'm really liking the new direction of the house. It surely has brought Schiaparelli back into the conversation, just look at Emma Corrin's Couture look for the Critic's choice awards yesterday. And I like this collection as well, it has the same ideas of the couture show but it's still interesting. I think he can keep up.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

Schiaparelli by Olivier Rousteing.

 

[Deleted member 167090]

His vision for Schiap is more tacky than quirky, for example, the shocking pink dress is quite tacky in a way that I will not associate with the brand, which is more intellectual than this offering.

 

[Marc10]

I love it, I think he really found his footing here. It's just unapologetically flamboyant, exuberant fashion, such a joyful vibe that is all but lost nowadays.

 

[WAVES]

I also like it and I don’t think it’s tacky at all. it has nerve, it’s feminine, extravagant but extremely chic.

 

[Salvatore]

I really find it fun and beautiful. I was not sure about his vision for the first few shows, but this and the previous haute couture I love to look at. Nice.

 

[YohjiAddict]

I don't get it, too much gold but I like the Chanel suit if only for the implied irony in the gesture of referencing someone the house founder hated. He should do a charred Chanel suit to reference that one time Gabrielle "accidentally" set poor Elsa on fire!

The Alaïa hood dress has been done better...

 

[Lola701]

For some reason, I feel more the Mugler vibes than Schiaparelli...
I think there’s a lack of finesse in this and an agressivity that feels very Mugler!

The whole thing feels more customized than designed but at least it has personality.

And the black bag is great!

 

[Avonlea]

His collections always feel directionless. From the very beginning I got the impression that he is trying to cover lack of vision by throwing in as many gimmicks as possible. There is no theme, no story, nothing that would form a cohesive whole. Without the breast plates and body molds you end up with very simple clothes and that's the problem. Mcqueen also loved gimmicks but he would always make sure his garments were strong on its own.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Without the breast plates and body molds you end up with very simple clothes and that's the problem.

For real he just decorates tf outta everything

 

[perhydrol]

It's a strong collection which is pretty surprising, I believe it's the first season (both RTW and couture) that is not a disaster. However, as you mentioned before, Daniel seems to be working in a very decorative way what really exposes his limited range as a designer. It's like he doesn't go deep with his inspirations and everything stays on the surface. That being said, I don't know whether it's going to be enough to build a relevant vocabulary for this struggling house.

 

[jeanclaude]

Feels more early 90s Moschino than Schiaparelli...