Schiaparelli Haute Couture F/W 2022.23 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[WinstonH20]

Oh wow, I have to say I kind of love all of this. Overall, it feels quite luxe and sophisticated, something that's sorely missing in many collections at the moment. I love the mix of textures, fabrics and shapes.

I do wish he'd dispense with some of the headwear though, it's very gimmicky and over-the-top and cheapens some of the looks (very FASHUUUUN). The clothes are enough by themselves (in most instances). Also, what most of this has to do with Elsa Schiaparelli is anyone's guess, but I'm not mad at it.

 

[JohannesL]

The collection is far from the intellectual and artistic spirit of Schiaparelli, but Beautiful and also forgettable! He is still lacking the wit to do this brand.

 

[Lola701]

Very dated…Only look 10 is good to me.
This reminds me somehow of a more dated version of Gaultier mixed with some Lacroix and Mugler. But it feels very heavy-handed and it lacks humor…
In a way it fits with the idea people have of Couture. Maybe it’s the styling…

That being said, that velvet is fabulous!

 

[THD96]

It's more Schiaparelli by YSL edited by Daniel. Especially the floral section, it could easily be YSL couture. I don't know why he still looking at other designers' versions of Schiaparelli when he has direct access to her archives.

Also, he needs to drop the gimmicks like the hats and gold jewelry, it getting tired at this point.

 

[CholoChic]

It has a lot of flower charm

 

[YohjiAddict]

Very watered-down Lacroix, it’s impossible to rival the eccentricity of the master for someone with as limited an imagination as Daniel.

I will say that the overall execution is quite good and you can see the care put into these garments…too bad the design concepts are half-baked and derivative.

I’ll admit to liking the outfit on Mica and the orange bolero jacket with jet beads embroidery though.

 

[BlueRuin]

It’s a nice collection with beautiful pieces but as others have said, it seems we’re just going into the past rather than being inspired by it. Fashion as a whole seems to be drifting that way.

 

[yslforever]

It's more Schiaparelli by YSL edited by Daniel. Especially the floral section, it could easily be YSL couture. I don't know why he still looking at other designers' versions of Schiaparelli when he has direct access to her archives.

Also, he needs to drop the gimmicks like the hats and gold jewelry, it getting tired at this point.

By YSL yes, but also I see a lot a Lacroix, and there are worst reference in Couture.
Anyway, it's a hundred times more fascinating and romantic than the Dior sleeping show.

 

[Mutterlein]

Very YSL.

Lacroix, too.

I think it's quite good.

 

[KoV]

Don’t know how I feel about the flowers, but almost everything else I love. Mariacarla’s black and green dress stood out to me as particularly beautiful and dynamic, not reliant on any of the over-the-top ornamentation I expect (and often enjoy) from Schiaparelli.

 

[LadyJunon]

I love it when a designer's vocabulary expands. The bias-cut and draped dresses are a nice nod to Schiap's heyday. The exposed breasts are likely a fun nod to Daniel's obsession with Gaultier. The large but controlled volumes added the necessary drama. The straw hats give me Jacquemus, but less pretentiously provincial. The feather hat gives me Valentino, but less childish. The red, green and black jewellery is a logical, but pleasing next step from the gold. The strass garments too. I also like that they reduced the gold to clothing ratio.

 

[aracic]

Perhaps it's dated, but who could stomach another one of the ''modern'' Jacquemus looking collections? I'm very appreciative of the old school high glamour we get from Schiaparelli with each new offering. I understand how the ott accessorizing can become tiring and nauseating for some, but in this collection I feel like he's already toning it down drastically. We went from entirely ornamental collections to a pair of oversized earrings here and there and I appreciate that. Most of the garments look beautiful when they're stripped of all the grand supplements, but I do think that his accessories often elevate the design. May be kitsch, but I'll take it.

I loved the hats in the first couple of looks, I feel like they complemented the outfits beautifully. The gown on Felice Nova with the choker and a gold cross looks stunning. So simple yet so effective. Look 16 is another favorite, I always love a good pearly garment and I particularly enjoyed how those pants frame the model's torso, I think the design looks beautiful although highly risque to actually wear. The flower numbers are a lovely little YSL reference, but I didn't particularly enjoy the garments. I don't like the flower arrangements, but I do love looks 26 and 27. It looks like an elevated version of the bouquet gowns Jeremy Scott designed for Moschino a while back. I also really enjoyed the draped garments which look very dynamic and retro - that outfit with a cropped orange jacket and a light blue skirt look like they could be pulled straight out of an 80s Lacroix runway!

Overall, I'm pretty satisfied with the collection. It's the first fashion show in a long time where I actually felt compelled to click on each thumbnail without just scrolling past.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

I’m not seeing it and I’m not getting it. I see references to other designers doing Schiaparelli far too strongly in this than Schiaparelli itself. Is it an expansion of Roseberry’s repertoire? Sure, but it’s derivative as hell.

It feels very cliche “French Fashun Couture”, like an uncomfortably ornate fashion show sequence in say, oh I don’t know, Emily in Paris.

 

[Mutterlein]

It's more Schiaparelli by YSL edited by Daniel. Especially the floral section, it could easily be YSL couture. I don't know why he still looking at other designers' versions of Schiaparelli when he has direct access to her archives.

Also, he needs to drop the gimmicks like the hats and gold jewelry, it getting tired at this point.

YSL and Schiaparelli were quite close. Elsa Schiaparelli was one of his first clients and would order at least one model from him a year. Until YSL showed his first collection in '62, Schiaparelli bought almost exclusively from Balenciaga.

YSL is fair game for Schiaparelli as far as I'm concerned.

 

[vogue28]

I've been falling head over heels for Daniel Roseberry's Schiaparelli for a number of seasons now and have come to adore his knack for glamour and theatrics but these Yves Saint Laurent references are just sending my love for Roseberry into absolute overdrive.

I watched the live stream and I was transported back to John Galliano's Christian Dior with the drama and anticipation as the lights began to turn on as the show started, I was utterly entranced from the get-go. Brilliant soundtrack, and the set with the stairs was fabulous and felt like an occasion from a bygone era, as the models walked in slow motion. A truly spectacular collection with that look Eva Herzigova wore being my fave! Obsessed.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

I really like look 7 with the grapes

 

[susseinmcswanny]

I feel bad saying this and maybe it is unfair, but just visually he seems so unambitious as a couturier in terms of actually making clothes. Like he is so focused on decorating with little nipples and locks and charms that he never had an interest in taking the time to explore the history of dress and pattern making. Or maybe I just don't know enough about Schiaparelli to get it but it's consistently a no from me dawg

 

[Rebecca Morgan]

I’m not seeing it and I’m not getting it. I see references to other designers doing Schiaparelli far too strongly in this than Schiaparelli itself. Is it an expansion of Roseberry’s repertoire? Sure, but it’s derivative as hell.

It feels very cliche “French Fashun Couture”, like an uncomfortably ornate fashion show sequence in say, oh I don’t know, Emily in Paris.

I mean it does give that vibe

 

[Urban Stylin]

Am glad that the metallics era is over even though we loved them. This looks chic but still provocative