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Kering brands (with the exception of Gucci) like to show the pre-collections privately to buyers, before a public release six months later when they arrive in stores.
No babe, as a womenswear designer seeing that 1granary post is honestly quite tragic.
we're a fashion community, and our job here is to engage in fashion criticism. the fact of the matter is that sean mcgirr is a poor tailor; we can see that from his graduate collection. mcqueen was already a consummate tailor and pattern-cutter by the age of 22. you underestimate the importance of a compelling creative vision to recent brands like alexander mcqueen. it is not dior, or chanel. it hasn't reached the billion-pound benchmark. it cannot simply sustain itself. if kering wants to expand the reach of the house, they need a designer who can counterbalance commerce and business savvy with an imaginative design vision. these designers are already getting paid far more than they should (for the dogshit they put out), so they're perfectly able to take some criticism. proclaiming that the days of creativity "are over" is a lazy excuse to legitimise mediocrity; couture was declared dead in the late 80s/early 90s, and then experienced a tremendous revival. marketing true creativity and obvious talent is far easier than marketing a pile of sh*t. the talent speaks for itself. it doesn't need an insipid diatribe about 'heritage' and "savoir-faire" by bernard arnault.
You’re in troubles if you start confusing British and Irish…
pun intended?
Raf delivered fantastic work and got a job as a womenswear designer at Jil before he even knew how to make one goddamn dress or figure out how to dress women in general (and he did, but has never really been outstanding). It's not ideal but..
... learning a crucial part of the job while at the job is more common than you think and not exclusive to fashion. Ultimately, he created that collection from scratch but does he need to in corporate fashion? he'll just delegate. Good if he's a great tailor but not the end of the world if he's not. McQueen was from a generation that, just like chefs in the 90s in contrast to people who graduate culinary school these days and want to skip a year of peeling off potatoes because they want stardom and they want it now, still worked their way up by learning their craft from the very basics and took their time refining it and mastering it. I mean, the man died while at his own label, signing designs that carried his name, it's a different life philosophy and trajectory. Working your way up means something so different now, in an era where fashion is 95% corporate s*it, it means mobility and knowing how to be okay being a yes man, just like a finance bro.
) so at least they're bringing in new people. On the other hand, the fact that he's never really been independent is not a good sign, he may have some freshness but.. he's been in the worst part of the system for too long and it's his professional foundation, you can't undo that and it shows in how creativity is conveyed. Just look at Glenn Martens, he experienced independence for a minute but it's like he never did, he just churns out garbage season after season and now in two different cities.. polluting way more than the average/older designer. Same thing will happen here, it's not pessimism, just.. an easy forecast.
Sorry, I meant so soon after her last show. But yeah it's Kering at the end of the day, they love a quick switch flip when it comes to their designer coming and goings.
They probably actually had him in place from before the announcement, but they probably wanted Burton to have a proper swansong. The type of swansong Lee deserved.
