Seán McGirr - Designer, Creative Director of Alexander McQueen

[gallianostan]

They probably actually had him in place from before the announcement, but they probably wanted Burton to have a proper swansong. The type of swansong Lee deserved.

yeah... it kinda sucks that we got lumped with plato's atlantis as his swansong. it's a good collection, just not even remotely one of his best. really not sure why it got so overhyped posthumously.

 

[Yasouss]

Have not heard of him before and will be curious to see what he does with McQueen. His appointment seems in a similar process to how Sabato was at Gucci, slightly unknown designer looking to maximize profits fast, and seeing how it went at Gucci, I hope they don't tone it down to oblivion here.

 

[LadyJunon]

yeah... it kinda sucks that we got lumped with plato's atlantis as his swansong. it's a good collection, just not even remotely one of his best. really not sure why it got so overhyped posthumously.

Probably because of a mix of multiple things:
• It's known as the last show McQueen bowed for (in truth, it was actually FW10 Men's)
• It's the first livestreamed show (on Showstudio)
• It was the premiere of Lady Gaga's "Bad Romance", which crashed the site
• Those disgusting shoes
• Easily rewatchable (SS98 was the first show to have an official video and lots of his shows before SS01 were quite hard to find until recently)

As for McGirr, I feel that he'll benefit from looking at earlier McQueen collections, especially the tailoring and the shapes that were shown there, which will suit his history in menswear. It helps that that era is quite minimalist too (minimal surface detail, minimal use of print, mostly neutral colours).

From there, he needs to figure out the main elements of the staging of Lee's shows and execute that for today's standards.

 

[Mathewthew]

So the JW alumni is the new Phoebe Alumni.
But I'm still looking forward to see what he will be offering

 

[Tchi]

You’re in troubles if you start confusing British and Irish…

Oh surely He graduated from the famous CSM of Dublin!

 

[Lola701]

this is completely doomed. nobody but lee's colleagues and true mcqueen historians/experts know the house codes well enough to be CD. there's a certain sartorial grammar that you just become trained to immediately identify, and that kind of skill comes only after years of familiarising yourself with his work. this stupid twink is setting himself up for failure.

It doesn’t mean anything as his right hand woman’s vision has seemed to differ and deviate heavily from his work or his supposed philosophy.

He will work with a skilled Atelier, he has extensive archives on which he can pull elements to develop his language at McQueen.

Lee for the master tailor he was missed totally his first collection for Givenchy despite all the ressources he got. So I think we can give some grace to the new guy and not expect the worst because his universe is different.

‘Do we know if Sarah is leaving alone or if she is followed by some part of her team?

 

[yslforever]

I don’t know the man and won’t judge till I see.
I am just relieved that Kering’s hirings don’t follow the hype, hire any Kim or Kanye’s protégé or a music producer….

 

[tourbillions]

^ Happy to see all these people's BA collections and student projects, please link us up.

Fashion is about going forward, not fantasising a world that doesn't exist anymore. You get talents like those you mentioned once in a generation. Even today, the industry has moved on from their approach.

We know Plato Atlantis but today's kids think of McQueen for sneakers. FOR SNEAKERS. MCQUEEN.

Enough with all this nostalgia, and treating fashion designers like they're the messiah. At the end of the day, this is an industry not an art gallery. If it's terrible and doesn't sell, he'll go. If it's subpar and it sells. so be it. I mean, look around and the amount of veterans showing terrible collection after terrible collection. It's not like we have been blessed by so many groundbreaking fashion moments in recent times...!

We live in a different moment, where CEOs and top executives do not want to deal with egos -- that on top of that cost millions. I let you imagine the yearly salary of a Ghesquiere vs. someone like Sean... No more divas (those who tried like LDSS and Daniel Lee broke their teeth in the process), lower salaries so they cost you less if you want to get rid of them, and talents that can quickly assimilate a company culture and understand they need to perform sale-wise. Not the best recipe for intense creativity but these days are over, and everybody should move on.

Although the sneakers are definitely popular in and out of TFS, I think most queens know Mcqueen for platos atlantis, lady gaga, and all that "avant-garde" later collections of Mcqueen. It seems to be his later vibe though but i feel people buy the sneakers because it's the easiest thing they can afford to get a piece of Mcqueen/that platos atlantis collection. I remember his earlier shows were quite more rtw and clothes that are easy to wear when taken out of the show. Aside from the obvious show pieces every now and then. A lot of tailored jackets and trousers that fit like a glove, strong shoulders, cinched corseted waist. Not as avant-garde and artsy as many expected Burton to do and probably also expecting Mcgirr to do. He was a showman and many of today's Mcqueen followers intermix that with avant-garde and unwearable "art pieces". They can go to CDG for that.

As i mentioned in another thread, if looking at their past cash cows when Mcqueen was alive... it used to be scarves and the bumpsters. Not much more commercial than the current sneakers. Although im not more informed which of his other pieces "made it" commercially. Perhaps some other forum members have better input on what they actually sold before Burton's tenure.

Unfortunately, i'm almost sure that Mcgirr's first collection would be his interpretation of platos atlantis just because of how commercially successful it was. This is also the best way to make Mcqueen reach their financial goals as a company. I really hope they don't increase prices so harshly like burberry.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I think this poor guy needs to be able to prove himself. He has big shoes to fill. I don’t think it’s fair to expect mcqueen returning to its dramatic origins. Kering wants its houses to perform merchandising tricks with a tiny bit of identity of the houses and big shows. In that respect he might be good for the job. There’s no real substance in these houses anymore except for their heritage for kering.

under kering all of its houses have become very streamlined, a feat on itself. But it’s less about fashion and more about branding and pr.

the hiring of this guy has to do with cost and risk management. He’s talented for sure, but he’s also a smart investment. It’s very naive to expect kering to get Pugh for something like this.

How exactly would it have been a 'naive' thought to hire a designer like Pugh, who despite the fact that he failed to put his label on financially solid footing after ending his collaboration with Olmar & Mirta, still regularly produces stage outfits for some of the entertainment industry's biggest names, such as Beyoncé or having one of the most prominent couture collectors like Daphne Guinness as a personal client?

I think what the CEOs of today are missing is the power of a well-orchestrated PR sensation and for a house whose imagery has forever secured itself a place in modern fashion history (with the regular assistance of people like Nick Knight and his platform ShowStudio), it doesn't make sense to completely ignore the potential this can have for the sales and visibility of a brand. Gareth Pugh created a lot of memorable fashion imagery with ShowStudio, his fashion videos with Ruth Hogben are some of the most well-known ones from the late 2000s and early 2010's when people just started out using this format.

We have only seen little of what this new guy did 'on his own', but it's one thing to look at a graduate collection and another to have an emerging designer start his or her label with the support of NewGen and being officially on the LFW schedule for years until another house considers them for a creative director position. They will make different experiences leading their own teams and building a brand with a strong visual identity of their own first, which is a vital experience when taking over a much bigger operation later.

I would really like to know where all these people like Mary Katrantzou, Christopher de Vos, Peter Pilotto, Marios Schwab, Todd Lynn and the many more who came before them are today. Are they supposed to work UNDER people like this new guy here at McQueen? That makes no sense to me at all...

 

[KoV]

So much vitriol flying in his direction so soon? I feel badly for him. Can’t be easy taking the reins under any circumstances, especially with the bosses to whom he now answers. And now seemingly anyone with an opinion at all is praying on his downfall, simply because. Hoping Sèan proves himself right out of the gate. I get it, everyone’s a critic these days, but he hasn’t even produced anything to judge yet!

Still, I’m old enough to remember the days when many people spoke much less fondly of Sarah Burton’s appointment, so time will tell.

 

[Norden]

How exactly would it have been a 'naive' thought to hire a designer like Pugh, who despite the fact that he failed to put his label on financially solid footing after ending his collaboration with Olmar & Mirta, still regularly produces stage outfits for some of the entertainment industry's biggest names, such as Beyoncé or having one of the most prominent couture collectors like Daphne Guinness as a personal client?

I think what the CEOs of today are missing is the power of a well-orchestrated PR sensation and for a house whose imagery has forever secured itself a place in modern fashion history (with the regular assistance of people like Nick Knight and his platform ShowStudio), it doesn't make sense to completely ignore the potential this can have for the sales and visibility of a brand. Gareth Pugh created a lot of memorable fashion imagery with ShowStudio, his fashion videos with Ruth Hogben are some of the most well-known ones from the late 2000s and early 2010's when people just started out using this format.

We have only seen little of what this new guy did 'on his own', but it's one thing to look at a graduate collection and another to have an emerging designer start his or her label with the support of NewGen and being officially on the LFW schedule for years until another house considers them for a creative director position. They will make different experiences leading their own teams and building a brand with a strong visual identity of their own first, which is a vital experience when taking over a much bigger operation later.

I would really like to know where all these people like Mary Katrantzou, Christopher de Vos, Peter Pilotto, Marios Schwab, Todd Lynn and the many more who came before them are today. Are they supposed to work UNDER people like this new guy here at McQueen? That makes no sense to me at all...

Look I agree with you on everything, but I think Kering has adopted another model for structuring their fashion houses around creative directors. Gareth Pugh is very much a person with a singular world and strong imagery with collaborators. I think Kering approaches their houses from a much more corporate perspective, which is evident in their current crop of creative directors (sans Demna). I think something clicked for them when they saw Anthony at YSL, where you could have a quiet CD with very streamlined PR and marketing around it. For me Kering is creating something very formulaic which is very far away from a soulful designer who works from personal conviction etc.

It's sad, but I think this is todays reality. And it's not only in fashion, it's everywhere. Its creating a very flat and surface visual culture.

 

[tricotineacetat]

Look I agree with you on everything, but I think Kering has adopted another model for structuring their fashion houses around creative directors. Gareth Pugh is very much a person with a singular world and strong imagery with collaborators. I think Kering approaches their houses from a much more corporate perspective, which is evident in their current crop of creative directors (sans Demna). I think something clicked for them when they saw Anthony at YSL, where you could have a quiet CD with very streamlined PR and marketing around it. For me Kering is creating something very formulaic which is very far away from a soulful designer who works from personal conviction etc.

It's sad, but I think this is todays reality. And it's not only in fashion, it's everywhere. Its creating a very flat and surface visual culture.

I understand regarding the Saint Laurent model to be a potential blueprint of a 'quiet succession case', but when you look at Saint Laurent, all of that happened only because Kering had no intention to deviate from the foundation laid by Hedi Slimane that proved wildly successful - This is why even today there are a lot of products clearly derived from ones developed a good 10 years ago and it's only been most recent that the menswear shows under Anthony Vaccarello are more in line with the womenswear.

With McQueen, I would be curious to hear how will this operation has been doing but my guess is that the house has performed less decently compared to any other Kering-owned fashion brand. There is simply not a lot besides the aforementioned sneakers for the new guy to build up on, as Sarah Burton's tenure has produced less 'icons' or easily remixable 'building block', unlike Hedi Slimane's Saint Laurent.

All of that leads me to believe the house of McQueen is up for a change in direction, more along the lines of when Daniel Lee took over Bottega Veneta from Thomas Maier.

 

[NoInvite]

I understand regarding the Saint Laurent model to be a potential blueprint of a 'quiet succession case',

Francesca Bellettini from Saint Laurent is recently promoted to Deputy CEO of Kering. I think there is a lot of influence from her at the newly appointed roles within the group.

 

[yslforever]

Francesca Bellettini from Saint Laurent is recently promoted to Deputy CEO of Kering. I think there is a lot of influence from her at the newly appointed roles within the group.

Definitely… that’s why I am not surprised at all by the lining of white males.
She’s the kind of female manager much more comfortable in an all-male environment.

 

[fenty]

Francesca:

 

[Thefrenchy]

we're a fashion community, and our job here is to engage in fashion criticism. the fact of the matter is that sean mcgirr is a poor tailor; we can see that from his graduate collection. mcqueen was already a consummate tailor and pattern-cutter by the age of 22. you underestimate the importance of a compelling creative vision to recent brands like alexander mcqueen. it is not dior, or chanel. it hasn't reached the billion-pound benchmark. it cannot simply sustain itself. if kering wants to expand the reach of the house, they need a designer who can counterbalance commerce and business savvy with an imaginative design vision. these designers are already getting paid far more than they should (for the dogshit they put out), so they're perfectly able to take some criticism. proclaiming that the days of creativity "are over" is a lazy excuse to legitimise mediocrity; couture was declared dead in the late 80s/early 90s, and then experienced a tremendous revival. marketing true creativity and obvious talent is far easier than marketing a pile of sh*t. the talent speaks for itself. it doesn't need an insipid diatribe about 'heritage' and "savoir-faire" by bernard arnault.

I'm not sure that referring to someone as a "stupid twink" is the pinnacle of fashion criticism. I've been at tFS for 17 years and I don't recall this place turning into a giant twitter account.

Now regarding your point, first it's lacking a true understanding of how the current business is ran at houses that belong to a conglomerate. Anyone (like myself and I'm sure some others here) whose reality it is outside of a fashion forum, actually knows of the demand of key executives when it comes to "toning it down", "making sure it speaks to the broader market" and so on. We just don't have the freedom that people had 20 years ago. Creativity is harnessed as much as possible. Yes, it makes everything less exciting, including what all of us do. But sadly the good ole days can't be replicated, for a variety of reasons that I've already mentioned. And alas, boring sells which fuels some people's fire to believe that it's just fine as it is.

 

[KoV]

Question for the culture: is it really such a tragedy that these particular labels, all founded by (and in several cases named after) white male designers, currently have white male CDs? I’m not saying diversity isn’t valuable, but if a white male CD is a default turn-off, there are many other labels run by women or minorities that would be happy for the business. Nothing is being taken away. Champagne problems.

 

[Lola701]

Question for the culture: is it really such a tragedy that these particular labels, all founded by (and in several cases named after) white male designers, currently have white male CDs? I’m not saying diversity isn’t valuable, but if a white male CD is a default turn-off, there are many other labels run by women or minorities that would be happy for the business. Nothing is being taken away. Champagne problems.

The white male outrage and fake conversation is only relevant on social media and has no relevance in the real world because let’s be honest: The vast majority of the people criticizing the hiring works for companies where the Owner, CEO or Manager is a white man.

There’s something that I find quite paradoxal and sad in a way…I was confused by the amount of gay white man criticizing the hiring when they are a minority themselves and when we know that the fashion industry and creative fields for the most part are the only industry where gay men can have access to top positions of authority without having to resort to « hide their sexuality ».

‘For me, when we talk about HR and opportunities in those brands, it starts essentially in the HR departments, where you can provide opportunities to people in the studios or in the executive team.

‘And I have to say that the American POV around those question, that is a very passionate one is totally disconnected from the European one. We don’t have the same corporate culture and therefore the same expectations…Sadly.

Quotas based on ethnicities are forbidden in France and KERING is a French company. It has it pros and cons. On paper it means fair chance on everybody but it also mean that you are totally dependent on the appreciation of the person in front of you…

Anyway, it will be interesting to see those same people who are complaining, attend the Alexander McQueen show in March, gladly accept to be dressed by the brand and for the editors, to accept the advertising money provided by the company where the CD is a white gay man, the owner a straight white man to their journal or magazine, probably owned by a white straight man.

 

[MulletProof]

^^ one thing I’ve noticed around here, I think disco75 brought up a similar point last week, is that there seems to be a lack of effort, perhaps because the magnitude and complexity of a conglomerate requires extra work, to understand the differences between a little clothing business in some godforsaken town in Belgium, or say, an Amish/Mennonite community, its market and targeted demographic (other people in the same village and what appeals to them and the best way to make them spend their money) and the transformation it goes through and that needs to constantly evolve when said label is acquired by a transnational company whose goal is to profit and in the process, decimate anything that remotely resembles and poses a thread to the general idea of that label by aggressively taking over their market in freakin’ Nicaragua, in Almaty, in Chongqing, in every corner of the world they can squeeze themselves into. The small demographic this was confined to is a thing of the past the moment you push this internationally and similarly, the language and dynamics within the company have already changed so why on earth would you still use, say, a bunch of Mennonites to advertise in Paraguay? lol, or be like ‘oh yeah our founder was a local so let’s get someone local’.. is the brand local? not anymore so.. ?. Again, I don’t endorse hiring someone just to appease the social media mob that could not care less about fashion and just want a ‘moment’ they can repost/publicly approve so the people who follow them know they’re on the ‘right side’ of society, I just think a business needs to be judged in present time, not for what it used to be. And personally, as someone who grew up in an melting pot where the majority of people look rather ambiguous lol, if you’re going to make it your mission to bombard me with propaganda day and night and on every corner of my daily commute, at least trigger something aspirational.. I personally don’t mind seeing pics of a bunch of Mennonite or Sub-Saharan underage-looking girls laughing in a yacht but after picture #37 on the 20th year, it’s like ‘okay…?!’.. go McDonalds and learn how to adapt your product, and if you can find a director who, unlike the modest original owner who was just creating for the villagers, has traveled to nearly every country this product is now in and understands the nuances while still being awesome at his/her job, even better!

*also, typing on my phone, excuse the mess lol.

 

[NYLA22]

Question for the culture: is it really such a tragedy that these particular labels, all founded by (and in several cases named after) white male designers, currently have white male CDs? I’m not saying diversity isn’t valuable, but if a white male CD is a default turn-off, there are many other labels run by women or minorities that would be happy for the business. Nothing is being taken away. Champagne problems.

I completely agree, especially in regard to a company like Alexander McQueen. The social media outrage is ridiculous and frankly, it strikes me as a little homophobic (and literally racist; the company founded by a gay white man shouldn't consider a gay white man as the CD? It's all so silly).