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Shop Design & Displays
- Thread starter Acid
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MulletProof
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Nice major update, Benn. You've been working hard lately! and keeping tFS alive and exciting. Back in 2005-2006, we had some wonderful people that would start threads like this and bring so much material to look at and to discuss. That was after a major exodus and software upgrade (that all the regular members were opposed to).. it ended up educating many of us, encouraging others to search for new things and share, reinject excitement about fashion and we ended up with a stronger community I think. Even if it's unlikely to get that many replies anymore, it's still nice to encourage viewers (esp. younger members) to just learn about something different.. not just the "model wearing outfit" (shows, magazines) thing that's seen as the be-all and end-all of fashion.
I loved fashion in all of my formative years but luxury shopping/stores… I don't know, I always thought I would probably gain appreciation with age and stability and the ability to dive in lol. I didn't know that small part that made me see most of it as quite tasteless and slightly irresponsible would later snowball and make me find most of what fashion embodies quite.. garbage-y? demeaning?. When I look at most of it.. it just feels that way, and when they add toys/games at the stores, it makes me wonder if they think or just know that their clientele has to be pampered like that, like a dumb and rich compulsive shopper with the mind of an infant (specifically a football player, trafficker, celebrities, escorts w/ oligarchs, all that).
Anyway, I like The Row stores.. you can tell they're few, they have some soul. Paul Smith's Berlin store is also cute in that museum/gallery gift shop kind of way. Also loved the Chanel Toronto store, it reminds me of the 'fancy' department stores in 1930s LA (Westlake), I was looking at an old book of that recently. Glossier's stores are fun too.. if you're going to be overly designed, at least be cheeky about it.
Margiela stores look like hell.. same for CK (that's over though), and I don't even have to get into the pointless existence of the Celine stores but that f*cking little furniture..
Glad you've spared us from Louis Vuitton. So far.
I loved fashion in all of my formative years but luxury shopping/stores… I don't know, I always thought I would probably gain appreciation with age and stability and the ability to dive in lol. I didn't know that small part that made me see most of it as quite tasteless and slightly irresponsible would later snowball and make me find most of what fashion embodies quite.. garbage-y? demeaning?. When I look at most of it.. it just feels that way, and when they add toys/games at the stores, it makes me wonder if they think or just know that their clientele has to be pampered like that, like a dumb and rich compulsive shopper with the mind of an infant (specifically a football player, trafficker, celebrities, escorts w/ oligarchs, all that).
Anyway, I like The Row stores.. you can tell they're few, they have some soul. Paul Smith's Berlin store is also cute in that museum/gallery gift shop kind of way. Also loved the Chanel Toronto store, it reminds me of the 'fancy' department stores in 1930s LA (Westlake), I was looking at an old book of that recently. Glossier's stores are fun too.. if you're going to be overly designed, at least be cheeky about it.
Margiela stores look like hell.. same for CK (that's over though), and I don't even have to get into the pointless existence of the Celine stores but that f*cking little furniture..
Glad you've spared us from Louis Vuitton. So far.
Benn98
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Lmao! I saw your previous post earlier in the thread, and Tory's shop was actually the first one I looked up just to see what you were on about! My first thought - it must be housed in the Trump Tower? Has to be! It's just too gaudy for words. That's the same reason why I've avoided Ralph Lauren, LV, Coach and Gucci.....for now, hahahaha!!
Mulletproof, only a pleasure! It's so cool to see the amount of discussion and excitement which went on earlier in the thread. I know we'll probably never recreate that again because as with many things the moment has passed, but it doesn't stop us from at least keeping these threads alive with some content above all else. People may not comment, but they still pop in which shows there's some interest, I suppose. Magazines is still my landing page into TFS, but even I must admit that it gets a bit monotonous after a while. The stasis, mainly. And besides, design and fashion are such broad subjects to explore. Why stick to just one or two components of it?
In many of these shops, the design really surprised me. Some got it right as expected. Issey Miyake, obviously. I'm obsessed with that storefront. And I suspect the artwork changes with each collection? Rag & Bone too, such a quaint and cosy little space. Then there are a few dark horses like Glossier (which IMO is just perfection, everything just looks so on-brand, edible and feminine without being saccharine.) And finally some huge disappointments - Burberry under Bailey, and Westwood. Try to picture Westwood's punk-ish clothing and campaigns, then look at that generic, corporate shop, which probably wouldnt look out of place in Dubai. Such a clash. At this rate I'd rather she jumped on the same bandwagon as the pretentious minimalist squad (Rick, Virgil, Kanye, Demna, HLang) I do understand the appeal of minimalist decor though. It's easier for the clothes, regardless of season, to stand out. And for some brands it actually works. The sweeping lines at Acne Studios look pleasing on the eye. Very consumerist, yet still faintly arty.
The ones who made a strong impact on me are where the interior aligns with the brand aesthetic. Posh Erdem, wannabe MSGM, Pilotto and his prints, Pugh and his eternal darkness, and how Dries plays with pink (although I can't stand his lighting)
Lol, I dunno why Phuel always hated on Toronto (or was it Vancouver? What's the difference!
), because they have some really creative spots in general.......and that Chanel shop IS stunning. All the Chanel ones posted are really. Except maybe Hermès, which looks like the place to be for 80s Wall Street bankers.What do you mean Margiela stores look like hell? They've even added a slide in aluminium (which looks more like a meat processing plant to me
), and John tried to jazz it up with wicker accents which made zero difference to the clinical feel of the shop, lol.That yolky yellow CK store deserves a special place in hell (luckily the French got the tamer version), and there's probably a restaurant around your corner with identical decor as Jacquemus' much-hyped lemon cafe, but special props to the Rykiel team for one of the most innovative designs! It's really tragic what's happening to that brand, and I only mean in terms of legacy.
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Benn98
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Casa Loewe - London:
Since Jonathan Anderson took the creative reigns of Madrid-based leather house Loewe in 2013, he has cultivated a brand that encompasses not just intricately crafted, colourful and covetable clothing, but spans the art and design world too. The artistry of handmade craft, the skilled workmanship of global artisans – from Indian ribbon embroiderers, to patchwork-focused Sengalese weavers – and exhibitions, from Design Miami to Salone del Mobile in Milan, are all threads that weave into the world of Loewe.
Anderson himself is a renowned collector. Earlier this month, he was named a trustee of the Victoria and Albert Museum. In recent seasons, his shows and presentations for Loewe have centred around the role of an imagined collector, be it the minds behind the Signals London, the avant-garde 1960s art gallery that championed experimental and non-established artists, or a bibliophile infatuated by the works of Flaubert and Emily Brontë, or craftsman obsessed with colourful handmade pompoms.
Casa Loewe, the brand’s latest three floor flagship in Central London is a culmination of the curatorial strands of the brand’s universe. A tranquil yet exuberant environment, it brims with colour and texture, ready-to-wear, accessories and interiors pieces, and is populated with art and design objects, like the dreamt up eclectic Mayfair home of an art collector.
In terms of new brick-and-mortar retail spaces, Bond Street is booming. Alexander McQueen opened a Smiljan Radic-designed boutique on Old Bond Street at the start of the year, while Celine opened its doors just last week to its new Hedi Slimane-conceived menswear store. Both boutiques place focus on the lifestyle aspect of its brands. Celine’s gallery-inspired space is populated with totemic artworks by Eli Ping and Slimane-designed furniture, while McQueen’s naturalistic interior features a top floor experiential level, dedicated to roving exhibitions.
Cast concrete walls, wood panelling and linen curtains form the backdrop to Casa Loewe. The brand spent six years on nearby Mount Street before moving to this larger triple tier space, and its floors are connected by a breathtaking central staircase, hand built in Campaspero stone from Spain’s Valladolid region. Its steps appear to float in space using refined engineering and strong tensile steel, and circle around a cylindrical panoramic lift suspended in air, using a series of hidden cables.
Casa Loewe abounds with painting and sculpture, craft objects and furniture, which evoke the eclectic world of the house, and nod to its various narrative elements. A bulging blown glass table by Anthea Hamilton – who designed vegetable-inspired costumes for Loewe’s Tate Britain installation last year – sits on the women’s first floor. Downstairs on the menswear level, the space features oversized oak vessels by Ernst Gamperl, the winner of the inaugural 2017 Loewe Craft Prize. There’s a sense of hide and seek about the pieces on view, which interact with the array of sellable pieces on display. A Grayson Perry ceramic plate sits above a wall of sunglasses, while a Daniel Sinsel cement fondu, blown glass and fibre glass optical sculpture stares from a shelf of leather women’s boots. Intricate weaved baskets, showcased at Salone del Mobile earlier this month sit alongside quilts and leather accessories which the house is historically famed for.
The sublimity of Loewe’s clothing lies in the sense of discovery behind each of its pieces. An asymmetric collar, a flurry of feathers, an unusual pleat or trompe l’oeil effect all bring joy to the brand’s dedicated customer base. This sense of uncovering is the essence of the label’s store experience too. And as Casa Loewe will feature both a roster of artwork that will change over time, and a ground floor pop-up space, there’s plenty more room for retail realisation.
Wallpaper
Since Jonathan Anderson took the creative reigns of Madrid-based leather house Loewe in 2013, he has cultivated a brand that encompasses not just intricately crafted, colourful and covetable clothing, but spans the art and design world too. The artistry of handmade craft, the skilled workmanship of global artisans – from Indian ribbon embroiderers, to patchwork-focused Sengalese weavers – and exhibitions, from Design Miami to Salone del Mobile in Milan, are all threads that weave into the world of Loewe.
Anderson himself is a renowned collector. Earlier this month, he was named a trustee of the Victoria and Albert Museum. In recent seasons, his shows and presentations for Loewe have centred around the role of an imagined collector, be it the minds behind the Signals London, the avant-garde 1960s art gallery that championed experimental and non-established artists, or a bibliophile infatuated by the works of Flaubert and Emily Brontë, or craftsman obsessed with colourful handmade pompoms.
Casa Loewe, the brand’s latest three floor flagship in Central London is a culmination of the curatorial strands of the brand’s universe. A tranquil yet exuberant environment, it brims with colour and texture, ready-to-wear, accessories and interiors pieces, and is populated with art and design objects, like the dreamt up eclectic Mayfair home of an art collector.
In terms of new brick-and-mortar retail spaces, Bond Street is booming. Alexander McQueen opened a Smiljan Radic-designed boutique on Old Bond Street at the start of the year, while Celine opened its doors just last week to its new Hedi Slimane-conceived menswear store. Both boutiques place focus on the lifestyle aspect of its brands. Celine’s gallery-inspired space is populated with totemic artworks by Eli Ping and Slimane-designed furniture, while McQueen’s naturalistic interior features a top floor experiential level, dedicated to roving exhibitions.
Cast concrete walls, wood panelling and linen curtains form the backdrop to Casa Loewe. The brand spent six years on nearby Mount Street before moving to this larger triple tier space, and its floors are connected by a breathtaking central staircase, hand built in Campaspero stone from Spain’s Valladolid region. Its steps appear to float in space using refined engineering and strong tensile steel, and circle around a cylindrical panoramic lift suspended in air, using a series of hidden cables.
Casa Loewe abounds with painting and sculpture, craft objects and furniture, which evoke the eclectic world of the house, and nod to its various narrative elements. A bulging blown glass table by Anthea Hamilton – who designed vegetable-inspired costumes for Loewe’s Tate Britain installation last year – sits on the women’s first floor. Downstairs on the menswear level, the space features oversized oak vessels by Ernst Gamperl, the winner of the inaugural 2017 Loewe Craft Prize. There’s a sense of hide and seek about the pieces on view, which interact with the array of sellable pieces on display. A Grayson Perry ceramic plate sits above a wall of sunglasses, while a Daniel Sinsel cement fondu, blown glass and fibre glass optical sculpture stares from a shelf of leather women’s boots. Intricate weaved baskets, showcased at Salone del Mobile earlier this month sit alongside quilts and leather accessories which the house is historically famed for.
The sublimity of Loewe’s clothing lies in the sense of discovery behind each of its pieces. An asymmetric collar, a flurry of feathers, an unusual pleat or trompe l’oeil effect all bring joy to the brand’s dedicated customer base. This sense of uncovering is the essence of the label’s store experience too. And as Casa Loewe will feature both a roster of artwork that will change over time, and a ground floor pop-up space, there’s plenty more room for retail realisation.
Wallpaper
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