Target Only Seeking Short-Term Relationships with Designers

[kimair]

from wwd...thanks lucy!

Target Corp., the mass retailer that practically invented the long-term designer marriage, is now seeking only short-term affairs.

Stacia Andersen, president of Target Sourcing Services, said Sunday the retailer is unlikely to form another deal like the one due to expire at the end of this year with Isaac Mizrahi. Or, she said, in a shot at rival Kohl's Corp., like the one that department store chain has with Vera Wang.

Noting that designer brands account for only 5 percent of Target's apparel business, Andersen said, "We don't want to be as long-term as others" in designer partnerships.

Andersen acknowledged the breakup with Mizrahi, who is taking over the design helm for Liz Claiborne, may hurt Target's business when customers loyal to that brand can no longer find the products in Target stores, but "it was time for both of us to move on."

With the departure of Mizrahi, the retailer will concentrate on "in-and-out" relationships with designers to "create more excitement" on the sales floor, she said.

Target will focus on its Go International initiative of tie-ups with young designers, who have included Proenza Schouler, Luella Bartley, Patrick Robinson, Behnaz Sarafpour, Erin Fetherston and, most recently, Jovovich-Hawk. But even that strategy is changing for the latest line, which Target will design in-house.

Prices on the private label collection will range from $16.99 for a tank top to $49.99 for a textured dobby Anorak jacket.

Andersen also revealed Target is seeking sourcing alternatives to China among Pacific Rim and Central American countries.

"We continue to look for opportunities to do business with other countries," she said during a keynote speech at the fourth annual Retail and Luxury Goods Conference at Harvard Business School.

She cited potential apparel business in countries such as Vietnam, Thailand and Indonesia, while acknowledging that China, with its large labor pool and "relatively good" infrastructure, will always be a major Target supplier.

"We've always had a good business in Central America because of the lead time advantage," Andersen said. "If they could increase their raw material strategy, that would be helpful."

 

[Vkid123]

Can't say that i'm surprised at all by their new strategy of constantly changing who they collaborate with. It does seem like they change they have a new Go International designer every few months now.

 

[kahlilg]

She's right; it does make it more exciting to cycle in and out designers. I think it's a smart business move.

 

[ChrissyM]

thanks for the article kimair..

not really surprised by this..

now they don't have to find another designer who will have to sort of live up to what isaac mizrahi was doing..

what do they mean by the strategy changing for the newest line? is target designing a new line in-house to replace the mizrahi line, but not bringing on a big name to do it?
i find that line a little confusing...

 

[Tiffany7]

Some of the pieces in the private label look nice. Im interested to see it in person.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

thanks for the article kimair..

not really surprised by this..

now they don't have to find another designer who will have to sort of live up to what isaac mizrahi was doing..

what do they mean by the strategy changing for the newest line? is target designing a new line in-house to replace the mizrahi line, but not bringing on a big name to do it?
i find that line a little confusing...

The Go lines haven't been designed by Target. A third party has been designing the line under guidance from the collaborating designer. Target just distributed it until now.

 

[Tiffany7]

I think they are still going to do their GO lines having others design & then in between GO collections since they sell so fast they will have their private line.

 

[lucy92]

a lot of unanswered questions after reading this...

who is going to design target's work wear for women? (ie suits and business casual items) right now that's mizrahi's job.

i think they should have brought in another designer suitable for slightly older demographic while mizrahi's items are still on the floor....that way people will get used to it. ive noticed that mizrahi's space on the selling floor is smaller these days...

because target's is now the USA's second largest retailer does that mean that other retailers (ie macy's) might follow suit with short term relationships?
i think this might be a good idea actually.

 

[Tiffany7]

Im sad that Isaac is leaving. I really liked alot of his stuff.

 

[classic1908]

I'm one of those slightly older people (40s) who wore Isaac's Target stuff on occasion. When he leaves, that probably is the end of my apparel and sunglass shopping with that store (his sunglasses are reasonably priced, he offers the big Jackie Onassis-type glasses I like and since I lose them, I don't like spending a lot of money on them). The Go stuff is junior sizing and I'm a tweener.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

There is another designer who's interested in filling Mizrahi's vacancy and he/she is FAR more compelling than Mizrahi could ever be.

 

[Tiffany7]

WHO IS IT? Im excited to hear!

Have you guys seen the private label items?
I opened a topic for it so you can check it out & I think it might be in stores now or soon.

 

[softgrey]

mutter--SPILL IT!!!...
...

...

i have said it before...but i thought behnaz serapfour would have been perfect to fill the void left by isaac's departure...
they already have a relationship with her from her GO collection..
she designed all of barney's private label stuff before launching her own line-
most of which was career stuff...
she would be pretty much perfect imo...
i would have gone straight to her as soon as Isaac talked about leaving...

i guess i understand why they are trying something different though...
keeping things fresh, trying to avoid being stale...etc...


thanks for the info

 

[wheneveriwakeup]

The newest GO collection is rly wonderful, I think..
I love the high-tech, sportif feel of it...
This idea is very much in tune with Target's overall desires...
If the lifespan of the GO collections is too lengthy, customers may loose interest
all together...
The Isaac stuff did become rather stale rather quickly...
And yeah, it's mass-production at it's finest..
But I do love how each and every designer who has inked a deal
with Target has managed to keep their integrity and infuse
their overall design philosophy into their efforts w/ Target...
If only the quality/fit weren't so erratic...