The Business of Magazines #4

Discussion in 'Magazines' started by tFS Thread Manager, Sep 14, 2017.

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  1. magsaddict

    magsaddict Active Member

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    i think 6 covers is nothing to sneeze at - especially considering Naomi had two covers a year in 2001/2. If you look at the chronology, it's almost as if something happened after 2002 and British Vogue decided not to put her on the cover anymore?

    For any other British model, 6 British Vogue covers in 25 years is a fair amount, but when you factor in that her close friend and peer Kate Moss had 30+ covers in the same period, i don't think it's outrageous or uncalled for for Naomi to ask why. Still, Vogue Uk has given her the most covers by far, look at British Elle and Harper's during the same period - they barely gave her anything!
     
    #141 magsaddict, Nov 14, 2017
    Last edited by moderator sleb: Nov 14, 2017
  2. Lola701

    Lola701 Well-Known Member

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    To be fair, after 2002, Naomi started to become more of a tabloid personality than a model. She had a lot of bad press and her reputation was it worse. If you pay attention to it closely, Naomi didn't have that much campaigns or print work at that time here in Europe.
    She did some shows but that's it.
    Naomi didn't make it easy for people to work with her.
    When you have to deal with Diva attitude and the fact that she is always late...The choice is easily made.
    She is not the only supermodel in the world and Liya Kebede was maybe the most active black model in the world during that period.
    Naomi is more humble now.
     
    #142 Lola701, Nov 14, 2017
    Last edited by moderator salis5: Nov 14, 2017
  3. Benn98

    Benn98 Well-Known Member

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    Precisely! Something most likely did occur....she either beat the staff with her Blackberry, or she pulled her diva antics by arriving late and the shoot ended up cancelled. Naomi is not entirely innocent here and should actually not be used as an example. I wonder why American Vogue also never bothered to give her a cover, since she felt more 'at home' there? Because even though Anna was all about celebs from 2001 onwards, Kate still managed to book two OG covers.

    I think prime examples to be used here should be Liya, Joan, not exactly my cup of tea, but one cannot deny they were both powerhouses at their peak. They rivalled the likes of Natalia and Lara who got shoved down our throats by Alexandra's team.
     
  4. A.D.C.

    A.D.C. Well-Known Member

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    Liya is the most obvious exclusion here. She booked three US Vogue covers, one of them an only girl cover, and yet nothing from British Vogue.
     
  5. magsaddict

    magsaddict Active Member

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    I think Liya and Alek are the two biggest snubs by British Vogue, with the careers both have had there's no excuse.
     
  6. mathiaskatz

    mathiaskatz Active Member

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    Holy crud, just read that interview. What a trainwreck. The issue is beyond Naomi. 12 covers in 25 years is unacceptable!

    Here's how she's defending herself:
    - her son's grandfather was Robert Spike, a civil rights leader (she married into the Spike family), so obvi she can't be racist
    - "There's a million other actresses who I didn't put on the cover"
    - “You’re leading me down a path where I don’t really want to talk about who sells and who doesn’t sell." So black people don't sell I guess.
    - “I have never been somebody who’s box-ticked. I’m against quotas. I feel like my Vogue had the people in who I wanted it to. I didn’t look at what race they were. I didn’t look at what sex they were. I didn’t look at what age they were. I included the people I thought were interesting.” So she doesn't look at race, but somehow hired 50+ people and they just HAPPEN to be white.

    Other black celebrities that haven't had covers: Mel B, Thandie Newton, Sade, Naomie Harris, Gugu Mbatha-Raw
     
    #146 mathiaskatz, Nov 14, 2017
    Last edited by moderator karmar: Nov 14, 2017
  7. eizhowa

    eizhowa Active Member

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    Just out of interest, has anyone actually checked if white models sell better than black models? Surely there is some data out there.
     
  8. Benn98

    Benn98 Well-Known Member

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    I imagine it's a very complex question, Eizhowa. There are many factors which should be considered - the country, the time period, whether the audience with the most buying power is accustomed to diverse takes on beauty, how the cover is styled, who is on the cover etc etc. We all know 10/20 years ago the industry wasn't as diverse as it is now. So a Jessica Stam cover would've outsold a Liya one in 2006 despite the latter being more popular. I read somewhere that Liya's solo cover for US Vogue turned the worst sales in that decade. But I doubt it would be the same today. And yet it's Vogue's duty to lead and innovate, not follow or merely mimic what everyone is doing or what people want. That was Alexandra's mistake - toeing too much of a safe line, which I can also understand to a point. British Vogue is after all a very big edition.

    Naomi happens to be the black model with the most British Vogue covers, and I think that frequency was without a doubt due to her popularity. So it's highly likely she sold better than most white models. Being white didn't automatically guarantee you a spot on the cover either. Alexandra herself said readers preferred approachable looking girls, and wasn't keen on raven and redheads. That explains why Karen's low number, and Hilary Rhoda's absence.
     
  9. Benn98

    Benn98 Well-Known Member

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    I doubt we've seen the last of this senseless feud...:lol:

    And for some odd readon Financial Times posted images of the menu of the homely restaurant where they met Edward, and his £50 bill, not sure why. I hope it's not to show how 'down-with-the-people' he is.

    Source: Ft.com
     
    #149 Benn98, Nov 15, 2017
    Last edited by moderator Brandi06dance: Nov 15, 2017
  10. Benn98

    Benn98 Well-Known Member

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    Source: Ft.com
     
  11. Benn98

    Benn98 Well-Known Member

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    Source: NYtimes.com
     
  12. Benn98

    Benn98 Well-Known Member

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    Source: VanityFair.com
     
  13. tigerrouge

    tigerrouge don't look down

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    For a very long time, Vanity Fair has been a vehicle for the personality of its editor. The magazine has been powered by the oversized energies (and ego) of Tina Brown and Graydon Carter, and I find it hard to imagine otherwise.

    If cost-cutting is part of the exercise, I'm interested to know what sort of results they're expecting to see, and how long she'll get to achieve them.
     
  14. Benn98

    Benn98 Well-Known Member

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    That's what I'm thinking as well! This is a cost-cutting exercise. She sounds decent enough as an editor, but not very evolved. This magazine is far too immense for her. It's not just a celebrity tabloid, there's the political reporting, the large corporations, moneyed family intrigues, the incessant lawsuits. How will she manage all that?
     
  15. MON

    MON Well-Known Member

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    Happy for her. Though she has a tough job to fill in. The political reporting is what I enjoyed about VF. And hope she doesnt shy away from it
     
  16. cul8tr

    cul8tr Active Member

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    That's a really good question. Dont't get me wrong but I believe they've checked which model sells better and which one is not. It's a buisness and magazine need to be profitable. That's why they put Kate, Gisele or even Natalia instead of Naomi. She can complain as much as she wants but that's the way it is.

    Another thing is that everyone is calling Alexandra racist because she didn't use models of coulour. How many black models were used in French, Italian or even US Vogue? The black issue of VI has changed the way people were looking at models of coulour but in fact there was not so many of them having covers and big campaigns. You have to see the money first. If people are not ready to see black, asian models on the cover, they wont buy magazine. We can like it or not but that's the way it is.
     
    #156 cul8tr, Nov 15, 2017
    Last edited by moderator : Nov 15, 2017
  17. mathiaskatz

    mathiaskatz Active Member

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    Just because others do it doesn't make it okay. The more we defend this behavior, the more it'll happen. The black issue of VI was a risk, and it paid off cuz the issue sold out instantly. Alexandra had the power to take these risks but she didn't. And it would have been a lot less of a risk if she pushed for black models after the black issue of VI. She had about 300 issue, and the fact that she wasn't willing to take any risks for the sake of sales is not acceptable. Vogue should be always be moving forward and pushing boundaries.

    And how do you explain the fact that she hired 54 white people? She says "[she] included the people [she] thought interesting." So it seems she only found white people interesting.
     
  18. ivano

    ivano Well-Known Member

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    any news about the last L'Uomo???
     
  19. MissMagAddict

    MissMagAddict The future is stupid

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    SI & Anna even look alike :lol:
    [​IMG]
    source | us vogue dec 2017
    mydigitalcopy
     
  20. Benn98

    Benn98 Well-Known Member

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    It seems Vogue Paris are not having a good 2017 in terms of sales. Valentina Sampaio's cover earlier this year is not only their worst selling March cover in years, but it's also the worst selling issue since 2012. It turned around 99K in French and global sales. The rest of the months all average around 100K, which is a slight decrease from last year. Luckily Anna Ewers gave them their best selling issue for this year, which incidentally outsold the Instagirls September cover last year.

    I'm keen to see how the fake fur cover sold, because June/July was a measly 146K.....
     
    #160 Benn98, Nov 17, 2017
    Last edited by moderator Brandi06dance: Nov 17, 2017

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