The Business of Magazines

[Les_Sucettes]

^ I can definitely believe it. For those desperately wanting Edward out of UK Vogue...what are you honestly expecting in his place? He has swiped a brush of American paint over the already bland, MOR content that Alexandra left in her wake but he brings a lot of clout, and no one can deny that.

Make no mistake, whichever bland editor takes over UK Vogue next will drag it back further into the pedestrian, white-washed hole that Shulman dug it into during her tenure. You really think someone fashion-forward will take it over? Ha!

I do not understand this reasoning, why shouldn't people desire a bad editor to be replaced? Alexandra's last years have been bad (so have been Anna's and she's still there), but she was once good, her brand was simply spent and the magazine was in desperate need of new blood.
On the other hand, Edward has been a disappointment from day one, where are the good years? he clearly does not think UK Vogue in itself has a tradition that is worth working on, do you seriously think UK Vogue readers are expecting for someone "fashion-forward" to take over? His brief was not that difficult, the magazine sells itself, he was expected to make UK Vogue more representative of what fashion and this is after all a lifestyle magazine, what the world, and in particular Britishness is now, not to trample in it's identity. He seems to be under the impression, and that makes him as disconnected as Schulman, that applying American veneer will impress the UK readership (it doesn't) while at the same time can serve as some sort of way to remind CN that the has clout to move in other spheres.

 

[Les_Sucettes]

^ I can definitely believe it. For those desperately wanting Edward out of UK Vogue...what are you honestly expecting in his place? He has swiped a brush of American paint over the already bland, MOR content that Alexandra left in her wake but he brings a lot of clout, and no one can deny that.

Make no mistake, whichever bland editor takes over UK Vogue next will drag it back further into the pedestrian, white-washed hole that Shulman dug it into during her tenure. You really think someone fashion-forward will take it over? Ha!

I do not understand this reasoning, why shouldn't people desire a bad editor to be replaced? Alexandra's last years have been bad (so have been Anna's and she's still there), but she was once good, her brand was simply spent and the magazine was in desperate need of new blood.
On the other hand, Edward has been a disappointment from day one, where are the good years? he clearly does not think UK Vogue in itself has a tradition that is worth working on, do you seriously think UK Vogue readers are expecting for someone "fashion-forward" to take over? His brief was not that difficult, the magazine sells itself, he was expected to make UK Vogue more representative of what fashion and this is after all a lifestyle magazine, what the world, and in particular Britishness is now, not to trample in it's identity. He seems to be under the impression, and that makes him as disconnected as Schulman, that applying American veneer will impress the UK readership (it doesn't) while at the same time can serve as some sort of way to remind CN that the has clout to move in other spheres.

 

[8eight]

I was just thinking about Alexi Lubomirski and how he is now THE go to photographer... the Mario ‘incident’ has really made his career go stella, but it must be weird as he was his assistant!
Magazines clearly still want a glossy Mario style shoot which isn’t remotely cool but v mainstream.
It’s also interesting that there aren’t many new talents doing this photography... everyone wants to be raw and shoot on film etc

No news , just musing...

 

[8eight]

I was just thinking about Alexi Lubomirski and how he is now THE go to photographer... the Mario ‘incident’ has really made his career go stella, but it must be weird as he was his assistant!
Magazines clearly still want a glossy Mario style shoot which isn’t remotely cool but v mainstream.
It’s also interesting that there aren’t many new talents doing this photography... everyone wants to be raw and shoot on film etc

No news , just musing...

 

[Deleted member 130879]

Magazines clearly still want a glossy Mario style shoot which isn’t remotely cool but v mainstream.

Every country has at least 3 top photographers doing the "glossy" look. This is the norm for most catalogues and what most photographers learn at photography school. He definitely got points for being Mario's assistant, it opened the doors to his clients. But you can get photographers doing this style pretty much everywhere, just look at Vogue India, Mexico, Máxima, Elle...

Magazines and photographers relationships are nothing but a deep web of social connections. The parties and the people you know tend to outweigh your talent (unless you are doing something absolutely exquisite like Roversi and get the attention of someone).

 

[Deleted member 130879]

Magazines clearly still want a glossy Mario style shoot which isn’t remotely cool but v mainstream.

Every country has at least 3 top photographers doing the "glossy" look. This is the norm for most catalogues and what most photographers learn at photography school. He definitely got points for being Mario's assistant, it opened the doors to his clients. But you can get photographers doing this style pretty much everywhere, just look at Vogue India, Mexico, Máxima, Elle...

Magazines and photographers relationships are nothing but a deep web of social connections. The parties and the people you know tend to outweigh your talent (unless you are doing something absolutely exquisite like Roversi and get the attention of someone).

 

[GivenchyAddict]

Two Veteran American Vogue Editors Are Stepping Down

NEW YORK, United States — The top of Vogue’s masthead is getting a major shake-up. Two of the magazine’s behind-the-scenes fashion cornerstones, who have helped define Vogue’s style for decades, are reducing their duties at the title.

Sources told BoF that Phyllis Posnick, executive fashion editor since 1987, and Tonne Goodman, fashion director since 2000, are stepping down, much in the same way former creative director Grace Coddington did in 2016 when she took on a part-time role with the magazine. Both Posnick and Goodman are expected to continue to work with Vogue in some capacity.

In addition, West Coast editor Lisa Love is leaving Vogue to take on a new corporate role. She joined the magazine in 1990.

A Condé Nast spokesperson declined to comment.

The changes could signal the beginning of a new era at Condé Nast’s fashion bible.

Along with contributing style director Camilla Nickerson, Posnick, Goodman and Coddington have been the image-makers behind modern American Vogue’s glamorous celebrity covers, surreal editorials and cinematic shoots for more than 20 years.

In the last several years, Condé Nast has implemented several rounds of layoffs and restructuring to cut costs in the face of fast-declining print advertising revenues. Until now, Vogue has largely avoided senior editorial leadership changes.

Recently, Vanity Fair’s Radhika Jones and Glamour’s Samantha Barry — who are less than one year in at their editor-in-chief roles — have replaced many of their predecessors’ (Graydon Carter and Cindi Leive, respectively) senior staff members. At GQ and Allure, where Michelle Lee took the helm at the end of 2015, fashion teams have been slimmed down.

Similar changes have been expected at Vogue, which saw some layoffs this spring. But the dominant speculation has been about if and when Wintour, who is also artistic director of the publishing house, might depart. Representatives for Condé Nast and chief executive Bob Sauerberg have denied these rumours.

In the last six months of 2017, Vogue’s average single-copy sales decreased 46 percent year-over-year to 109,000, according to the Alliance for Audited Media. In the same period, total subscriptions increased 6 percent to 1.1 million.

In addition to navigating the challenges of a declining print business, Vogue has also had to contend with the loss of three of its major photographers — Bruce Weber, Mario Testino and Patrick Demarchelier — who were publicly accused of sexual misconduct in the New York Times and the Boston Globe in early 2018. Condé Nast has suspended its relationships with them.

Posnick, who joined Vogue a year 31 years ago, is known for her close relationships with photographers, particularly Irving Penn and Steven Klein. During her tenure, she has focused on the often surreal and provocative single images that accompanied Vogue’s health and beauty features as well as celebrity portraits. Her images have been published in two books, “Extreme Beauty” in 2009 and “Stoppers: Photographs from My Life at Vogue” in 2016.

Goodman, who was the vice president of advertising at Calvin Klein in the early 1990s, was the fashion director at Harper’s Bazaar before joining Vogue in 2000. The stylist is known now for the more than 100 celebrity cover shoots she has produced, as well as countless editorials.

business of fashion

 

[GivenchyAddict]

Two Veteran American Vogue Editors Are Stepping Down

NEW YORK, United States — The top of Vogue’s masthead is getting a major shake-up. Two of the magazine’s behind-the-scenes fashion cornerstones, who have helped define Vogue’s style for decades, are reducing their duties at the title.

Sources told BoF that Phyllis Posnick, executive fashion editor since 1987, and Tonne Goodman, fashion director since 2000, are stepping down, much in the same way former creative director Grace Coddington did in 2016 when she took on a part-time role with the magazine. Both Posnick and Goodman are expected to continue to work with Vogue in some capacity.

In addition, West Coast editor Lisa Love is leaving Vogue to take on a new corporate role. She joined the magazine in 1990.

A Condé Nast spokesperson declined to comment.

The changes could signal the beginning of a new era at Condé Nast’s fashion bible.

Along with contributing style director Camilla Nickerson, Posnick, Goodman and Coddington have been the image-makers behind modern American Vogue’s glamorous celebrity covers, surreal editorials and cinematic shoots for more than 20 years.

In the last several years, Condé Nast has implemented several rounds of layoffs and restructuring to cut costs in the face of fast-declining print advertising revenues. Until now, Vogue has largely avoided senior editorial leadership changes.

Recently, Vanity Fair’s Radhika Jones and Glamour’s Samantha Barry — who are less than one year in at their editor-in-chief roles — have replaced many of their predecessors’ (Graydon Carter and Cindi Leive, respectively) senior staff members. At GQ and Allure, where Michelle Lee took the helm at the end of 2015, fashion teams have been slimmed down.

Similar changes have been expected at Vogue, which saw some layoffs this spring. But the dominant speculation has been about if and when Wintour, who is also artistic director of the publishing house, might depart. Representatives for Condé Nast and chief executive Bob Sauerberg have denied these rumours.

In the last six months of 2017, Vogue’s average single-copy sales decreased 46 percent year-over-year to 109,000, according to the Alliance for Audited Media. In the same period, total subscriptions increased 6 percent to 1.1 million.

In addition to navigating the challenges of a declining print business, Vogue has also had to contend with the loss of three of its major photographers — Bruce Weber, Mario Testino and Patrick Demarchelier — who were publicly accused of sexual misconduct in the New York Times and the Boston Globe in early 2018. Condé Nast has suspended its relationships with them.

Posnick, who joined Vogue a year 31 years ago, is known for her close relationships with photographers, particularly Irving Penn and Steven Klein. During her tenure, she has focused on the often surreal and provocative single images that accompanied Vogue’s health and beauty features as well as celebrity portraits. Her images have been published in two books, “Extreme Beauty” in 2009 and “Stoppers: Photographs from My Life at Vogue” in 2016.

Goodman, who was the vice president of advertising at Calvin Klein in the early 1990s, was the fashion director at Harper’s Bazaar before joining Vogue in 2000. The stylist is known now for the more than 100 celebrity cover shoots she has produced, as well as countless editorials.

business of fashion

 

[Khabeer]

Anna is next

 

[Khabeer]

Anna is next

 

[Benn98]

And so it begins! Without a doubt the end of an era. I would still have had interest in the magazine without Anna if Tonne and Phyllis stayed on. It would have been somewhat interesting to see how they'd function under a new vision. More exciting, less exciting? Guess that's a done deal now.

Tonne's departure will be a huge knock for this magazine. I don't think there's another stylist, except Jessica Diehl maybe, who can pull an exclusive high profile celebrity shoot together. And I'm not just talking in terms of the styling we see on the pages. To coax the celeb, coax the EIC, coax the designer, keep the shoot under tight wraps. All that requires more than just the ability to pair a belt with a dress. Madonna's upcoming VI shoot so blatantly leaked by the team themselves.....something like that would never happen under Tonne because she understand the power of exclusivity. I suppose she's probably the one stylist at US Vogue who truly felt Testino and Demarchelier's ban. These two, despite their appalling reputation, was truly the most easiest and accommodating photographers even among the new guard.

 

[Benn98]

And so it begins! Without a doubt the end of an era. I would still have had interest in the magazine without Anna if Tonne and Phyllis stayed on. It would have been somewhat interesting to see how they'd function under a new vision. More exciting, less exciting? Guess that's a done deal now.

Tonne's departure will be a huge knock for this magazine. I don't think there's another stylist, except Jessica Diehl maybe, who can pull an exclusive high profile celebrity shoot together. And I'm not just talking in terms of the styling we see on the pages. To coax the celeb, coax the EIC, coax the designer, keep the shoot under tight wraps. All that requires more than just the ability to pair a belt with a dress. Madonna's upcoming VI shoot so blatantly leaked by the team themselves.....something like that would never happen under Tonne because she understand the power of exclusivity. I suppose she's probably the one stylist at US Vogue who truly felt Testino and Demarchelier's ban. These two, despite their appalling reputation, was truly the most easiest and accommodating photographers even among the new guard.

 

[Benn98]

In other news, Anna has already began to supplement her earnings, or public profile beyond Vogue. Fashion's Tracy Flick wants in on the booming ugly sneaker market!

Anna Wintour Takes On Sneakers

The editor is collaborating with Nike for some new kicks.

By Evan Clark on July 12, 2018



Anna Wintour has taken on the sneaker business.

The Vogue editor in chief and Condé Nast artistic director linked with Nike’s Air Jordan brand for a sneaker collaboration, according to the magazine.

Nike has tweaked two versions from its long lineup and stamped them with “AWOK” on the sole, which stands for “Anna Wintour OK” and is used by the editor to sign off on pages in Vogue before publication.

Besides and “AWOK” sticker last year, this is the first product the editor has put her name on.

It’s a strange activewear start for Wintour. Not only is the collaboration being introduced just as the world’s soccer — or football — obsession peaks with the World Cup finale this weekend. Besides, the editor is known as a big tennis fan. To try to connect the dots, Wintour made a video that shows her sitting at her desk, shooting a small basketball into a plastic hoop on the wall each time she completes one of her editorial duties. The spot ends with the editor walking off after a series of perfect shots.

The retro high-tops come in red or white leather. Air Jordan 1 versions will be available at Hirshleifers, Kith, Nordstrom x Nike, and North America Jumpman doors in Toronto and Chicago on July 21. After that, they will be sold on the Nike Snkrs app across North America.

Another version of Air Jordan 3 SEs will be available Sept. 7 and nod to her signature Chanel tweed suits and sunglasses.

The story on Vogue.com also indicated that there’s business to be had in the deal, noting, “Vogue will receive a portion of proceeds from the sale of these sneakers.”

Source: WWD.com

 

[Benn98]

In other news, Anna has already began to supplement her earnings, or public profile beyond Vogue. Fashion's Tracy Flick wants in on the booming ugly sneaker market!

Anna Wintour Takes On Sneakers

The editor is collaborating with Nike for some new kicks.

By Evan Clark on July 12, 2018



Anna Wintour has taken on the sneaker business.

The Vogue editor in chief and Condé Nast artistic director linked with Nike’s Air Jordan brand for a sneaker collaboration, according to the magazine.

Nike has tweaked two versions from its long lineup and stamped them with “AWOK” on the sole, which stands for “Anna Wintour OK” and is used by the editor to sign off on pages in Vogue before publication.

Besides and “AWOK” sticker last year, this is the first product the editor has put her name on.

It’s a strange activewear start for Wintour. Not only is the collaboration being introduced just as the world’s soccer — or football — obsession peaks with the World Cup finale this weekend. Besides, the editor is known as a big tennis fan. To try to connect the dots, Wintour made a video that shows her sitting at her desk, shooting a small basketball into a plastic hoop on the wall each time she completes one of her editorial duties. The spot ends with the editor walking off after a series of perfect shots.

The retro high-tops come in red or white leather. Air Jordan 1 versions will be available at Hirshleifers, Kith, Nordstrom x Nike, and North America Jumpman doors in Toronto and Chicago on July 21. After that, they will be sold on the Nike Snkrs app across North America.

Another version of Air Jordan 3 SEs will be available Sept. 7 and nod to her signature Chanel tweed suits and sunglasses.

The story on Vogue.com also indicated that there’s business to be had in the deal, noting, “Vogue will receive a portion of proceeds from the sale of these sneakers.”

Source: WWD.com

 

[Miss Dalloway]

Hahah lol at the Nike collabo, and how ugly are those!! AWNO!!

But so it starts... I expect Anna to make a public announcement in coming days. Kinda excited to see the shaping of the new team to come.

 

[Miss Dalloway]

Hahah lol at the Nike collabo, and how ugly are those!! AWNO!!

But so it starts... I expect Anna to make a public announcement in coming days. Kinda excited to see the shaping of the new team to come.

 

[caioherrero]

So sad about Tonne

 

[caioherrero]

So sad about Tonne

 

[MON]

Gay gods let it be #TeamAnyoneButEdward #NoVogue

 

[MON]

Gay gods let it be #TeamAnyoneButEdward #NoVogue