The Business of Magazines

https://nypost.com/2019/04/04/newhouse-family-quietly-unveils-conde-nast-succession-plan/

Newhouse family quietly unveils Condé Nast succession plan
Keith J. Kelly
1-2 minutes
A succession plan has quietly been unveiled by the billionaire Newhouse family that owns Condé and its parent company, Advance Publications.

Steven Newhouse — long believed to be the heir apparent to the media giant — is now the co-president of Advance Publications, sharing the title with his 90-year-old father and patriarch Donald Newhouse.

The new title marks the first official sign of a succession plan since the passing of his uncle, S.I. Newhouse Jr. on Oct. 1, 2017.

It also means Steven Newhouse, 62, beats out his first cousin, once removed, Jonathon Newhouse, 66, for control.

“The main decision maker is Steven Newhouse,” said one source with knowledge of the family’s business. “He’s really the center of the whole thing.”

Donald oversees the newspaper wing that includes papers such as the Star-Ledger in Newark, Staten Island Advance, Cleveland Plain Dealer and New Orleans Times-Picayune. Until his passing, Donald’s brother, Si, was in charge of the magazines.
 
^Who said she got fired? Her departure sounds voluntary to me....

Anne-Marie Curtis: 15 Years Of ELLE

BY TEAM ELLE
04/04/2019

As we bid an incredibly fond farewell to Team ELLE's Editor-in-Chief and erstwhile Fashion Director of more than a decade, we are taking the opportunity to celebrate the inspiring reign of Anne-Marie Curtis at ELLE UK. Here we share some of her most powerful moments.

1 The Slick Woods Cover

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Pregnant Slick Woods made headlines as the cover of ELLE’s groundbreaking Sustainability Issue, which had an impact in the fashion industry as the first luxury magazine to dedicate its September issue to environmentalism.

2 Anne-Marie Curtis with Nicolas Ghesquière

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Anne-Marie Curtis counts her work with Nicolas Ghesquière for the March 2019 issue of ELLE, starring Michelle Williams, as one of the personal highlights of her career.

‘I first worked with Nicolas a few years back when I styled an incredible Louis Vuitton project with ELLE International and the legend that is Jean-Paul Goude,’ and a beautiful friendship grew from there.


3 The Cara Delevingne Cover

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For Anne-Marie’s debut cover as Editor-in-Chief, she chose the British icon, supermodel and actor Cara Delevingne. Bold, joyful and a real fashion moment – the cover went viral as soon as it hit social media and set the bar for all covers to come.

4 When Anne-Marie Met Taylor Swift

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When ELLE shot the world’s leading pop star for the April 2019 ‘Music Issue’ in London, the pair bonded over their love of pop and that yellow Gucci dress.


5 The Chrissy Teigen Cover

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Whether she's calling out President Trump, busting beauty taboos or generally being hilarious, Chrissy Teigen is the best thing about the internet, and Anne-Marie knew it, so put her on the ELLE January 2019 cover.

6 When AMC Met FLOTUS

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The work day doesn’t get much better than an afternoon with the world’s most popular and inspiring woman crush, First Lady Michelle Obama. Anne-Marie sat down with Obama to talk fashion, politics and her book ‘Becoming’ in New York, ahead of the First Lady’s record-breaking book tour.

7 The Stormzy Cover
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Platinum-selling rapper, Brit award-winner, Glastonbury headliner - Stormzy is making history on his own terms. And so, Anne-Marie asked him to bring together a group of those that inspired him most.

8 AMC and Erdem Moralioglu

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Anne-Marie and longtime friend Erdem share a special bond: he designed her wedding dress.

9 The Alicia Vikander Cover

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Oscar-winning actor Alicia Vikander graced the cover of ELLE UK's April 2018 issue, shot in London and styled by none other than Anne-Marie. After the shoot, Anne-Marie and Alicia went to a nearby pub to celebrate with a tequila.

10 When AMC met Prince Charles

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Anne-Marie and Prince Charles share a passion for creating a more sustainable future. Needless to say, they had much to talk about when the two met at White City last year.

11 The Winnie Harlow Cover
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The face of now – Winnie Harlow – was Anne-Marie’s May 2018 cover star. The Toronto native was one of the most recognisable faces on the catwalk, with 3 million Instagram followers, but what mattered most to Anne-Marie was that she boldly changed the conversation around beauty, helping to broaden the industry’s once-narrow standards.

12 AMC and DVF

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Diane von Furstenberg inspired hundreds of women as a keynote speaker at 2018's ELLE Weekender event, where she took to the main stage to discuss her life in fashion with Anne-Marie.

13 The Karl Tribute Cover

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The fashion industry titan’s iconic Chanel shows were among Anne-Marie’s most memorable moments on the runway show circuit, which is why in 2019 she commissioned a special, limited-run Karl tribute cover.

14 ELLE Around The World

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This picture is best summed up in Anne-Marie's own words: 'It’s fair to say I’ve had more than a few ‘pinch me’ moments over my career as a fashion editor – whether it’s been finding myself at an awe-inspiring location for a shoot or watching a particularly amazing show. But when I was tasked to work with legendary photographer Jean-Paul Goude on a major collaboration with Nicolas Ghesquière and Louis Vuitton, to feature in every ELLE around the world, it was a ‘pinch me’ moment of epic proportions – not simply professional, but personal.'

15 Anne-Marie At The ELLE List Party

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In 2018, Anne-Marie launched The ELLE LIST – a celebration of the next generation of game-changers and hell-raisers who were reframing the world of fashion, beauty, culture, politics and technology – and inspiring the ELLE woman. The event was held at Spring in London's Somerset House and Anne-Marie wore a dress by one of the List winners, Richard Quinn, on the night.

Elle UK
 
What I'd like to know is why her Elle started out so well - but then seemed to lose steam as the months went by.

We had a vibrant relaunch with a series of striking covers that seemed to promise a return to strength for UK Elle on the newsstand... but that all faded away into a very average product.

Did she personally lose enthusiam for the role of magazine editor in the current media environment? Was she not permitted to continue the vision she certainly seemed to have for the title at the start? After a while, was she just biding her time for a better offer doing something else?
 
What I'd like to know is why her Elle started out so well - but then seemed to lose steam as the months went by.

We had a vibrant relaunch with a series of striking covers that seemed to promise a return to strength for UK Elle on the newsstand... but that all faded away into a very average product.

Did she personally lose enthusiam for the role of magazine editor in the current media environment? Was she not permitted to continue the vision she certainly seemed to have for the title at the start? After a while, was she just biding her time for a better offer doing something else?


I think editors face a lot of pressure from the big heads,and sometimes that can shut down their willing to do new things, the creativity, etc....It's not always about that they don't have a vision, most of the times i think it's the big bosses don't let them do it properly, because they just want to see numbers very fast....

it's sad that she's gone....
 
Karin Swerink is said to have left Vogue NL and is now the EIC of LINDA.Magazine.

Choices.

Can someone explain why anyone will leave Vogue for Linda? Unless Linda is a bigger magazine (which I’m assuming cause Karin [along the lines of] said that she could not pass upon said opportunity.
 
Karin Swerink is said to have left Vogue NL and is now the EIC of LINDA.Magazine.

Choices.

Can someone explain why anyone will leave Vogue for Linda? Unless Linda is a bigger magazine (which I’m assuming cause Karin [along the lines of] said that she could not pass upon said opportunity.
Linda is a bigger title. I guess it’s like the Dutch version of Oprah’s O magazine.
 
Looks like Marie Claire and Conde Naste really cleaned house - they got rid of beauty editor Erin Flaherty. : :ermm: :cry:

I've been following her writing since the 90's.
 
Linda is a bigger title. I guess it’s like the Dutch version of Oprah’s O magazine.

Thanks for the info! It really does seem like a bigger title. The current EIC had access to Michelle Obama. I mean if that’s not a feat (calm down republicans) I don’t know what is?
 
I think editors face a lot of pressure from the big heads,and sometimes that can shut down their willing to do new things, the creativity, etc....It's not always about that they don't have a vision, most of the times i think it's the big bosses don't let them do it properly, because they just want to see numbers very fast....

it's sad that she's gone....

Its a mainstream fashion magazine which people buy at a train station or supermarket and maybe the team forgot that and tried to make it 'too cool' and 'edgy'.

Personally I think it was over designed and although I loved some of what they were doing, i think the great general public don't want Slick Woods shot from below, or a collage of Taylor Swift as a cover.
 
The Repurposing of a Vogue Editor
By Karin Nelson

April 9, 2019

After almost 20 years at the magazine, Tonne Goodman is cutting loose. Her memoir will be published next week.

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Tonne Goodman at home in Greenwich Village.Daniel Arnold for The New York Times

Tonne Goodman has a mantra for when things start to get a little messy: “This is happening for a reason.” She is known for saying it on fashion sets when a model calls in sick or a runway look is stuck in customs.

And also when far more serious situations arise, like when she was diagnosed with breast cancer at the age of 44. She finds it reassuring because, as she explained, whatever then happens is some kind of fate, and in that lies mystery and curiosity. Often, it leads you on a better path.

Certainly, Ms. Goodman whispered the mantra aloud last summer when it was decided, by the powers that be, that she would surrender her role as fashion director of Vogue, where she had worked for nearly 20 years, and become a contributing editor — a growing trend, these days, in the struggling magazine industry. Without a doubt, she has found herself on a curious new path.

“My overriding feeling is this is exciting,” she said, seated on a white slipcovered couch in her Greenwich Village apartment, where she has lived for two decades. But her “inner feeling,” she said, is something like fear.

Dressed in her crisp, unwavering wardrobe of white Levi’s, Italian driving loafers and a silk Charvet scarf wrapped precisely around her neck, Ms. Goodman cuts a rather cool figure. From afar, she is the reserved, aloof foil to the colorful Grace Coddington, another Vogue editor. In practice, though, she is “the nicest” of the magazine’s editors, as many of those who have worked with her attest.
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Ms. Goodman's memoir, “Point of View.”

While at Vogue she is known for styling her subjects in a classic, clean-cut manner — “the practical woman,” as she put it — Ms. Goodman said that she loves “to do crazy things.”

Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, who assisted Ms. Goodman for four years at Vogue before becoming the style director of Garage magazine, said: “She’s quiet and not bombastic and wears a uniform every day, but Tonne changed this industry and the way Americans look at fashion. Tonne is rad. She is the definition of radical.” And in this new phase of her life, Ms. Goodman, 66, seems eager to reveal as much.

Cue her forthcoming book, “Point of View,” which features, on an opening page, a full-frontal of Ms. Goodman, from her modeling days.

Sam Shahid, the book’s art director and a longtime friend, sneaked the nude in, and for a while tried to hide it from her, but Ms. Goodman loved the idea. “One assumes this is just another fashion editor’s book, and it’s not,” she said.

Granted, it is filled with one gorgeous and iconic image after another, stretching from her early days as a fashion reporter for The New York Times through her seminal stints as vice president for advertising at Calvin Klein and fashion director of Harper’s Bazaar, to her tenure at Vogue, during which she styled more than 150 covers.

It is also quite personal, revealing pictures and anecdotes from her days growing up on the Upper East Side, the daughter of an artist and a surgeon, both of whom — not surprisingly — were attractive and stylish. Her mother wore a floor-length circle skirt for dinner every night, paired with cashmere and pearls. Her father would change into a green velvet smoking jacket. According to family lore, the photographer Alfred Eisenstaedt proclaimed them the handsomest couple in New York.

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Ms. Goodman styled Amber Valletta with wings for a 1993 shoot by Peter Lindbergh for Harper's Bazaar.

There are also striking photos of Maarten, a Dutch sailor with whom Ms. Goodman ran off to sea for four months at the age of 17; and Rob, a troubled waiter she fell madly for and followed to the desert.

She does not include images of Bailey Gimbel, the man she married and with whom she had two children, though she does mention their split. In fact, she touches, sparingly, on several searing aspects of her life, among them her bout with cancer, which coincided with the end of her marriage; and the time she feared she was having a miscarriage while in Paris for the collections.

The photographer Mario Testino, whom she didn’t know well at the time, drove her in his Fiat Cinquecento to the hospital, where they learned that her son, Cole, now 25, was alive and well. Mr. Testino became his godfather.

“It’s all part of my fabric,” she said of including such intimate details. “The reason any photo shows up is because of what I experienced.” She recalled one particularly emotional picture, shot by Peter Lindbergh during her Harper’s Bazaar days. It features Amber Valletta running through the city wearing a set of wings.

“I was pregnant with Cole at the time,” said Ms. Goodman, who also has a daughter named Evie. “This was my angel.”

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Ms. Valletta, photographed by Steven Klein and styled by Ms. Goodman for Vogue in 2008.Steven Klein

When it came to the book’s cover, Evie, an artist, balked at the idea of using the very classic and minimalist David Sims image of Daria Werbowy in a Calvin Klein gown. “She thought it was too obvious,” Ms. Goodman said. “That it didn’t reflect all of me.” Alas, Evie’s racier pick, a Steven Klein photo of Ms. Valletta looking like a 1960s housewife who is up to no good, was nixed.

“It’s actually one of my favorite pictures,” Ms Goodman said. “But it didn’t look like me.”

If Ms. Goodman’s creative output is, in part, a reflection of her life, it appears that she is having a ball these days. With Ms. Karefa-Johnson, she styled a rollicking evening wear story called “Black Cotillion” for Garage magazine.

“We had these divine girls and a brilliant hair and makeup team,” Ms. Goodman said. “It was just a blast.”

She also stepped in front of the lens — something she was never comfortable doing, even as a model — for the spring fashion issue of New York magazine. In it, she posed alongside Ms. Karefa-Johnson, whom she recently referred to on Instagram as her best friend, each of them charmingly wearing clothes that the other had chosen.

Then, during this past fashion week, Ms. Goodman popped up on the runway for the first time since the summer after her sophomore year in high school, taking a turn for CDLM, the buzzy new label from Chris Peters, one half of the Creatures of the Wind twosome. She wore a blanket scarf and cowboy boots, which had a higher heel than what she prefers to wear. Still, she was happy to be there.

“I wanted to support them,” she said of the label, all of it made from repurposed material, whether recycled or dead stock. “And the collection was so chic.”

Ms. Karefa-Johnson believes this is just the beginning. “It’s kind of like how Stella got her groove back,” she said. “Everyone wants a piece of Tonne, and she holds the power of entering the fashion scene in a whole new way.”

As for what’s next, Ms. Goodman is tossing around a host of ideas. Among them, a second book, called “Killed,” with all the fabulous shots that never made it into Vogue; and a sustainable capsule collection for Calvin Klein.

“I feel there is a huge opportunity for a large brand to embrace sustainability in a way that is uncompromising,” she said. “And Calvin is the definition of American fashion. Period. The end.”

And, she added, with a smile, “I think it would be really fun.”

source | nytimes
 
Anyone knows or have the info on how spanish magazines perform? in tern of sells?
Thanks
 
I'll wait for her debut issue before I pass judgement because I quite like UK Cosmo's covers. It's not as sexy as the brand's signature, it's actually somewhat conservative. More like a Red hybrid. It would be interesting to see how her Elle will sit next to Justine's Harper's.
 
I'll wait for her debut issue before I pass judgement because I quite like UK Cosmo's covers.

I also like what she does with UK Cosmo's covers - they follow a predictable formula, but it's a formula that probably has a strong commercial appeal, which I won't knock.
 

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