Melancholybaby
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The Business of Magazines
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IndigoHomme
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F*cking Young! will launch a womenswear magazine called "VEIN" this september → http://vein.es/
Srdjan
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Attica Media Serbia launches Serbian edition of Harper's Bazaar. Premiere issue, being the October 2014 issue, will appear on the September 22nd. Editor-in-chief is Petar Janosevic while the fashion editor is Gordana Manojlovic who worked as stylist at Elle Serbia.
GIVENCHYlover
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Rumor: 'CR Fashion Book' The End?
fashioncopious.typepad
Thefrenchy
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^I can't say that I will miss CR if this turns out to me true. May it serve as a reality check for Roitfeld.
Miss Dalloway
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^ Same here, seen it coming from the first issue, ultimate vanity project!
LANZO_358
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^Well it's no surprise if it turns out to be true.
In echoing what's already been said, a lot of these 'magazines' from these charismatic editors are nothing but huge vanity projects, with hardly a distinguishing or consistent editorial plan and voice - at least in my opinion.
Take away their lettered mastheads and MANY of these magazines start to resemble each other - from Grand's Love to Roitfeld's CR Book - it's the same pedantic, templated, unfresh approach. Which in the end, doesn't really resonate with the discriminating and erudite reader. I think Love's saving grace is that they're backed by Condé Nast. So they should be counting their lucky stars.
In echoing what's already been said, a lot of these 'magazines' from these charismatic editors are nothing but huge vanity projects, with hardly a distinguishing or consistent editorial plan and voice - at least in my opinion.
Take away their lettered mastheads and MANY of these magazines start to resemble each other - from Grand's Love to Roitfeld's CR Book - it's the same pedantic, templated, unfresh approach. Which in the end, doesn't really resonate with the discriminating and erudite reader. I think Love's saving grace is that they're backed by Condé Nast. So they should be counting their lucky stars.
Benn98
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Quote:
Lupita Nyong’o Vogue Cover 2014 Sales: Looking ‘Really Great’ Despite Source Interlink Closure
By Christopher [email protected]@ibtimes.com
on July 11 2014 3:02 PM
If you saw Lupita Nyong’o’s remarkably visceral performance in last year’s “12 Years a Slave,” you know she deserved every accolade thrust upon her in the months that followed, including the Oscar for Best Supporting Actress and the title of People magazine’s most beautiful woman in the world.
More recently, the actress landed yet another highly coveted designation: Vogue magazine cover girl. Nyong’o joins a rarefied group of black women who have graced the cover of Anna Wintour’s iconic fashion glossy. Since 1974, when Beverly Johnson became the first black woman in history to appear on the cover of U.S. Vogue, the magazine hasn't regularly featured women of color, and even fewer non-American women of color have appeared as cover models. (Nyong’o was born in Mexico but raised in Kenya.)
Lupita Nyong'o Vogue Magazine
Lupita Nyong'o on the cover of Vogue magazine, July 2014. Conde Nast Publications
Retail sales for high-profile Vogue covers never fail to attract attention, and according to preliminary sales data for July, Nyong’o is more than holding her own against some of the magazine’s most notable heavyweights. In fact, she may just be saving Wintour & Co. from one of the most catastrophic summers the magazine industry has ever faced.
The reason why is a little complicated, but bear with us: In late May, the second-largest magazine wholesaler in the country, Source Interlink Distribution, announced abruptly that it was closing its doors for good. Its demise removed a major link in a complex retail ecosphere, the repercussions of which are still being felt. Sources say nearly every large publisher experienced a serious interruption in distribution as national retailers like Barnes & Noble Inc. (NYSE:BKS), Wal-Mart Stores Inc. (NYSE:WMT) and Walgreen Co. (NYSE:WAG) were left scrambling to hammer out deals with new distributors. Some magazine titles saw their retail circulation numbers cut in half overnight.
Gil Brechtel, president of the Magazine Information Network (MagNet), a research firm that tracks retail magazine sales, said about 30 percent of the total magazine industry was affected by Source Interlink’s closure, as stacks of magazines sat undelivered in printing plants and warehouses. “It was a total mess,” he told International Business Times.
And yet despite what might fairly be described as Magocalypse 2014, retail sales for Nyong’o’s Vogue cover are actually up 1.5 percent compared to the same period last year. That’s according to a sample of early retail sales figures obtained by IBTimes from MagNet. The July issue of Vogue has been on sale for only a little over two weeks, but Brechtel called the early figures “really great considering the disruption in service.”
It’s even more impressive considering the industrywide decline of single-copy sales that has been dogging magazine publishers since the digital revolution. According to MagNet, average single-copy sales of Vogue are down 22.5 percent over the past six months, despite notable high sellers like the April issue featuring Kim Kardashian and Kanye West. That issue, despite wide derision, sold an estimated 250,000 retail copies. In contrast, the May issue, which featured Emma Stone, sold 180,000 retail copies, according to the Alliance of Audited Media.
Vogue is published by Condé Nast Publications, a privately held company that doesn’t share internal sales data. A spokeswoman for the company declined to comment on the extent to which its single-copy sales have been affected by Source Interlink’s closure, but the publisher had an extensive relationship with Source Interlink, according to Jerry Lynch, president of the International Periodical Distributors Association. “It’s difficult to get your arms around what the impact is,” Lynch said in a phone interview. “Retail is a complicated environment with a lot of moving parts.”
Retail sales account for only a small percentage of Vogue’s total circulation. Like most popular titles, it sells the vast majority of its copies through paid subscriptions, and according to AAM, it had a total circulation in May of about 1.2 million.
Still, it's clear that a cover girl like Nyong’o can still generate impulse buys at the checkout counter. Nyong’o, who has dual Kenyan-Mexican citizenship, is the first African woman to appear on the cover of Vogue since Liya Kebede, the Ethiopian-born model who has graced the cover three times. Maybe if sales continue to hold steady, we’ll see more.
Rachael Battista, a spokeswoman for the AAM, said sales figures for Lupita Nyong’o’s cover issue will be available in early September, so check back then for a full report.
And if you haven’t seen “12 Years a Slave” yet, well, what are you waiting for?
Source: International Business Times
Lupita Nyong’o Vogue Cover 2014 Sales: Looking ‘Really Great’ Despite Source Interlink Closure
By Christopher [email protected]@ibtimes.com
on July 11 2014 3:02 PM
If you saw Lupita Nyong’o’s remarkably visceral performance in last year’s “12 Years a Slave,” you know she deserved every accolade thrust upon her in the months that followed, including the Oscar for Best Supporting Actress and the title of People magazine’s most beautiful woman in the world.
More recently, the actress landed yet another highly coveted designation: Vogue magazine cover girl. Nyong’o joins a rarefied group of black women who have graced the cover of Anna Wintour’s iconic fashion glossy. Since 1974, when Beverly Johnson became the first black woman in history to appear on the cover of U.S. Vogue, the magazine hasn't regularly featured women of color, and even fewer non-American women of color have appeared as cover models. (Nyong’o was born in Mexico but raised in Kenya.)
Lupita Nyong'o Vogue Magazine
Lupita Nyong'o on the cover of Vogue magazine, July 2014. Conde Nast Publications
Retail sales for high-profile Vogue covers never fail to attract attention, and according to preliminary sales data for July, Nyong’o is more than holding her own against some of the magazine’s most notable heavyweights. In fact, she may just be saving Wintour & Co. from one of the most catastrophic summers the magazine industry has ever faced.
The reason why is a little complicated, but bear with us: In late May, the second-largest magazine wholesaler in the country, Source Interlink Distribution, announced abruptly that it was closing its doors for good. Its demise removed a major link in a complex retail ecosphere, the repercussions of which are still being felt. Sources say nearly every large publisher experienced a serious interruption in distribution as national retailers like Barnes & Noble Inc. (NYSE:BKS), Wal-Mart Stores Inc. (NYSE:WMT) and Walgreen Co. (NYSE:WAG) were left scrambling to hammer out deals with new distributors. Some magazine titles saw their retail circulation numbers cut in half overnight.
Gil Brechtel, president of the Magazine Information Network (MagNet), a research firm that tracks retail magazine sales, said about 30 percent of the total magazine industry was affected by Source Interlink’s closure, as stacks of magazines sat undelivered in printing plants and warehouses. “It was a total mess,” he told International Business Times.
And yet despite what might fairly be described as Magocalypse 2014, retail sales for Nyong’o’s Vogue cover are actually up 1.5 percent compared to the same period last year. That’s according to a sample of early retail sales figures obtained by IBTimes from MagNet. The July issue of Vogue has been on sale for only a little over two weeks, but Brechtel called the early figures “really great considering the disruption in service.”
It’s even more impressive considering the industrywide decline of single-copy sales that has been dogging magazine publishers since the digital revolution. According to MagNet, average single-copy sales of Vogue are down 22.5 percent over the past six months, despite notable high sellers like the April issue featuring Kim Kardashian and Kanye West. That issue, despite wide derision, sold an estimated 250,000 retail copies. In contrast, the May issue, which featured Emma Stone, sold 180,000 retail copies, according to the Alliance of Audited Media.
Vogue is published by Condé Nast Publications, a privately held company that doesn’t share internal sales data. A spokeswoman for the company declined to comment on the extent to which its single-copy sales have been affected by Source Interlink’s closure, but the publisher had an extensive relationship with Source Interlink, according to Jerry Lynch, president of the International Periodical Distributors Association. “It’s difficult to get your arms around what the impact is,” Lynch said in a phone interview. “Retail is a complicated environment with a lot of moving parts.”
Retail sales account for only a small percentage of Vogue’s total circulation. Like most popular titles, it sells the vast majority of its copies through paid subscriptions, and according to AAM, it had a total circulation in May of about 1.2 million.
Still, it's clear that a cover girl like Nyong’o can still generate impulse buys at the checkout counter. Nyong’o, who has dual Kenyan-Mexican citizenship, is the first African woman to appear on the cover of Vogue since Liya Kebede, the Ethiopian-born model who has graced the cover three times. Maybe if sales continue to hold steady, we’ll see more.
Rachael Battista, a spokeswoman for the AAM, said sales figures for Lupita Nyong’o’s cover issue will be available in early September, so check back then for a full report.
And if you haven’t seen “12 Years a Slave” yet, well, what are you waiting for?
Source: International Business Times
Benn98
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Quote:
Catching Up With Fashion Media Group's Stephen Gan
from WWD issue 08/07/2014
By Alexandra Steigrad
GAN’S PLAN: The last few days have been eventful for Stephen Gan, the soft-spoken cofounder and president of Fashion Media Group, which publishes CR Fashion Book, V magazine, VMan and Visionaire. His split with business partner Cecilia Dean had become public, but Gan, who also serves as creative director for Hearst Magazines’ Harper’s Bazaar, said the breakup “wasn’t a sudden one.
“For those in the know, it wasn’t a surprise but a clarification of the way we worked,” Gan said of his relationship with Dean.
Dean, he said, would continue working on Visionaire, which he called “more of an art book,” and he would work on V, VMan and CR, the glossy he oversees with Carine Roitfeld. Dean and James Kaliardos, both of whom cofounded Fashion Media Group with Gan, will expand Visionaire into film, digital, exhibitions and apparel, according to Gan.
As for V and CR, Gan denied recent reports that the magazines would fold or go digital only.
“It’s totally wrong and it’s mudslinging,” he said, musing that the rumors were probably from a “disgruntled ex-employee from CR.
“There’s a changing of the guard. It’s that time of year. People are on their way out. It’s not the first time I’ve seen it,” he said, referring to staffers who recently left the company for other jobs.
Gan also denied that Hearst picks up the printing costs for CR — a deal Roitfeld was rumored to make with executives at the publishing company when she signed to become Harper’s Bazaar’s global fashion director. A Hearst spokeswoman and said the publisher had nothing to do with CR.
“CR has been a prosperous venture for me,” Gan said. “It’s an experiment that’s paid off from Day One.”
To back that up, Gan said September advertising pages totaled 154, up from 148 pages last September. CR pulled four more pages than its big launch issue in 2012, which carried 150 pages. Gan offered that V’s September issue has 156 ad pages, a 50 percent increase over last year. VMan, too, had a better September, with 68 pages of ads, versus 63 a year ago.
In order to grow its youngest magazine, CR — which Gan admitted is in “need of a boost” digitally — the title is relaunching its Web site on Aug. 28. The print version of CR will go on sale on Sept. 4, while V and VMan go on sale Sept. 10 and Sept. 18, respectively.
Although he acknowledged the difficulty that the overall magazine industry is facing, Gan said each book has a 70 percent sell-through on the newsstand. “For larger magazines, there’s a 30 percent sell-through,” he noted. “It’s very promising that seven out of 10 of our magazines end up in someone’s home.”
Drilling down further, CR will print 65,000 copies for the newsstand, while V will circulate 60,000 and VMan will circulate 55,000. Gan also gets revenue from subscriptions and single-copy sales bought online. Gan revealed that V has roughly 9,500 print subscribers and 40,500 digital subscribers. In 2014, according to a spokeswoman, V’s total circulation is 100,000, CR’s is 65,000 and VMan’s is 90,000.
Source: WWD
Catching Up With Fashion Media Group's Stephen Gan
from WWD issue 08/07/2014
By Alexandra Steigrad
GAN’S PLAN: The last few days have been eventful for Stephen Gan, the soft-spoken cofounder and president of Fashion Media Group, which publishes CR Fashion Book, V magazine, VMan and Visionaire. His split with business partner Cecilia Dean had become public, but Gan, who also serves as creative director for Hearst Magazines’ Harper’s Bazaar, said the breakup “wasn’t a sudden one.
“For those in the know, it wasn’t a surprise but a clarification of the way we worked,” Gan said of his relationship with Dean.
Dean, he said, would continue working on Visionaire, which he called “more of an art book,” and he would work on V, VMan and CR, the glossy he oversees with Carine Roitfeld. Dean and James Kaliardos, both of whom cofounded Fashion Media Group with Gan, will expand Visionaire into film, digital, exhibitions and apparel, according to Gan.
As for V and CR, Gan denied recent reports that the magazines would fold or go digital only.
“It’s totally wrong and it’s mudslinging,” he said, musing that the rumors were probably from a “disgruntled ex-employee from CR.
“There’s a changing of the guard. It’s that time of year. People are on their way out. It’s not the first time I’ve seen it,” he said, referring to staffers who recently left the company for other jobs.
Gan also denied that Hearst picks up the printing costs for CR — a deal Roitfeld was rumored to make with executives at the publishing company when she signed to become Harper’s Bazaar’s global fashion director. A Hearst spokeswoman and said the publisher had nothing to do with CR.
“CR has been a prosperous venture for me,” Gan said. “It’s an experiment that’s paid off from Day One.”
To back that up, Gan said September advertising pages totaled 154, up from 148 pages last September. CR pulled four more pages than its big launch issue in 2012, which carried 150 pages. Gan offered that V’s September issue has 156 ad pages, a 50 percent increase over last year. VMan, too, had a better September, with 68 pages of ads, versus 63 a year ago.
In order to grow its youngest magazine, CR — which Gan admitted is in “need of a boost” digitally — the title is relaunching its Web site on Aug. 28. The print version of CR will go on sale on Sept. 4, while V and VMan go on sale Sept. 10 and Sept. 18, respectively.
Although he acknowledged the difficulty that the overall magazine industry is facing, Gan said each book has a 70 percent sell-through on the newsstand. “For larger magazines, there’s a 30 percent sell-through,” he noted. “It’s very promising that seven out of 10 of our magazines end up in someone’s home.”
Drilling down further, CR will print 65,000 copies for the newsstand, while V will circulate 60,000 and VMan will circulate 55,000. Gan also gets revenue from subscriptions and single-copy sales bought online. Gan revealed that V has roughly 9,500 print subscribers and 40,500 digital subscribers. In 2014, according to a spokeswoman, V’s total circulation is 100,000, CR’s is 65,000 and VMan’s is 90,000.
Source: WWD
I have some questions about the business of fashion magazines and I think this is the best thread to discuss this.
So I was wondering whose "right" is it to decide what will the person on the cover be wearing? As I read many replies in the recent vogue Paris thread I found out that if you advertise a lot in a certain magazine(I mean Louis Vuitton is an advertiser in every fashion and lifestyle related magazine at Condé Nast) there's a higher chance that the label's clothes will be on the cover...Are they obliged to put Louis Vuitton clothes on the cover because they've(LV) put loads of ads in the magazines? What if they don't do that? Are the advertisement going to be pulled out from the magazine? Am I allowed to ask this?
Thanks.
So I was wondering whose "right" is it to decide what will the person on the cover be wearing? As I read many replies in the recent vogue Paris thread I found out that if you advertise a lot in a certain magazine(I mean Louis Vuitton is an advertiser in every fashion and lifestyle related magazine at Condé Nast) there's a higher chance that the label's clothes will be on the cover...Are they obliged to put Louis Vuitton clothes on the cover because they've(LV) put loads of ads in the magazines? What if they don't do that? Are the advertisement going to be pulled out from the magazine? Am I allowed to ask this?
Thanks.
Miss Dalloway
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Benn98 Thanks for those articles, so happy Lupita sold well, not surprised someone like Stone sold so little, that is truly not enough for May!
GIVENCHYlover
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^^ It's all about respect.
180,000 copies? God, it's Vogue!!!
180,000 copies? God, it's Vogue!!!
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Miss Dalloway
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^ Yeah, that is Allure level! I think its because no matter how lovely, talented and down to earth Emma is, she just isn't an exciting cover subject. Also having been on Vogue already, its not an original choice either. But it seems they had an overall bad half of the year! Wonder how much others sold, we know Rihanna bombed on March, but wonder if Lena worked for Feb? And if Blake worked better for August.....
GIVENCHYlover
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Yes but these are small numbers for Vogue and for America. Why is InStyle so popular? Maybe because the clothes are very expensive in Vogue?
Instyle March 2012 800k vs Vogue March 2012 400k
Instyle March 2012 800k vs Vogue March 2012 400k
Thefrenchy
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From what I understand, it's basically politics. I'm guessing it's some kind of unofficial agreement between the magazine's EIC (or higher up) and the brand. The brand agrees to buy ad space in the magazine (which means $$$$ for the magazine/publishing group), and in exchange the magazine agrees to feature the brand's products prominently. There is no reason for the magazine to play smart and refuse to proceed to that kind of thing as it'd mean pass on a big amount of money, and the brand could refuse to lend it their products etc. And it's not just for covers. If you pay attention, pretty much every brand that buys ad space in a magazine is featured in the editorials.
All of which ensures no new designers can break through unless they have major financial backing. We will all grow old and die and there will still be the same Chanel, LV, Gucci..etc on every cover and in every editorial.
Thefrenchy
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^Great point. Terribly sad when you think about it, but I can't see it change anytime soon (or ever, to be completely honest).
D
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^ what's most sad is that out of the hundreds of designers that show collections during fashion week most won't ever even get featured in editorials so were stuck seeing Prada guccir etc recycled over and over. Even someone like Victoria Beckham doesn't get editorial credits unless it's a profile featuring her.
Deleted member 116957
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Probably because every sort of office with a waiting room subscribes to it. I swear to god, every dental office gets this magazine!
