The Business of Magazines

[SpeakThatJDunn]

Anyone know how Jourdan Dunn's British Vogue cover sold for February? Did a black model decrease sales?

 

[Miss Dalloway]

^No figures were released, i wonder as well.

And thanks for posting the Angelica Cheung article, she always comes across as intelligent, thoughtful, and very knowledgeable about her job.

 

[Benn98]

Bugger!! Sorry for the double post, actually meant to post a Tonchi interview. Anyway, it's on The Cut.

 

[Miss Dalloway]

^ Just read it, wow at the Nicki Minaj story!! Who does she think she is, you have Pat and you disrespect her like that? Unbelievable!!!

 

[MON]

oh my goodness Nicki! You had the honor of Ms. Pat McGrath to do your makeup and you ruined it... I do not understand.

 

[t-rex]

Aaron de Mey not McGrath was the makeup artist.

He remembers working with Francesco Vezzoli and Nicki Minaj in 2011: “She had five hours of makeup with Aaron de Mey. And then she said, 'Can I go into the bathroom?' just before we went on set. And she goes into the bathroom with a friend — or what we think is a friend — and half an hour later we are knocking at the door. And she comes out with completely different makeup because [the friend was a makeup artist]. Our hair and makeup people walked out. What you see is the magic of digital retouching.”

Here is the interview for people http://nymag.com/thecut/2015/06/stefano-tonchi-on-ws-future-and-caitlyn-jenner.html

 

[Miss Dalloway]

^ Unless they edited i read it wrong, thanks. Its still super disrespectful, Aaron worked for hours on her make up! Celebs!!!

 

[MON]

The original article said Pat McGrath... Anyway, regardless! Whoever it is, she should've respected the time, effort, and craft of the makeup artist the same way she expects her and her craft to be respected. Respect begets respect honey.

 

[Benn98]

^ Unless they edited i read it wrong, thanks. Its still super disrespectful, Aaron worked for hours on her make up! Celebs!!!

I was just as amazed when I read it. She doesn't even have the stature to warrant that. When she pull shenanigans like these with an esteemed fashion magazine, can you imagine what goes on behind the scenes at the likes of Allure and Marie Claire?

In the Vogue: The Editor's Eye documentary, Anna briefly mentioned something to the effect that the reason why Tonne does most of the celeb features was because she can actually handle difficult celebrities. One can read a lot between the lines. On the flip side you have the ones with actual merit that's so humble about the experience. Gwen's mother apparently cried when she heard Gwen booked the cover, and Anne couldn't stop gushing throughout her Jan 09 shoot with Testino.

 

[Benn98]

It seems Dutch Vogue shot some athletes (Football's Anouk Hoogendijk, hockey's Naomi van As, and swimmer Ranomi Kromowidjojo), but canned the shoot. So the athletes took to Twitter. I do agree with them though. They're not models, so they probably weren't compensated for their time.



Translation: @NLVogue Athletes (oa @ranomikromo and I) 1/2 day unpaid for your work then cancel #rude #vogue #boycot publication



Karin apparently responded saying the pictures weren't up to scratch...

 

[Miss Dalloway]

^ Oooh, that is rather rude! And its not as if Vogue Netherlands is this bastion of producing amazing shoots, i do wonder if the photos were that bad.

Thanks for the translation.

 

[MON]

Lol imagine how insulting it is for some subpar magazine to actually waste your time.

 

[Deleted member 45369]

I actually respect them for not running something they thought wasn't very good. This illustrates the problem with shooting celebrities. They demand that the pictures get published regardless of quality. I was just on a thread the other day where an old Stella Tennant cover try for British Vogue was posted. It was just that a "try" the outcome wasn't all that great and the magazine moved in another direction. One more reason to choose models over celebs. Asking for a boycott just because your pic didn't make to print is ridiculous.

 

[eizhowa]

^But athletes aren't pretending to be models or great beauties like a lot of other celebrities. They are just fit, healthy humans.

I think it is acceptable to cancel a shoot if the people involved are well informed of the possibility, of course I would assume this was all in their contract...

I would be interested to see just how "bad" these pictures were

 

[Benn98]

Apparently American Vogue reshoot 30% of their published celebrity features, no wonder they work so far ahead. Now a reshoot may mean a completely new overhaul: styling, setting etc. I personally feel they should've reshoot these athletes if the initial shots were so bad, they clearly would've obliged.

 

[Miss Dalloway]

^ In the past it was a nightmare for celebs and their PRs, and while an honor to get the call to cover Vogue, everyone knew how hard Anna was to please. Unless Wintour adored the first shoot, it was very often asked of a celeb to do it again. When Paltrow was on the cover of Sept 1999 cover, she did a two day shot, and Anna didn't like a single photo, so they had to do it again. She also made Sandra Bullock redo her cover shoot in the 90s AND even in 2006, she hated the results of her first cover shot, so Sandra was asked to do it again.

Sky was the limit back then at CN, these days budgets are more tight.

 

[Benn98]

Probably the most perplexing one for me was this one:

http://forums.thefashionspot.com/showpost.php?p=10466453&postcount=1

VS

http://forums.thefashionspot.com/showpost.php?p=10659673&postcount=173

 

[MON]

But that's reflective of the photographer and the team right? I mean the team conceptualizes the shoot and the photographer is tasked to capture and execute the concept right? So isn't it more hassle to do a reshoot (on the part of the celeb) when the fault is not entirely yours? Aren't celebs tasked to do this and that (jump, walk, twirl, smile) and post processing is done by the photographer's team.. so if Anna happens to not like the shoot, all blame is pointed at the photographer. I get it if the cover is yours (by all means I'd do 5 reshoots if it needed be).. but if it's just for a feature...

It makes me wonder though, if reshoots still occur, HOW ON EARTH did Dakota Johnson's cover made it to print? Are budgets that tight that a disaster like that was allowed?

^Cover wise, M&M did well, but with the editorial, Mario Testino captured the real essence of the Shape Issue.

 

[Benn98]

Perhaps the reasons for reshooting differs case by case. I imagine the main obstacles would be the availability of the celebrity and the setting. Who knows whether the actress will be in town, shooting somewhere remote, or busy with promo work? And yet, the magazine need to be able to draw the line somewhere. They probably cannot justify binning a shoot with Sienna Miller in Italy, or Kirsten Dunst in Versailles?

I found another one (Vogue clearly does this a lot
http://forums.thefashionspot.com/showpost.php?p=6939953&postcount=95

compared against the cover editorial...

http://jennydontbehasty.com/2013/05/walk-the-line-2005-vogue-shoot/

So Annie probably shot the initial cover with dark hair, and Anna, being the perceptive businesswoman that she is, knew that a blonde Reese would be an easier sell.

 

[RanThe]

Speaking of re shoots. Here is an article about J. Lo having a cover back in the late 90s.

http://www.mtv.com/news/1431401/jennifer-lopez-passes-on-reshooting-vogue-cover/

source: mtv.com