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The Years with Graydon

“This is the best job you’re ever going to have.”

David KampSeptember 7, 2017 12:01 pm
Oh, bittersweet day: the Grexit is upon us. Among those of us who have worked with Graydon Carter for a long time, the thought has lingered uncomfortably in the back of our minds that he might someday snap shut his laptop, pull on his Anderson & Sheppard overcoat, and get on with the rest of his life, leaving Vanity Fair behind. But acknowledging this possibility isn’t the same as living the reality. So it’s with some sadness and shock that we face the truth—that Graydon is departing from the magazine after 25 years—even while we’re happily aware that this won’t be the last we hear of him.

There are a lot of people at V.F. who have been with Graydon for all or most of his tenure, and some, like me, who have worked alongside him even longer. You don’t engender that kind of loyalty simply by offering a good benefits package and the chance to interview, say, Bruce Springsteen or Kerry Washington. Graydon has always possessed a showman’s charisma, a persuasive ability to make you believe, to use one of his stock lines, that This is the best job you’re ever going to have.

My time with him dates back 30 years, to 1987, when, having just completed my sophomore year of college, I reported for duty as a summer intern at Spy, the satirical New York monthly he had co-founded a year earlier with Kurt Andersen. I’d been smitten from afar with Spy’s visual audacity and reportorial approach to humor, but what struck me upon my arrival at the Puck Building, in lower Manhattan, where the magazine was then based, was how stylish an affair it all was. Humor is generally the province of trolls; think of the motley assemblage of unfortunates in the slovenly writers’ room on 30 Rock, and that gives you an accurate picture of the setting in which most good jokes and satire are created in America.

Yet Spy, though run on a shoestring, carried itself off as a sumptuously cast and art-directed screwball comedy: the staff attractive and uncommonly kempt, the offices smartly minimalist, and the magazine’s first anniversary celebrated with a black-tie blowout in the Puck Building’s ground-floor ballroom, the music provided by an all-female big band. Kurt and Graydon were equally responsible for Spy’s distinctive voice and funniness, but, as I was to discover, it was Graydon who was the pushier aesthetician, the one who imposed upon the place his own seductive, wonderful vision, gleaned from black-and-white movies, of how a magazine should look and comport itself. (Spy took its name from the magazine that Jimmy Stewart writes for in George Cukor’s The Philadelphia Story.) Later on, with greater resources at Condé Nast, Graydon would scale up these ideas and improve upon them. What if I threw the best party in Hollywood? What if we got the guy who lights the Rolling Stones’ concerts to do the lighting? What if we carved topiary into the shape of Oscar statuettes? What if everyone got a silver Zippo lighter with VANITY FAIR engraved upon it? He was an impresario as much as an editor, a job description he essentially created.

Graydon terrified me at first. He wore, even in the old days, elegant bespoke suits, exuded a sort of regal mystique, and was the first person I’d ever met called Graydon, which, to my provincial ears, was not actually a name. (I am from middle-class New Jersey.) He spoke like someone out of Kipling, referring to cigarettes as “gaspers” and a pee as a “squirt,” and requesting that I make more coffee by gently placing a hand on my shoulder and saying, “David, can you fetch me a cup of your world-famous java?”

But as I got to know Graydon better, I realized that our sensibilities dovetailed in many ways, not least in our love of language (especially as deployed by such comic masters as S.J. Perelman and P.G. Wodehouse) and our belief in the transcendent, unequaled brilliance of The Phil Silvers Show, otherwise known as Sergeant Bilko. We also shared an acute, almost misophonic intolerance of irritating words, both of us finding unbearable such tabloid-hack terms as eatery, boîte, and scarf (when used as a gastronomic verb). To this day, Vanity Fair circulates to its editors a list of Graydon-verboten words and terms, among them doff, eschew, hooker, celebrity, moniker, opine, and A-list. (I did once successfully plead for an exception regarding another banned term, jet set, on the grounds that I was writing, literally, about rich people who flew on the Concorde.)

I also found—and I am just one of many in this regard—that Graydon is a natural mentor figure. He was warm, familial, and paternal, already the father of three boys when I met him. (Years later, my wife and I would ask him to be the godfather of our boy, Henry.) He took us Spy kids to lunch, asked us about our interests and aspirations, and granted us the opportunity to have bylines in a glossy magazine before any of us were old enough to rent a car.

And if you put in a good effort, he didn’t forget you. Two years after that first internship, I graduated from college. My plan was to take a few weeks off and go on a cross-country road trip with my best friend from school, who lived in Washington, D.C. I was staying at this friend’s house when his mother, who was from Louisiana, beckoned from the kitchen, phone receiver in hand, quizzically asking, “Y’all know someone named Gray-dun Carter?” Graydon, in those pre-cellphone days, had tracked me down by calling my parents and scribbling down the number where I was staying. When I came to the phone, his voice was urgent. “David! Andy Warhol’s diaries have just come out, and they don’t have an index,” he said. “So we’re doing one. Come in on Monday—and be ready to work.” That was on a Friday. My graduation had been four days earlier. What I lost in terms of open-ended summer days and a taste of Fonda-Hopper freedom, I gained in terms of a career, and, over time, an enduring friendship.

Graydon, I eventually learned, was not some plummy munitions heir or the ninth baronet of Tufnell Park, but, rather, a middle-class Canadian who loved America, dreamed big, and moved to New York in his late twenties—a Warhol-like self-invention (with similarly provocative hair). I admire people with this capacity, to will into reality an idealized vision. Graydon has certainly done this with his homes, his offices, and the two restaurants he co-owns, which variously evoke the novels of Henry James, the cabanas of the Beverly Hills Hotel, the sculptures of Joan Miró, the supper club where Barbara Stanwyck sings “Drum Boogie” in Ball of Fire, and MI6’s Kingston, Jamaica, office circa 1962. (For the purest distillation of Graydon’s consciousness and subconscious—the Being John Malkovich-style portal into his brain—have dinner at the Waverly Inn on Bank Street, surrounded by Edward Sorel’s murals of such figures as Jackson Pollock, Anaïs Nin, James Baldwin, Dawn Powell, George S. Kaufman, and Fran Lebowitz. Order the chicken pot pie.)

But it’s at Vanity Fair where Graydon’s gift for endless invention has really served him well. For all the constants in his career—his Anglophilia, his Francophilia, his love of old cars, his curious obsession with the talent agents Sue Mengers and Mike Ovitz, two people who shouldn’t have ever registered in the public’s consciousness but now do in part because Graydon found them interesting—he has himself never been, professionally, a one-trick pony. His V.F. found its footing not as a Spy redux but as quite the opposite: a trusted, authoritative voice on business, starting with the New Establishment list (born in 1994); on the entertainment industry, starting with the Hollywood Issue and portfolio (born in 1995); and on culture, politics, and international affairs, through deep reporting and sharp commentary. He further developed V.F. into the most important showcase for photography since the heyday of Life, granting pages upon pages to, among others, Annie Leibovitz, Bruce Weber, Helmut Newton, Mark Seliger, Jonas Fredwall Karlsson, Snowdon, and Tim Hetherington—and capturing everything from the year’s crop of emerging actors to U.S. soldiers stationed in Afghanistan to the stars of the British stage to New York’s 9/11 first responders.

Like a lot of people as they get older, Graydon grew more serious over time. Through his wife, Anna, he became deeply invested in environmentalism, active in the Natural Resources Defense Council and the movement to curb climate change. His editor’s letters became a platform, in 2003, for his vocal, vigorously reasoned objections to the Iraq War, leading to the publication of his 2004 book, What We’ve Lost. More recently, his letters have been surgical dissections of his old Spy-magazine adversary Donald Trump, nominally and temporarily the holder of the most powerful office in the world.

But, as John Cleese has often said, we shouldn’t confuse seriousness with solemnity. Vanity Fair still fizzes with variety and fun, just as it did under Frank Crowninshield, the editor during the magazine’s original, Jazz Age run. In fact, Graydon has now outlasted Crownie, as he was known, by almost four years. In terms of influence and longevity, there are few editors in the annals of magazine journalism to match Graydon. Harold Ross and William Shawn at The New Yorker; Willie Morris at Harper’s; Harold Hayes at Esquire; Helen Gurley Brown at Cosmopolitan; Clay Felker at New York. He belongs in that pantheon. This is all the more remarkable when you consider that the aforementioned greats reigned in a time when a magazine was simply a bound stack of printed pages. Graydon has navigated V.F. through the so-called age of disruption, launching the successful Web vertical The Hive last year, building up robust profiles across social media, and playing the impresario at more events than ever. (He’ll be hosting the New Establishment Summit in Los Angeles next month—your last chance for a while to see him play live.)

In a neat bit of symmetry with my graduation-week experience in ’89, I got a call from Graydon during the languid week leading up to Labor Day, once again while I was putatively on vacation. Once again, I was to come see him, tout de suite. But this time, it was at his weekend house in Connecticut, not at the office. And the occasion was for him to deliver the news, gently, that he would soon be leaving Vanity Fair. It’s simply time, he said. He is 68, and he wants to move on while he’s still got plenty of life ahead of him for a third act.

Immediately after his departure from V.F., Graydon told me, he will spend six months living in France with Anna and the youngest of his five children, Isabella. He plans to use this time, he said, basically to recharge—to step outside of the hectic life he has been leading, wean himself off of screens, read more, calm down, maybe visit some cities in Northern and Eastern Europe that he’s never been to, and possibly fly somewhere warm “to see if kitesurfing is as easy as Obama makes it look.”

After that, in the latter half of 2018, he will return to his adopted, beloved home country to begin his next chapter, refreshed and ready to #MakeAmericaGraydon’sAgain.
source | vanityfair
 
I wonder what Graydon Carter leaving will mean for VF Fashion Editor Jessica Diehl. Her work is synonymous with VF for me.

Also sad to hear about Nylon. I actually bought a couple of issues within the last couple years, despite the fact that I feel I aged out of their demographic. It was one of the first magazines to help mold my interest in Fashion. I'll think just as fondly of their first few issues as I would Dutch, and The Face.

I also feel badly that the staff lost their jobs. It's getting tough out there.
 
I have question....not sure if this the right thread to do it...but when a magazine put a picture for their cover, is it right/legal to use a backstage pic? like the ones style.com magazine did years ago?.....Thanks for the help....
 
Jessica Diehl should be fine. Her styling for most part doesn't really impress me, it was only when she worked with the daring type of celebrities like Gaga, Taylor, Rihanna, Katy or the Hollywood covers when she really made a mark.
 
There has been speculation about this, but still sad to see her leave. However, I really hope the rumors that Glenda is also leaving, are confirmed soon! Shocked she has lasted this long, and can't wait to see her gone!
 
There has been speculation about this, but still sad to see her leave. However, I really hope the rumors that Glenda is also leaving, are confirmed soon! Shocked she has lasted this long, and can't wait to see her gone!

really? why??
 
Anyone know when is gonna be the issue celebrating the 150 years of Bazaar? December?
 
Haven't they been doing it in every issue so far?
 
Keep those shake-ups coming!!

The only component I felt US Elle, as one of the biggest fashion magazines in America, lacked was the fashion content. Otherwise everything else was exceptionally solid. Robbie Myers is leaving this magazine with a powerful identity and solid circulation. She may not have been an astute businesswoman or a power stylist, but the way she serviced her readers was certainly commendable. She really did put women above all else, even fashion. All of the best for her.
It seems we'll see another redesign for the US edition in due course as well. They've recently appointed their first fashion director, which should mean the content will be improved.

Now bring on Glenda's pink slip!!

Robbie Myers Is Leaving Elle Amid Rumors of More Departures at Hearst

Could Harper's Bazaar's editor in chief Glenda Bailey be next?

By Alexandra Steigrad on September 11, 2017

Another longtime editor in chief is exiting, this time Robbie Myers of Elle.

Myers circulated a memo on Monday, revealing her departure after 17 years at the helm. Her exit comes on the heels of another big departure in the magazine world: Graydon Carter’s exit from Vanity Fair over at Condé Nast. Myers has been rumored to be leaving the Hearst-owned title since earlier this year, as is Glenda Bailey, editor in chief at Harper’s Bazaar. Bailey’s exit is said to follow soon after.

A representative from Hearst did not return requests seeking comment.

In a note to staff, Myers said: “When I started in this role, it was with the best mission an editor can give herself: To open women’s appetites. And I surrounded myself with the smartest, most creative people, you, to both magnify what Elle stood for — strong, confident women who play a leading role in creating a culture that honors all of us — and expand the idea of what American beauty really looks like.”

The editor said she will continue consulting on the magazine, a common transitional move for many former editors in chief or longtime executives at Hearst.

Myers signed off her note with: “I wish you all the very best in your personal and professional lives, and I look forward to watching Elle continue to lead the fashion and cultural conversation for modern, dynamic women everywhere. As I’ve always said, choose kindness. And please know that I feel great affection and respect for each of you, and above all, gratitude.”

Although a successor has not been named, a handful of candidates have been floated, including Nina Garcia, Marie Claire’s creative director; The Cut’s Stella Bugbee, and possibly, Kristina O’Neill, the editor in chief of WSJ Magazine, who has been spotted in Hearst Tower in recent months. A former Bazaar editor, O’Neill has been connected more credibly to the Bazaar role once Bailey retires.

Source: WWD.com
 
Edwina McCann on Vogue Australia’s new look and shape

By James Manning
James Manning with Kruti Joshi
Posted on September 11, 2017

The life of a Vogue editor isn’t just about glamour. Take it from someone who lives it. That person is the editor-in-chief of Vogue Australia, Edwina McCann.

Mediaweek paid a visit to the NewsLifeMedia office recently to talk to McCann about the redesign of the monthly Vogue magazine. During the conversation, McCann mentioned that she was to catch a flight to Melbourne the next day for an event and then catch the last flight back to Sydney. She was to fly out to Melbourne again the day after to co-host an event.

When asked why not just stay in Melbourne overnight, McCann said mother duties called: “I will get the children to hockey about an hour away early on Saturday morning and then I will go back to Melbourne to host a very glamorous event.

“From not so glamorous to glamorous in one day,” McCann said.

Her glamorous event was the inaugural NGV Gala organised by the National Gallery of Victoria director Tony Ellwood and co-hosted by McCann. This setup mirrors New York’s Met Gala which is organised by The Metropolitan Museum of Art and co-hosted by the American Vogue editor Anna Wintour each year.

McCann hopes the NGV Gala becomes an annual event and grows in glamour and popularity. “It’s about improving the permanent exhibition of the NGV and allowing them to acquire significant couture pieces, for example,” she said.

According to McCann, fashion is a form of art. The fight to get more people to see the content creators playing in the space is fiercer than ever, she acknowledged. However, Vogue has cemented itself as an authority in fashion in Australia and worldwide. The brand’s strong footprint on social has given the Vogue Australia team room to work on making its print product more relevant to its readers today. The new squarer look of the magazine was launched with the September issue, which went on sale on 28 August 2017. The shape of the magazine was inspired by Vogue UK. The cover also takes more of a minimalistic approach with fewer cover lines.

The idea for the redesign was born from a conversation that McCann had with Harvey Norman CEO Katie Page, who McCann says is a “really great supporter of print publications and a fan of magazines”.

McCann recalled: “We were discussing how the print experience had evolved and changed as we’d all become more confident in digital and social. We finally were confident enough to understand that print needed to be print-ier.

“What we hadn’t done is address what print is and what it means to our brand.”

At one point in time, brands wouldn’t take any offence at being identified just as a magazine. Now, the print product is just one part of the description that defines what a brand does. This evolution has forced editors and publishers to rethink where their print product sits in the mix of their offerings. This is exactly what McCann did.

“I’ve been an editor at Vogue for over five years now. I was an editor of another magazine [Harper’s Bazaar Australia] prior to that, so I’ve been an editor for over eight years,” she said. “I’ve really seen the arrival and the rise of digital. The original feeling amongst editors once digital arrived was, ‘Well, we have to be more like digital.’ This was a global phenomenon.

“The [thought process was], ‘Nobody wants to read more than 500 words. Everything’s got to be snippety.’ It became quite frenetic in the book. I actually think we made a mistake. We didn’t understand that when people were consuming news or imagery in a digital format on the mobile they were also being constantly interrupted by their Instagram telling them that they’re not in Europe. Instead, they’re just sitting under a blanket on their couch, while all their friends are frolicking in Mycenae or something.”

To rectify this “mistake”, McCann has reintroduced long-form journalism on the pages of Vogue Australia. Along with this, she is also reinvesting in photographs that appear in the book. “We need to be curating the experience for the reader,” McCann said.

At 320 pages, the redesigned edition of Vogue Australia is one of the biggest issues of the magazine ever produced. The print product started showing early signs of success, even before it hit the stands. The magazine cracked $1 million in ad sales, making it “one of our most financially successful ever”, McCann revealed. “We haven’t done that since our 50th anniversary.” That was in the second half of 2009.

Source: Mediaweek.com.au
 
Rumours are that Nina Garcia has already been selected by Hearst to take over, and should be announced soon.
 
Nina Garcia? My goodness. Please. Stop. Her being mentioned on that list is insufferable as it is. I can't believe it. I refuse to believe it.

I wonder why Robbie left though? She had a great job, why leave? Oh well. I enjoyed her editorship though.

And I agree with Benn, fashion wise, it was weak. But the contents were really solid. It had direction. However, another component that lacked through the recent years was the identity of the magazine as shown in the covers. Each cover was either different or very reminiscent from each other. It's like they're playing it safe for their core.

However, if Glenda is rumored to leave, do you think Carine has a chance to snatch the title?
 
Here is the letter in full. Some say she'll in fact return after her break to take over a senior position at Hearst, much like the one Anna's got at CN.

Elle'c covers under Robbie was really unimpressive most of the times. I've never quite understood her obsession with grey backdrops. And she had ample opportunities to shape the cover aesthetic of the magazine with seasoned professionals. Michael Thompson, Liz Collins, these could've been the magazine's go-to photographers. But she missed out.

As for Glenda, I'm pretty sure she'll probably conclude the anniversary year, then leave. They've not decided on her successor yet, so maybe it is time for Carine to actually edit a mainstream magazine again. She should just lay off the wheeling and dealing.

Dear ELLE team:


As life highlights go, 2000 was a banner year for me: In May, I was appointed EIC of ELLE, and just a few months later, in August, I gave birth to my first child, Frankie. She’s 17 now, with one year left before heading to college—and despite the promise of a pony and behind-the-plate seats for the Yankees’ next opening day, she’s told me she’s going to school outside of New York City. In other words, in a year, she’s ready to start her own journey, with my 15-year-old son Michael just two years behind that. And as much as I love going to Paris for the collections (I’ve been 50-plus times—and that’s just for work), I want to spend the next seasons as available to my children as I can be, and so I take my leave of ELLE now: a magazine, a website, a brand, and above all an idea of how a modern woman might move through the world with all of the passion and authority she deserves; an idea all of you have helped build into a powerhouse over these last 17 years.


When I started in this role, it was with the best mission an editor can give herself: To open women’s appetites. And I surrounded myself with the smartest, most creative people, you, to both magnify what ELLE stood for—strong, confident women who play a leading role in creating a culture that honors all of us—and expand the idea of what American beauty really looks like. We took fashion beyond the ateliers to the street (before street style was even a term) and made it personal, by spotlighting the chicest, coolest women on the planet, interpreted by such creative leaders as Samira Nasr, Ruba Abu-Nimah, David Bellemere, Terry Tsiolis, David Vanderwaal, Liz Collins, Alex Gonzalez, Joe Zee, and ELLE U.S. founder Gilles Bensimon, with whom I worked with for the first seven years of my tenure.


Every editor here embraces the idea that our reader is curious, erudite, and expects us to engage her on a higher level, with a multiplicity of voices and perspectives on our pages. And in that, Elle redefined what a fashion magazine can be, by assuming that a cultured woman could be simultaneously captivated by what Raf is doing at Calvin Klein, and, say, an (exclusive) interview with Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg. Or the writing and reporting of such thinkers as regulars Daphne Merkin, Lauren Slater, Amanda Fortini, Salamishah Tillet, Lizzy Goodman, Holly Millea, Taiye Selasi, Rachel Kaadzi Ghansah, Jessica Pressler, Michael Eric Dyson, Akhil Sharma, John Richardson, Linda Tirado, as well as our own Laurie Abraham, Maggie Bullock, E. Jean Carroll, Lisa Chase, Rachael Combe, Emily Dougherty, April Long, Anne Slowey, and Louisa Kamps. In one of my favorite recent essays, novelist Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie pondered the bias against smart, empowered women who also happen to care about what they wear.


Why shouldn’t a smart woman love fashion? she wrote. And, for that matter, why shouldn’t a fashionable woman love politics, TV, comedy, art? I loved delving into each of those worlds, connecting with the women making an indelible mark on those fields, and thereby influencing how all of us think and feel. (It’s fitting that I leave as we close the 24th Annual Women in Hollywood issue with eight very different and compelling women on our covers, including someone I’ve long wanted to honor: 92-year-old actress Cicely Tyson, whom I’ve admired since I was a girl.)


There have been many firsts, where we jumped in while others demurred. Through Project Runway, ELLE helped to bring fashion to an enormous audience in the days before Instagram. We were the first into VR and AR—heck, we were the first to launch a website, back in 1999. We transformed our editorial features into celebrations of female power across so many industries with the aforementioned Women In events: Hollywood, Television, Tech, Art, Washington, Music. We’ve honored hundreds of women who are making a difference, and there will be a long list of up-and-comers to honor in the years to come.


And here’s one more thing I want you to be very proud of —because of our fantastic publisher Kevin O’Malley and his great team supporting us, ELLE editors have been able to create and publish more editorial pages than any of our competition for many years running, indeed, at or near the top of all monthly magazines (which made for some tough closes brilliantly managed by Terri Schlenger, Laura Sampedro and Ken Gawrych).


Of all of our accomplishments, that amazing content that you produce month after month is what inspires me the most. Some of you have been with me on this long journey since the beginning, or the beginning of your careers, and you all have grown into formidable editors: Laurie, Maggie, Emily, Joann Pailey, Jade Frampton, Jennifer Weisel, Rachel Baker and Seth Plattner among them. You are the best in the business, giving our readers the energy, excitement, and splendor they expect from ELLE. You did this. You made ELLE the success it is.


You will see me around the Tower from time to time, as I’ll be consulting with David Carey, bringing new ideas about where fashion, retail, and most importantly women, are heading in this transformational moment in history, and I’ll be speaking on behalf of those women, and Hearst, in the fall.


I wish you all the very best in your personal and professional lives, and I look forward to watching ELLE continue to lead the fashion and cultural conversation for modern, dynamic women everywhere. As I’ve always said, choose kindness. And please know that I feel great affection and respect for each of you, and above all, gratitude.


Thank you. Thank you.


xRobbie

Sourc: The Cut
 
I would love to see Eva Chen or Joe Zee, or another stylist being the editor in chief of Elle.
 
Nina tends to get a bad rap but I'm not sure why. Marie Claire's fashion content tends to be surprisingly good. I've especially enjoyed their work with Francois Nars which has been especially high caliber.
 
I wonder if she'll give Heidi Kolyn a cover (for Project Runway). but if she continues her role in the show, it's a good publicity for them.
 

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