The Business of Magazines | Page 162 | the Fashion Spot

The Business of Magazines

Nice little article about Conde Nast finally ceasing work with Terry Richardson. Now only if Hearst will follow suit as well.

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/201...richardson-banned-working-vogue-leading-mags/

Exclusive: Terry Richardson banned from working with Vogue and other leading mags, leaked email shows

Kate Moss and Terry Richardson attending the Mango fashion show at the Centre Pompidou modern art museum in Paris, France Credit: Orban Thierry/ABACA/Press Association
Terry Richardson, the fashion photographer, has been barred from working with some of the world’s bestselling magazines, The Daily Telegraph can reveal.

An email circulated within the media group Condé Nast International on Monday and seen by this newspaper announced that the company would no longer work with him.

Staff were told that any work already commissioned from Mr Richardson but not yet published should be “killed or substituted with other material”.

The company publishes international editions of leading fashion magazines such as Vogue, GQ and Glamour as well as other well-known titles including Vanity Fair and Wired.

Mr Richardson, whose photographs often grace the covers of fashion magazines and are known in the industry for being sexually explicit, has been dogged for years by allegations of sexual exploitation of models, something he has always denied.

At the weekend, a UK newspaper asked why the 52-year-old was still being “feted by fashionistas” in the wake of the Harvey Weinstein revelations.

Mr Richardson’s contract arrangements had been in dispute for some time with Condé Nast International, but within 24 hours of the article appearing an email was circulated telling staff not to work with him.

The message was sent by James Woolhouse, the company’s executive vice president and chief operating officer, to “country presidents” at the firm at 8.14am on Monday.

Model Enriko Mihalik and photographer Terry Richardson pose during the creation of the new 2010 Pirelli calendar
Model Enriko Mihalik and photographer Terry Richardson pose during the creation of the new 2010 Pirelli calendar Credit: Pirelli via Getty Images
Mr Woolhouse wrote: “I am writing to you on an important matter. Condé Nast would like to no longer work with the photographer Terry Richardson.

“Any shoots that have been commission[ed] or any shoots that have been completed but not yet published, should be killed and substituted with other material.

“Please could you confirm that this policy will be actioned in your market effective immediately. Thank you for your support in this matter.”

Condé Nast International was approached repeatedly for comment but declined to respond.

Allegations over Mr Richardson’s conduct have resurfaced and made headlines in recent days, though no fresh claims have been made.

The New York-based photographer has worked with some of the biggest names in the music industry including Beyoncé, Lady Gaga and Miley Cyrus, who got Mr Richardson to direct a controversial music video for her song Wrecking Ball in 2013, in which she appeared naked. She later said she regretted the shoot.

Mr Richardson has often appeared in his own photographs. The Sunday Times published a 1,100-word article this weekend questioning the fashion industry’s continued use of Mr Richardson.

It noted Mr Richardson was recently photographed arm-in-arm with Edward Enninful, the editor of British Vogue, and attended shows at New York’s fashion week last month.

On Friday, a letter from Mr Richardson published on the Huffington Post website addressed the “rumours” over his conduct circulating in recent days.

It said: “I collaborated with consenting adult women who were fully aware of the nature of the work, and as is typical with any project, everyone signed releases.

“I have never used an offer of work or a threat of rebuke to coerce someone into something that they did not want to do.

Terry Richardson and guest attend the Jeremy Scott Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week at Spring Studios on September 8, 2017
Terry Richardson and guest attend the Jeremy Scott Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week at Spring Studios on September 8, 2017 Credit: Ben Gabbe/Getty Images
“I give everyone that I work with enough respect to view them as having ownership of their free will and making their decisions accordingly, and as such, it has been difficult to see myself as a target of revisionist history.”

The spotlight fell on the modelling industry in the wake of allegations that came to light against Mr Weinstein, the Hollywood mogul.

Mr Weinstein is facing allegations of sexual assault and harassment from more than 40 women, including Angelina Jolie and Gwyneth Paltrow. Christy Turlington, the model, said last week that harassment of photographic models was widely tolerated in the industry.

“The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experienced at some point in our careers,” she said.

“I feel fortunate that I did not personally experience anything traumatic, but also know that is not the norm.”

Cameron Russell, the former model, has also been using her Instagram page to share anonymous stories of harassment in the industry in recent days.

She wrote: “Hearing about Harvey Weinstein this week has sparked conversations about how widespread and how familiar his behaviour is.”

Ms Russell urged people to post their experiences with the hashtag #MyJobShouldNotIncludeAbuse “so the industry can see the size and scope of this problem”.

Mr Richardson’s spokesman declined to comment.
 
yes, finally...now it's the turn of the rest to follow CN...
 
I read an article today that said Terry Richardson hasn't shot for US Vogue since 2010. Is that accurate?
 
I read an article today that said Terry Richardson hasn't shot for US Vogue since 2010. Is that accurate?

Could be true and that wouldn't surprise me. He was never big at US Vogue to begin with.
 
Advert for the new UK Vogue.

(my snap. from glamour uk)
 

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I read an article today that said Terry Richardson hasn't shot for US Vogue since 2010. Is that accurate?

I believe he worked for them in the nineties, maybe early 2000's, and then in/around 2010 out of nowhere he had a (few?) eds; and then it stopped once Rie and other models started talking about him that year
 
Wanted to post this here as well since it has to do with magazine publications.

More Publishers Cut Ties With Terry Richardson

Terry Richardson is losing more clients. Sources at both Hearst and The Wall Street Journal’s luxury supplement WSJ confirm that they have no plans to work with the controversial fashion photographer, who last faced allegations of sexual misconduct in 2014.

The news comes as the fallout from the allegations against Harvey Weinstein continues to shine a light on other industries, including fashion photography and modeling.

Earlier this week, Condé Nast International made headlines after Britain’s The Daily Telegraph published an internal e-mail from the publisher banning the company’s titles from working with Richardson. “I am writing to you on an important matter. Condé Nast would like to no longer work with the photographer Terry Richardson. Any shoots that have been commissioned or any shoots that have been completed but not yet published, should be killed and substituted with other material,” the e-mail from James Woolhouse, executive vice president and chief operating officer of CNI, said.

Condé Nast U.S. followed suit: “Condé Nast has nothing planned with Terry going forward,” the publisher said. “Sexual harassment of any kind is unacceptable and should not be tolerated.” W magazine’s November issue featured a shoot by Richardson, as did the September issue of WSJ. Hearst-owned Harper’s Bazaar has been known to use the photographer with some regularity over the years, and Richardson was spotted at Harper’s crowded fashion week party in September.

Fashion brands have followed Condé’s lead, and Bulgari, Valentino and Diesel have all said that they will not work with Richardson.

A representative for Richardson told The Daily Beast that the photographer was “disappointed” by Condé Nast’s decision to blacklist him. Looks like he is in for some more disappointment.
wwd.com
 
Advert for the new UK Vogue.

(my snap. from glamour uk)

Simple, straight to the point and modern - I hope this is what the new British Vogue will evoke once it comes out. I do love the look of the teaser (including the sleek font). Thanks for sharing, 8eight!
 
Oh god. I went through all the effort of logging in just to see that basic AF photo. call me when actual imagery is published.
 
Also thanks for the info on Terry guys. I could of swore he did a couple accessories editorials for US Vogue. I thought it was like 2011 - 2015. Something with a model sitting under a hair dryer. Can’t believe it’s been seven years....
 
Apparently New Yorker's David Remnick is currently lobbying for Ronan Farrow to take over from Graydon. Another one in the mix is some guy from Canada, who isn't unlikely because Graydon also ended up getting the job 25yrs ago.
There's also a possiblity that Janice Min may not want the VF job due to the relocation from Los Angeles, and the possibility of a bigger position in enntertainment.
 
According to one of the recent articles about Terry, he had shot the January cover of Elle (!) but it was reshot now by a different photographer. I'm shocked and disappointed that Elle hired him now in 2017 after everything we've heard. Whose decision was that?

edit: from NYTimes:

When Roberta Myers was the editor of Elle (she recently stepped down), she had forbidden the magazine to work with Mr. Richardson, but after Nina Garcia was appointed as Elle’s new editor, he was commissioned to photograph the actress Zoë Kravitz for the January 2018 cover.
 
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According to one of the recent articles about Terry, he had shot the January cover of Elle (!) but it was reshot now by a different photographer. I'm shocked and disappointed that Elle hired him now in 2017 after everything we've heard. Who's decision was that?

According to reports, Nina Garcia. This news was posted in the Cover Rumour Thread, and Terry's thread in Rumour Has It.
 
Vogue Italia's Emanuele Farneti on the style fashion magazines need now

by Lisa Armstrong
Updated Oct 27 2017 at 7:00 PM

Emanuele Farneti, the recently appointed 43-year-old editor of Italian Vogue apologises profusely for being late, ruing that he didn't ride his trusty old Suzuki motorcycle, but was instead chauffeured in one of those black limos all fashion VIPs take during fashion month.

He wasn't even diva late. Besides, it gave me time to explore the offices of Italian Vogue which are empty – it's Saturday, but still – and smaller, cosier and more cluttered than I'd expected. A corridor is lined with framed images from the past 53 years of the magazine's history. "Some people said I should get rid of them and start afresh," he says. "But why would I want to erase all of Italian Vogue's history?"

It is quite a history. There are currently 22 editions of Vogue around the world – with Polish Vogue set to launch in March 2018. Some Vogues are more equal than others, however. At the top, American Vogue remains the undoubted power player in Condé Nast's stable. On its right, is Italian Vogue. Although its circulation is small – 74,600 for July 2017 – Italian Vogue is the niche, arty one that punches far above its circulation in terms of cultural reach.

Franca Sozzani, its previous editor-in-chief for 25 years, was revered for her personal style, unerring ability to spot talent and her willingness to take a punt on controversial issues, turning oil spills, race and plastic surgery into memorable fashion images that sparked worldwide conversations.

When Sozzani died last December of cancer, at the age of 66, only her closest friends knew she was ill. Such was the shock, that some even said Condé Nast should close the magazine: Franca was irreplaceable. On to this somewhat poisoned plateau stepped Farneti and in the early days of his tenure – he took possession of Sozzani's black and cream office in February – he did not look like a man who was having an enormous amount of fun.

"It was really tough at the start," he concedes. "But it was such an interesting time to take over because it's such a time of change in magazines."
Readers losing the habit

That's putting it mildly. In cruder language, magazine circulations across developed markets are plummeting. Titles are merging or moving solely online. Condé Nast, once considered a blue-chip prospect, is reining in, shedding employees and closing publications on both sides of the Atlantic. Early in October, it announced that British Glamour, an instant success when it launched in 2001 with a circulation of more than 581,000 that had dwindled to around 270,000, would henceforth be a digital-only entity focusing on beauty.

The generations of women who measured their life stages by their glossy magazine subscriptions have lost the habit. Current teens and 20-somethings never acquired it.

Not only that but Farneti, although unfeasibly chiselled and handsome (if the Coen brothers were casting a male Vogue editor...), is about as far from Franca Sozzani as it's possible for a fashion magazine editor to be. A criminal lawyer by training, he's a red-in-tooth-and-claw journalist who edited Italian GQ and Architectural Digest, but cut his teeth on sports journals and a small (ie budget) TV channel called Sei Milano (You, Milan).

"They gave us cameras and we just had to go out into the city looking for news," he laughs. When Diana, Princess of Wales died, he found himself holding the fort in a TV studio for six hours with no film footage. This is terrific training for managing social media, but it is not the classic career path of a Vogue editor – and there were raised eyebrows on his appointment.

It must have been gratifying therefore, when his first issue sold 74,000 copies, up 16.7 per cent from 2016. "Well, it's not such a huge number," he says with typical modesty, "but it's significant that you can raise the circulation, because no one thinks that's possible these days."

There were two September covers (which together sold 94,300, up 5 per cent on 2016), one featuring two female models kissing, the other two males – both part of an osculatory photographic portfolio that featured in the magazine's celebration of LGBT issues.

"It's good to be controversial. Not for the sake of it – this is still a super Catholic country – but because they were part of such a beautiful story. We also introduced a new column in that issue called Manifesto, and the first one was an open letter to the Italian minister of tourism because apparently Italy's record of attracting LGBT tourists is pretty bad."

So is Italian Vogue's future one of decorative social campaigning? "Franca was already doing that, and I want to do much more. If you can get a lot of people talking about an issue and sharing it on social media then they might actually end up having the curiosity to buy it."
Social media strategy

Farneti's wife worked for a digital agency – although since he became Vogue editor, she's at home looking after their two young children – but there was much discussion in the Farneti household about their social media strategy before the Kiss issue. "What's interesting is that it outsold, by some quantity, the Madonna cover we did in February, which was our other highest."

That may be more a symptom of Madonna's waning star wattage than the death knell of celebrity obsession, but it does point to a multi-textured debate that magazines, if they're smart, can be part of. Teen Vogue, which decreased its print output to four times a year last December, has unexpectedly gained a large online readership by engaging in political topics.

Far from a perverse choice to lead Italian Vogue, Farneti, thoughtful and observant, seems a promising helmsman to navigate the magazine to further relevancy. The October issue celebrated older women – including sexagenarians Linda Rodin and Maye Musk, mother of Elon and a model. He seems committed to broadening definitions of beauty. "That's why I appointed a creative director [Giovanni Bianco] rather than a fashion director who might impose a single vision."

He's also upped the amount of journalism in the magazine. "If you're charging €5 for a magazine it has to be multi-layered, with the best of the best. That's why I didn't rush to sign celebrity contributors."

This seems in direct contrast to his British equivalent, Edward Enninful, British Vogue's editor, who tweeted all his celebrity appointments shortly after arriving there. With the new editor of Vogue Arabia, that makes three men editing women's fashion magazines.

Coincidence, says Farneti. "I don't think any woman wanted to take on Franca's role, so they got me," he jokes. In the interests of sexual equality, I should describe what he's wearing when I meet him: light trousers by Incotex ("the best in the world"), a Brooks Brothers shirt and adidas trainers.
Maintaining status

While Italian Vogue has always been the ultimate platform for photographers, its budgets are smaller than British or American Vogue's. Coupled with his own lack of starriness, that made the job tougher for Farneti, who by his own judgment, "needs to work more on my face-to-face".

He's had to reassure Italian Vogue's roster of top photographers – from long-established stars such as Steven Meisel to new meteorites such as Harley Weir – that Italian Vogue is still the top gig.

So far so good. Meisel is still on board, Juergen Teller, who hasn't shot for the magazine for years, is back, and true to form, sending Farneti nude self-portraits. "I said Juergen, please, I've only just joined the magazine."

Farneti is also committed to finding new Italian stars, photographers and designers. "It's like there's a missing Italian generation," says Farneti, who was born in Rome but moved to Milan when he was young. "In the early '90s, at the start of Dolce & Gabbana and in the full bloom of Versace and Armani, there was such energy in Milan. I don't know what happened, but weirdly, the lack of vitality in the city is making Italian Vogue a kind of centre."

Since our interview, the Weinstein story exploded. It seemed incumbent to ask him about some of the practices in the fashion industry. "Vogue Italia has a reputation of being caring and respectful of all the people involved in the process of making the magazine, so I would be extremely surprised to find out that somebody working for us doesn't respect this standard. Plus, the idea of being friendly and gentle is also a big part of our 'New Chapter', so I expect everyone to behave properly," he emailed back.

He genuinely seems to believe there's a new era in fashion coming – one where the cult of bad behaviour and grand fiefdoms has less currency and the star status of the magazine editor is shared more evenly among the team. As for the Italian woman looking for something to wear to the office or a wedding – Italian Vogue was never that kind of magazine.

Perhaps that's the sensible tactic in a country where the clothes spend fell by €2 billion between 2012 and 2014. "The reaction to the September issue was so strong, it made me realise Italian Vogue can make a difference," he says. "It's not necessarily just about buying a bag that's €2000."

Source: Afr.com
 
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They do have a point, this does look very tabloidy! It seems to me that Bruce and maybe even M. Night Shyamalan (who wrote the accompanying feature) probably insisted on the cover image being used.



Elle Decor staffers fume over Bruce Willis cover story

October 5, 2017 | 9:05pm
By Mara Siegler


Elle Decor insiders are buzzing that the magazine’s sales associates, staffers and top brass are upset over new Editor-in-Chief Whitney Robinson’s latest cover story on Bruce Willis.

“The magazine has a collage of photos of Bruce, [his wife Emma] and his kids instead of the home,” says a source. “A sales associate went to the publisher and said that the magazine looks like a tabloid and that the luxury advertisers could possibly leave.”The source continues that Hearst Magazines chief content officer Joanna Coles and president Michael Clinton got word of the flap and spoke with Robinson. Another source adds, “Many staffers felt it was completely inappropriate for a shelter magazine.” The feature includes outdoor shots of the pool and a car.

But the few interior photos show a stairwell, a mud room, and a small sliver of the kids’ playroom.

While the article mentions an impressive-sounding wine cellar and cottage that’s been converted into an office, neither is pictured. A source close to the magazine insists the lack of interior shots is because “the lighting was just better outside.”

Last month’s cover featuring Andy Cohen racked up about 5,000 likes on Instagram, down from the previous issue’s 9,400, which “freaked out the editorial and publishing side.”

Source: Pagesix.com
 
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:shock:

Top 5 Chinese Fashion Editors You Need to Know

Ruonan Zheng
October 21, 2017

They are the power players in the Chinese fashion industry, they are the tastemakers in the glamorous world of beauty and luxury, they influence readers as to what fashion to buy. Jing Daily introduces you to the top 5 Chinese fashion editors you need to know:

1. Angelica Cheung: Editor-In-Chief, Vogue China

Known as a pragmatic and international player, Angelica Cheung is perhaps the best known of the fashion editors to Western readers. A Beijing native, Cheung became the youngest of Vogue’s editor-in-chiefs in 2005. When Cheung launched her first September issue in 2005, 300,000 copies sold out, and the issue went into a second printing. With an education in law and literature from Peking University, one of China’s most prestigious institutions, Cheung built her reputation as an editorial chief of Elle China and Marie Claire Hong Kong. In between, she had a stint as an investment banker at Goldman Sachs. As an industry innovator and pioneer, she created the breakthrough Vogue Me, a print magazine that targeted Chinese millennial with tailor-made content—Vogue was the first in the Chinese fashion media industry to do so. When it first launched, the first 30,000 copies of the Vogue Me limited edition sold out online within six minutes.

About the magazine:

Published by Condé Nast and the state-owned China Pictorial Publishing House, Vogue China magazine has more than 2 million monthly readers and more than 5 million social media followers. The different digital platforms such as Vogue TV and Vogue Film complete its fashion media ecosystem, attracting various audiences. Vogue China was called “the most important Vogue,” according to the prolific Peruvian fashion photographer Mario Testino.

Quote:

“Everything is changing; the world is changing; China is changing. And in China, because it was complicated to start with, it’s even more difficult for people to catch what’s happening. This is what Vogue China is trying to do: introduce a certain structure into a chaotic market. ” – Angelica Cheung said in an interview with Business of Fashion in 2017.

2. Xiao Xue: CEO and Editor-In-Chief of ELLE China

Xiao Xue is more familiar to Chinese readers, having maintained a popular Sina blog and Wechat account that showcases her travels and day-to-day activities. Many Chinese readers follow her writings for insights into her flashy editor role. Xiao Xue started her editorial career at ILOOK in 2000, taking the role from power publisher Hong Huang. She became editorial director of ELLE China in 2006 and after about 10 years became the CEO and editor-in-chief of this magazine. She became known for her cover-shoot collaborations with top Chinese celebrities, eschewing foreign celebrities and models, starting with the actress Ziyi Zhang. This innovative approach became a new industry benchmark at that time.

About the magazine:


As a part of Hearst, ELLE is the first international fashion magazine to be published in China. The publication reaches 6 million readers every month. In addition to a magazine, there is also a website, an app, a television channel, an online shop, and a credit card with more than 2.8 million female cardholders. Under Xiao Xue’s leadership, in 2012, ELLE China evolved from a monthly publication to semi-monthly in order to reach the lower-tier of cities in China.

Quote:


“You can’t allow yourself to be led by numbers, you need to know your value by heart.” Xiao Xue commented on her struggle and lessons learned in the digital age, in an interview she did with Chinese fashion website Luxe.co.

3. Su Mang: Editor-In-chief of Harper’s Bazaar China

Su Mang is the CEO of Trends Media Group, which owns the Chinese editions of Cosmopolitan, Esquire and Good Housekeeping. In 2001, she collaborated with the American women’s fashion magazine Harper’s Bazaar to launch its Chinese version and since then became the editor-in-chief of Harper’s Bazaar China. She also inaugurated “Bazaar Star Charity Night” in 2003. The media attention and donation that the event received was exceptional. In 2005, she founded Bazaar Men, the first business fashion magazine for men in China, targeting those who “would marry a Bazaar woman.” She started her career in ad sales at Fashion magazine at the age of 25, and she has been heavily involved in the publishing side ever since, now considered a powerhouse magazine publisher in the industry. Huang Huang, the Oprah of China, commented that Su Mang’s magazine “symbolized the age of Chinese bling.”

About the magazine:

Launched in 2001, Harper’s Bazaar in China is a publication with a circulation of over one million. Trends officially announced the corporation with Harper’s Bazaar and renamed it again as Bazaar China in 2005. It covers the well-accomplished Chinese women’s lifestyles, often uncovering the behind-the-scenes lives of those successful Chinese women, offering readers a perspective of their struggles leading to fame and power. Su Mang named the mission of her magazine as “to make successful women more fashionable, to make fashion lady more successful.”

Quote:

“I have nothing except dream and hard work. I very much don’t want to admit being defeated, I recognize that I won’t be defeated. ” –Su Mang in a featured article in NYT China entitled, “Su Mang and Chinese fashion’s road to desire,” in 2013

4. Xu Wei: Editor-In-chief of Cosmopolitan China

She is the one that set the tone for Cosmopolitan China. Graduating from Remin University as a journalism major, Xu Wei first started her career at Sanlian Lifeweek in 1994, reporting on society issues. She began at Trends Magazine in 1995. She has been the editor of Cosmo China for 14 years and is now vice president of Trends Media group. She published her own book, “Love yourself like how you love your luxury goods,” which offers advice about growth and challenges for young women.

About the magazine:

Different from the Western Cosmo “sex bible,” the Chinese Cosmo advocates a “power femininity,” encouraging women to look inside holistically, from their dress, cosmetics, even sex and relationships with men: topics that celebrate women’s assertive individualism and the pursuit of happiness. The magazine set a good example for foreign fashion magazines to locate their counterparts in Chinese culture with over one million circulations.

Quote:

“I used to despise fashion, think it’s too superficial, after 15 years of being in the industry, I realized that to know yourself is as important as knowing the world out there. I think the meaning of fashion is to be able to look within, to love yourself and your life. ” — Xu Wei in an interview with Sina Woman in 2015

5. Shaway Yeh: Chief Editor of iWeekly

I-D calls her “Avant-Garde Anna Wintour,” Shaway Yeh pushes the boundaries of a traditional fashion magazine and has played a crucial role in developing Chinese fashion by her own definition. She is the chief editor of iWeekly, fashion editorial director of its parent company Modern Media. Shaway was born in Taiwan and built many underground publications as a student. When she studied acting theory at New York University, she founded fashion magazine aRUDE with many of her friends and then became the fashion director for GQ Taiwan. Amazed at the creative scene in mainland China, she moved to Shanghai in 2003. After working at Prada’s PR team and Conde Nast, she joined Modern Media in 2006. As a close collaborator with New Museum of Contemporary Art, MoMA PS1, China UCCA, she really pushed the local magazine to be seen internationally with her art connections.

About the magazine:

Modern Media owns 16 print magazines such as Numero Big City, Bloomberg Businessweek, The Good Life, Ideat, and 15 digital media including iWeekly, iBloomberg, iFashion. iWeekly magazine has generated more than 900,000 readers.

Quote:

“Fashion websites would report celebrity gossip, even promote baby product, they don’t treat fashion as art and culture. So I decided to create something that would offer more intelligence,” she joked in an interview with BoF in 2015.

Source: Jingdaily.com
 
It's not just Elle Décor that's trying out celebrity covers at the moment - Architectural Digest has had Claudia Schiffer, Tory Birch and Julianne Moore on the front of recent issues.
 

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