The House Of Schiaparelli

[Erzébeth]

im all for reviving old houses if it works out. just look at chanel.


isnt there schiaparelli pantyhose and stockings too?

 

[oceanharlot]

I would hope that design houses would continue in the original idea for the house even after the lead designer passed on. Schiaparelli is such an iconic brand... god their jewelry is simply droolworthy.

I think there will always be a place for the staples of fashion design. New, outrageous designers will always pop up, but iconic, classic designers that know the art of the cut are few and far between.

 

[Scott]

Re-hash....

I really see no point in revamping. Schiap left her mark and if we were to get a shoddy designer in(as I'm sure they will),it would destory the spirit of her legacy and imagination. Besides,we still got her spirit for surrealism in the likes of McQueen,Willhelm(despite all),De Castlebajac,Beirendonck and Van Saene.

Anyway...if anybody could find some...would you mind posting some images of her work. I cannot find any through the web at all that would suffice. There's was a great presence of her work in the exhibition for "Malign Muses"...."Phantasmagoria".

 

[fouroclock]

(If anything I said is mentioned before, I will say my advanced apologies).

IMO Schiaperelli, as I've learned from pics, shouldn't be revived if they're trying to capture the Schiaperelli of the past. Her house came to be because of the era that she lived in, and that can never be recreated. As an analogy, we can only have Baroque-influenced dresses, and not actual ones.

Schiaperelli should be revived in a way that it would fit into the context of our culture right now like our Space Age Balenciaga did.

 

[La bordélique]

bump

i don't like the idea of a house revival...
but i think the closest we can get to schiaparelli's designs is by having jean paul gaultier as director.
both designers seem to 'play' with fashion, they both have crazy ideas...
ie: hat made of a shoe/hat made of hair

just my two cents

 

[Scott]

^not crazy. Just imagintive.

but I agree,I don't like the idea of a revival. somehow I feel that would totally destroy the wonderful spirit and legacy left by Elsa.

 

[La bordélique]

not crazy. Just imagintive.

true...
also forgot about the "shocking" perfume bottle and gaultier's.
same concept.

 

[rangerrick14]

I kinda think maybe Galliano would be a good fit. He has the sureal eye and love for theatrical clothes as Schiap. And his couture collection for Dior 06 reminded me of Sciaperelli. The whole lobster dresses.

 

[RetroGirl]

I think a revive would be interesting if the right designer was chosen.
Perhaps Mcqueen?

Here is an interesting excerpt from a book:

[SIZE=+2]Fashion Trendsetter: Elsa Schiaparelli [/SIZE]

[SIZE=-1]Design by Schiaparelli[/SIZE]
Elsa Schiaparelli, born in Rome, was the design trend setter of the 1930s. With a background in the arts, she had a natural sensitivity to fashion styling. Famous for her audacious improvisations, she truly did design the unusual.
In the mid 1920s, "Schiap" got her start in Paris by sketching a sweater and having it made by an American craftswoman. The black sweater had a large white bow motif knitted into its front. It was such a novel idea that Schiaparelli immediately received an order from an American buyer. Her sweater designs fitted in perfectly with the surrealistic art of the time. one design, featuring white ribs outlined on a black background, looked like an X-ray view of the chest—the fore- runner of the decorated T-shirt.
Schiaparelli's first salon, opened in 1927 and called Pour le Sport, specialized in sportswear and suits. Schiaparelli used bold accents of color, especially "shocking pink," which she made famous.
When the Depression put an end to frivolity, it also ended the Flapper Look. The waist returned to its normal po- sition and skirts fell below the knee. In addition, Schiaparelli moved the center of interest to the shoulders, which she be- gan to widen, accentuating them by pleats, padding, or braid—a silhouette that remained popular through World War II. Often called hard chic, her designs were smart rather than pretty. Schiaparelli used the bias cut for dresses, giving them a sensuous, clinging look that showed off the female figure. Very photogenic because of their bold statements, her designs dominated the fashion magazines.
Schiaparelli's daring nonsensical gadget accessories, such as fish buttons, foxhead gloves, and newspaper-print scarves, were just the right touch for the last frivolous, de- cadent years before World War 11. Schiaparelli also had a per- sonal interest in her clients, often trying to help them find the clothes best suited to them. she believed that clothes should fit one's life-style.
[SIZE=-1]From the book Fashion From Concept to Consumer by Gini Stephens Frings[/SIZE]

 

[eugenius]

As for a revival, Im slightly confused. On one hand, since Im a great admirer of HER work, I feel like another designer wouldn't stay true to her spirit. That phrase "Close, but no cigar" would apply...But on the other hand, I do believe that anything is possible, so why not? Off the top of my head, the only one I can think of who can do it would be Gaultier (their shared use of the trompe l'oeil technique, among others, is apparent)..and, since millinery played a strong role in her line, I'd opt for Treacy to cover that section...

Sigh--a boy can only dream..

 

[CelebrityMitch]

Giles Deacon rumoured to revive Schiaparelli


Tod's founder Diego Della Valle has been searching for someone to resurrect fashion house Schiaparelli and rumours are flying that it might be Giles Deacon (pictured left, with Stephen Jones). Roland Mouret had been pipped for the post but recent reports suggest talks have fallen through with the French designer. Deacon's latest show set tongues wagging as the bambi-prints, elastic band embellishments and retro silhouette were not far removed from Schiaparelli's surrealist vision.
In her heyday Elsa Schiaparelli was a big name, collaborating with Salvador Dali to create lobster-print dresses and giant lamb chop hats. Her influenced waned as the Second World War started and then as designers like Christian Dior came to prominence and the house closed in 1954.


http://www.catwalkqueen.tv

 

[dior_couture1245]

Giles might be a good fit (although, he's still too London in my opinion). I think JPG's aesthetic is very close to Elsa's. McQueen is too dark and moody (although that skeletal black dress looks very McQueen, actually it also looks very Tisci) and Galliano is too bright and crazy (but, he does do Schiapparelli very well. His Schiaparelli section in Dior's HC FW 06 was very true to her spirit). To me, Elsa's clothes were wearable but always quirky with odd details and silly accessories, and JPG has that same thing going on, which is what I really like about both designers, I'd say that they both have that awesome combination of sophistication and humor!

 

[iyemstoopid]

imho I dont think giles is a good fit for schiaparelli. I associate him with much more trendy, and young. I always thought of schiaparelli as very elegant, dark and definitely a different type of humor than what I associate with giles.

 

[bearbrick]

just hire a decent desiger......beter still an unknown ...who has no baggage , no rehab issues , no ego , no preconcieve ideas .........and then dive in to schiapereilli's archives and then ........reissue and reissue andreissue and do some addons ala lagerfeld for chanel......that would be the best way......methinks

 

[Bidwell]

The skeletal dress is the same concept as the puffy bows and hands from Comme des garçons. Oh, but she doesn't copy anyone does she?
The obvious choice would be Gaultier because his is the hereditary link in so many ways. Franco Moschino was the genetic link being Italian. They still live off the concept.

The idea of every designer starting their own line for aesthetic reasons certainly isn't grounded on reality. It takes over a million dollars to launch even the smallest of lines if they are to survive over a 5 year period. Many hopeful designers do not have that or able to obtain until it doesn't matter (Galliano in point).
If there are august houses hanging by their toe nails on nasty licenses why shouldn't designers be given the chance to cut their teeth on them. You wouldn't have Nicolas, Tom Ford, Elbaz, Galliano, Theyskens. The list is endless.
The days of a little designer in a tiny studio doing masterful things for a few is a MYTH if they actually make money or plan on it.

 

[telepathicgoat]

I'm so against revival of a big house! It is so hard for young designers to get attention and backers to produce their collection... I see designers who we adore here struggling so hard to maintain their bussiness... There's no more room in the Paris Fashion Week, seriously.

 

[telepathicgoat]

BTW Giles Deacon for Schiaparelli?
How tacky!