What happens when more than 25 top ready-to-wear designers create one-of-a-kind organic looks? In this ELLE Exclusive, sustainable fashion (finally) gets the green light "I love my dress!” exclaimed model Julia Stegner, swinging the draped layers of her tea-stained sasawashi-and-peace-silk Donna Karan gown while singing the lyrics of her new favorite song, Sir Mix-A-Lot’s “Baby Got Back.”
“I think mine’s organic wool!” bragged Coco Rocha. Backstage at fall’s groundbreaking FutureFashion show in New York’s Gotham Hall, where 29 major designers created one-of-a-kind eco looks, models were doing the unthinkable—actually asking about the clothes they were being hoisted into. “Is yours heavy? Is it paper?” asked Alyona, taking her (chemical-free) manicured hands out of the pockets of her organic silk Bottega Veneta pullover to touch her friend Suvi’s Marni undyed cotton shift.
Thanks to Barneys fashion director, Julie Gilhart, who corralled a seemingly impossible group of star designers, organic fashion went from granola chic to haute couture in one night. On a wooden runway made from naturally felled Sri Lankan kumbuk trees (later to be refurbished as tables by furniture maker Tucker Robbins), a crowd of fashion’s biggest names ogled sophisticated looks by the likes of Yves Saint Laurent (bio*grain suit), Stella McCartney (organic-cotton voile summer dress), and Calvin Klein (hemp floor-length trench). The fashion industry, long fearful of being considered hypocritical by the green community for favoring artistry over sustainability, hasn’t exactly raced to embrace green design. After all, who could imagine Fendi without the furs or Hermès without the leather luxury goods? But with fashion as the second largest industrial consumer of water worldwide (behind agriculture) and cotton responsible for 25 percent of all chemical pesticide use, designers and their followers are realizing it’s time to make a change. “Laura and I grew up in northern California, completely surrounded by redwoods, tide pools, mustard fields, and apple orchards. Our visual registry was created for us by our landscape,” says Rodarte’s Kate Mulleavy, who, along with her sister, drives a Lexus RX Hybrid and works to recycle all of Rodarte’s used paper and plastic. “It’s natural to be invested in working to save those sources of inspiration,” Gilhart adds. “Fashion is everywhere and we are just beginning to learn the negative effects it has on the environment; it’s inevitable that fashion becomes more eco-friendly and be the New Cool.”
Just how to do that has become the goal of Leslie Hoffman, executive director of Earth Pledge, a nonprofit organization that seeks to align the design world with the latest green technology, and who helmed the FutureFashion runway show. Her first step was to equip each designer with a portfolio of innovative fabrics, including banana- and pineapple-plant materials (from Southeast Asia), man-made bioplastics (the United States), wood-pulp derivatives (Austria), and, naturally, hemp (China).
“We’ve been through this 60-year period where design really became detached from its environmental impact,” Hoffman says. “In some ways, the rediscovery of fabrics like hemp, which was originally used to make sails, is an exploration of very old processes and agricultural techniques.”
With Earth Pledge board members such as Gilhart, and FutureFashion advisors Shalom Harlow and Elettra Rossellini Wiedemann on model-roundup duty, the group has made raising awareness—on the eve of New York Fashion Week, no less—seem easy. “Our goal is to show that there’s a big middle ground between Birkenstocks and Birkins,” says Rossellini Wiedemann (daughter of Isabella Rossellini), who will be enrolling at the London School of Economics to study issues of sustainability later this year. Certainly, the results of their efforts are already starting to show. Raf Simmons for Jil Sander did a cashmere caftan for FutureFashion and used the fabric again in his fall ’08 ready-to-wear show. Calvin Klein’s Franciso Costa says the project gave him “a chance to consider how innovative new textiles could be integrated into a modern lifestyle.” And another designer reduced his carbon footprint by eschewing shipping and delivering his outfit to Earth Pledge via a friend already traveling to the United States. As for Thakoon Panichgul, who created a slate-gray empire-waist dress for the event, he has a newfound interest in bamboo. When asked why he chose to be a part of the show, Panichgul echoed many designers: “Because any attention to this green issue for the fashion community is a must.”