Virgil Abloh - Designer

[jeanclaude]

I think they should hire Walter Von Beirendonck. It´s time for LVMH to hire the original one, after hiring the cheap copy of him.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

One of the reasons why I like the idea of J.W. is that he'd have a lot of impact on the actual goods.

Virgil had his showpieces and certiain key items but he had very little impact in the total range. A lot of the commercial collections were business as usual and you'd have no idea he was ever involved. In contrast, Ghesquire has influenced every bag and bauble. From the dresses and evening wear to sneakers and wallets, he's touched everything. It all bares his design DNA. Given his work at Loewe, I believe JW could make a similar contribution.

 

[Lola701]

One of the reasons why I like the idea of J.W. is that he'd have a lot of impact on the actual goods.

Virgil had his showpieces and certiain key items but he had very little impact in the total range. A lot of the commercial collections were business as usual and you'd have no idea he was ever involved. In contrast, Ghesquire has influenced every bag and bauble. From the dresses and evening wear to sneakers and wallets, he's touched everything. It all bares his design DNA. Given his work at Loewe, I believe JW could make a similar contribution.

The challenge will also be to bridge the gap between a conservative client and a more volatile/luxury client. Nicolas can appeal to Brigitte Macron, Emma Chamberlain, Venus Williams or Jennifer Connelly. Because Virgil was weak in the tailoring department, it was difficult for his Vuitton to really be credible to a more conservative client and regarding the range of products it’s difficult to be involved in everything as you said.
JWA is a great commercial designer but sometimes it seems like he is trying too hard to not be commercial…Good commercial is as difficult as intense creativity.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

The challenge will also be to bridge the gap between a conservative client and a more volatile/luxury client. Nicolas can appeal to Brigitte Macron, Emma Chamberlain, Venus Williams or Jennifer Connelly. Because Virgil was weak in the tailoring department, it was difficult for his Vuitton to really be credible to a more conservative client and regarding the range of products it’s difficult to be involved in everything as you said.
JWA is a great commercial designer but sometimes it seems like he is trying too hard to not be commercial…Good commercial is as difficult as intense creativity.

I dont think he's trying not to be a commercial designer. I just think he knows the power of the runway to project, stir and inspire and doesn't waste it. He backs up the kooky clothes with realistic, relevant pieces. In stores, I'd say half of Loewe's menswear is very Fashion and the other half is more straightforward and lowkey and resembles the clothes he himself wears. I've only ever seen it divided that way on two separate racks at their store in Soho. The Loewe campaign(s) for fall are telling.





J.W. is best of both worlds. Breadth and balance.

And I don't even like the guy but he's killing it across the board at Loewe. It makes sense LVMH would want to apply his abilities to an even bigger business.

 

[LadyJunon]

One of the reasons why I like the idea of J.W. is that he'd have a lot of impact on the actual goods.

Virgil had his showpieces and certain key items but he had very little impact in the total range. A lot of the commercial collections were business as usual and you'd have no idea he was ever involved. In contrast, Ghesquire has influenced every bag and bauble. From the dresses and evening wear to sneakers and wallets, he's touched everything. It all bares his design DNA. Given his work at Loewe, I believe JW could make a similar contribution.

This actually holds of weight since the collection made during Ghesquire's first 2-3 years at LV set the groundwork for the store collections allowing Ghesquire to shift to more experimental work for the runway collections. With Virgil, there was a drastic change in the image of the brand, the shift never quite made it to the clothes in stores.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

So Michael Burke was seen front row raving about the JWA SS '23 collection in London.

Significant enough for WWD to report on it in their review.

So far, it looks like the rumor is true.

 

[LadyJunon]

I kinda feel bad for everyone expecting another "Virgil" to take over. Everyone is saying Martine Rose, Telfar Clemens or Ye.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I kinda feel bad for everyone expecting another "Virgil" to take over. Everyone is saying Martine Rose, Telfar Clemens or Ye.

You mean another black designer.

Why do you "kinda" feel bad about that?

 

[THD96]

I mean Michael Burke looks like he has been enjoying attending shows lately. He also attended Martine Rose and Grace Wales Bonner. So I'll take this with a grain of salt.

Sidney Toledano was at Anderson show 2 years ago, and he wasn't consider for Dior so. It's just probably the way the LVMH suits checking their assets

 

[yslforever]

You mean another black designer.

Why do you "kinda" feel bad about that?

I feel rattled you call ye a designer.

I am surprised Charaf Tahar, who was announced to Kenzo 18 month ago, is not considered. He is specialized in menswear, got the 2020 LVMH Price so he's practically in the LVMH stable, knows how to make hype pieces of clothing, seems genuinely interested in craftmanship (his printed silk shirts are really top notch, quality-wise, above Gucci and Saint-Laurent). Also he seems quite good with branding - he did he own recognizable monogram, just launched a collab. etc.
Perhaps the fact he did not get the Kenzo means LVMH had bigger plans for him ?
I am not American, so I don't know if he is considered POC enough from an American perspective ? (he's Moroccan, a Casablanca native like Elbaz or the Toledanos)

 

[LadyJunon]

You mean another black designer.

Why do you "kinda" feel bad about that?

Because I know they'll be extremely disappointed with all the anticipation they're making. That said, I'll laugh at the drama it'll cause.

And I used the term "Virgil", because not every black designer designs clout chasing streetwear.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I feel rattled you call ye a designer.

I am surprised Charaf Tahar, who was announced to Kenzo 18 month ago, is not considered. He is specialized in menswear, got the 2020 LVMH Price so he's practically in the LVMH stable, knows how to make hype pieces of clothing, seems genuinely interested in craftmanship (his printed silk shirts are really top notch, quality-wise, above Gucci and Saint-Laurent). Also he seems quite good with branding - he did he own recognizable monogram, just launched a collab. etc.
Perhaps the fact he did not get the Kenzo means LVMH had bigger plans for him ?
I am not American, so I don't know if he is considered POC enough from an American perspective ? (he's Moroccan, a Casablanca native like Elbaz or the Toledanos)

Don't get it twisted. I was not the one who mentioned him.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Because I know they'll be extremely disappointed with all the anticipation they're making. That said, I'll laugh at the drama it'll cause.

And I used the term "Virgil", because not every black designer designs clout chasing streetwear.

Care to elaborate on who "they" are what the drama is you are gleefully anticipating?

And do you do see how putting Virgil in quotes and then listing a bunch of black designers could read as a bit awkward?

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I am not American, so I don't know if he is considered POC enough from an American perspective ? (he's Moroccan, a Casablanca native like Elbaz or the Toledanos)

This is of course based on your inference that skin color and racial background are in fact a criteria for filling the post.

 

[LadyJunon]

Care to elaborate on who "they" are what the drama is you are gleefully anticipating?

And do you do see how putting Virgil in quotes and then listing a bunch of black designers could read as a bit awkward?

Sorry. And I mean "they" as in hypebeasts.

 

[yslforever]

This is of course based on your inference that skin color and racial background are in fact a criteria for filling the post.

Not in my mind, but I thought that what was the previous commenters implied. And some Instagram accounts too.
Some comments when Matthieu Blazy/Matthew Williams got hired for BV or Givenchy were only about their skincolor. And some about Virgil Abloh too.
But I would not comment further on this subject, I know what we did at YSL's.

 

[Page666]

Virgil created his own magic halo that Vuitton bought into and delivered to Louis Vuitton.. the products that are being produced by the design team since his his tragic death have slowly lost this halo.. if they try to search to repeat the ingredients of his cultural impact it will fail… if they try to hire someone based on skin colour or gender alone it will fail…the new story needs to make a different cultural impact.. not try and continue someone else’s...Virgil was a unique voice at a certain moment of time who had all the ingredients to take on Vuitton.. “doing” him a second time round won’t work..sadly it appears there is no mens designer out their whose design story/process/marketing savy show as much potential as Virgil’s was when he was appointed.. his last collections will soon leave the story so Vuitton will have to name someone early next year.. good luck recruiters

 

[Page666]

It seems as though Vuitton will never unify the mens and womens under one creative director as they would limit the diversity of clients that they can address with more than one vision.. I seem to recall the ceo even saying something to this effect..

 

[Marc10]

 

[Salvatore]

I know why … but WHY ? I have no problem with Pharrell and think he is a good music producer, but as as fashion designer, I-

You know what ? Nevermind. I don’t care anymore.