fashionyork
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moussemaker said:Here's Cathy's review from fashist-online message board:
"Cover: Daria by David Sims in some garishly-patterened Louis Vuitton clothes. I like the simplicity of the cover; I hate the styling.
330 pgs.
Ads:
<LI>2 pg Prada
<LI>2 pg Estee Lauder Ideal Matte with Carolyn Murphy
<LI>2 pg Lancome Spring 05 with Drew Barrymore
<LI>2 pg Estee Lauder Hydra Complete with Carolyn Murphy
<LI>2 pg Dior with Kate Moss
<LI>2 pg Louis Vuitton with Uma Thurman
<LI>2 pg YSL with Karen Elson
<LI>4 pg Chanel with Daria (new for French or UK mags)
<LI>4 pg Dolce e Gabbana
<LI>4 pg Burberry (one Kate shot, one group shot)
<LI>2 pg Chloe
<LI>2 pg Marc Jacobs
<LI>2 pg Hugo Boss with Julia Stegner
<LI>2 pg Paul & Joe
<LI>2 pg Miu Miu
<LI>2 pg Dirk Bikkembergs
<LI>2 pg Guess
<LI>2 pg Benetton
<LI>2 pg Gap with Sarah Jessica Parker
<LI>1 pg Celine with Missy Rayder
<LI>4 pg Gucci
<LI>1 pg Bottega Veneta
<LI>2 pg Bulgari
<LI>2 pg Kenzo with Stam
<LI>2 pg DKNY with Erin Wasson
<LI>3 pg Ralph Lauren with Valentina
<LI>4 pg Calkin Clein with Natalia V
<LI>2 pg Valentino with Gisele
<LI>2 pg Tods
<LI>1 pg Alberta Ferretti
<LI>2 pg Versace with Madonna
<LI>2 pg Jil Sander
<LI>2 pg Salvatore Ferragamo
<LI>1 pg Roberto Cavalli with Kate Moss
<LI>4 pg Gerard Darel with Charlotte Gainsbourg
<LI>1 pg Hogan
<LI>1 pg MaxMara with Marija
<LI>3 pg Fendi with Carmen Kass
<LI>2 pg D&G
<LI>1 pg Sergio Rossi
<LI>1 pg Vivienne Westwood with Dita Von Teese
<LI>1 pg Gianfranco Ferre with Liya
<LI>2 pg La Perla Pret a Porter with Rianne
<LI>2 pg Moschino with Guinevere
<LI>1 pg Helmut Lang
<LI>1 pg Guy Laroche
<LI>1 pg Patrizia Pepe
<LI>2 pg Et Vous with Carmen Kass
<LI>1 pg Marina Rinaldi with Carre Otis
<LI>1 pg Sportmax
<LI>1 pg Shanghai Tang
<LI>2 pg Missoni with Daria
<LI>2 pg Diesel Jeans
<LI>1 pg Custo Barcelona
<LI>1 pg La Perla lingerie with Rianne
<LI>3 pg Hermes with Gemma
<LI>2 pg Iceberg with Eva Herzigova
<LI>1 pg Cesare Paciotti
<LI>1 pg John Richmond
<LI>2 pg Emanuel Ungaro
<LI>1 pg Pollini
<LI>1 pg Lagerfeld Gallery
<LI>6 pg Longchamp with Lily Cole
<LI>2 pg Miss Sixty
<LI>2 pg Nina Ricci
<LI>1 pg Pinko with Naomi Campbell
<LI>1 pg Sonia Rykiel with Heather Marks
<LI>1 pg Jean Paul Gaultier with Diana Dondoe
<LI>2 pg Nuala with Eugenia Volodina (?)
<LI>2 pg Pepe Jeans with Jessica Miller
<LI>1 pg Isabel Marant
<LI>1 pg Fornarina
<LI>2 pg Replay Jeans
<LI>1 pg Maria Gaspari
<LI>1 pg Nicole Farhi with Julia Stegner
<LI>1 pg Les Copains
<LI>1 pg Strenesse
<LI>1 pg Massimo Dutti
<LI>2 pg Balenciaga
<LI>1 pg Dolce e Gabbana sunglasses
<LI>inner back page Used Jeans
back page Chanel Jewellery
<LI>
Articles:
I’ll concentrate on the model-related articles, and leave out most of the usual stuff, like the literature or film review sections
<LI>The ‘editor’s letter’ introduces the ‘supermodel’ theme of the issue, and tries to put Maria Carla on a similar level to Daria, as a face to follow, even though her momentum isn’t at all on the same level as the latter’s.
<LI>1 pg ‘flashback’ of a 1989 image of Linda Evangelista in perforated leather gloves, pulling her face (that made the cover of French Photo a few years later).
<LI>2 pg interview with Tori Amos.
<LI>2 pg look at the ‘bad girls’ of fashion, three models with attitude - Kristen McMenamy, Linda Evangelista and Leslie Winer (an 80s face).
<LI>1 pg about Elettra Rossellini, daughter of Isabella.
<LI>2 pg ‘hot list’ where top models give the addresses of their favourite stores; all accompanying model images are small and are catwalk or backstage shots.
<LI>1 pg look at an evening gala thrown by Natalia V for her charitable foundation Naked Heart; 4 small images of Natalia with her guests.
<LI>2 pg look at Maria Carla’s personal style, who likes to dress as if she lives “in a modern fairytale”.
<LI>1 pg look at Daria’s taste in jewellery.
<LI>4 pg of polaroids of new models, possibly ‘the supermodels of tomorrow’.
<LI>4 pg pull-out of classic candids of supermodels from years past, mainly the true supermodels like Linda posing backstage with superstar poise. Gisele is the only modern model who seems to know how to recreate that spirit in spontaneous shots.
Editorials:
The first editorial is a long portfolio of single-girl shots by David Sims, all studio-shot against plain backgrounds of white, grey or beige. We have Daria; Raquel; Erin (topless); Diana Dondoe; Julia Stegner (in a Cleopatra-like black wig); Gemma; Iselin; Gisele; Anja Rubik; Hana; Marina Perez; Natalia V; Doutzen; Elise; Liya; and Carmen Kass.
LES PRINCES is a 10 pg look at the giants of fashion photography, with a scrapbook of images from Newton, Avedon, accompanied by an interview between David Bailey and Bruce Weber.
EN ROUTE POUR LA GLOIRE is a 12 pg Daria editorial, shot by Mikael Jansson, where she’s a bronzed goddess, out and about in her slick sports car, hair flying in the wind, with the camera lens in close on her long legs, her bikini top, her shades… everything but her eyes. It all looks very ‘summer’, very expensive.
Then there’s a 6 pg interview between Steven Meisel and Ingrid Sischy, the editor of Interview magazine, accompanied with a few small-sized iconic images from Meisel’s career, mainly early 90’s shots of Christy T and Linda E, but a few Vogue Italia ones of Karen Elson (like her first Vogue Italia cover), Daria, Elise and Stam.
VIVA MARIACARLA is a 12 pg editorial by Craig McDean, shot in b/w and with the model wearing clothes as if she were a modern-day Italian film star, but I’m not getting that at all from the images; it’s just Mariacarla looking like she’s entered into a second career as a pantomime actress. It’s not glamorous, it’s not striking, it’s just a bit indulgent.
‘Dolce e Gabbana, 20 Years’ is a 6 pg tribute to the anniversary of the designers, with 4 pgs of Marija Vujovic wearing their latest collection, interspersed with small, classic images from previous campaigns (Linda, Gisele, Kate Moss, Monica Bellucci) with one page of text.
A 2 pg focus on Kate Moss, because SMALL IS BEAUTIFUL, followed by a 6 pg studio-shot editorial by Demarchelier, of a young model called Mona, who is supposed to invoke the image of a young Kate Moss. Here she’s standing in ethnic-casual clothes with a mix of textures, desert bag with a T-shirt, plaid shorts with a crocodile bag. She’s nice, but not a patch on Kate Moss at any age.
Beauty:
<LI>The beauty section opens with an image of a model with enormous mop of backcombed wild hair.
<LI>1 pg look at hairstyles from the spring-summer catwalk; 12 small shots of various models.
<LI>1 pg look at Orlando Pita’s first salon.
<LI>IN & OUT is a short editorial featuring 3 girls faces, split in half with one side showing a different version of a make-up style to the other, so we have Polina with natural freckles, then with a flawless pale canvas, Jonita with a natural lip, then dramatically defined with lipliner, and then Morgane with a smoky eye, then an eye with white highlighter added to the mix.
Overall:
How you feel about this issue will depend on whether you can remember a lot of the images in this issue when they were first taken. Myself, I have the images featured, from magazines I bought in the early 90s, so I’ve seen all of this before in its entirety, so this issue feels rather empty to me. It’s a great idea to focus on supermodels and mix up the old and the new, but there’s neither enough depth to bring any new aspect to the images, nor any fresh images to capture the imagination anew – for me.
However, if you weren’t buying magazines 15 years ago, this is quite a good issue to get, because it’s an introduction to a lot of things you might not have seen before, shown alongside modern-day models. If I hadn’t seen most of the stuff before, I’d be a lot more excited about this issue than I am.
I’d say: thumbs up for having a theme, explored all the way through the issue, with old and new images, and not an actress in sight."
Isnt the french vogue with Daria on the cover from march? i thought i read that in her thread
-- just never into her face
Sorry guys! Is it Iselin? I think it's her! 6 pages!
12 pages!
Shame i don't read a word of Japanese! 
