Which F/W 07.08 collections are your favourites and why?

Diorling were you reading my mnd when you wrote that worst list??? Apart frmo Heatherette and Dior your list is exactly how I feel. ESPECIALLY Marc Jacobs and Karl.
 
Phi, Balenciaga, Dolce & Gabbana (bits and pieces), and Versace (bits and pieces)
 
Diorling said:

Worst:


  • Marc Jacobs - So completely contrived, I cannot believe Marc is trying to pretend like he has a chic bone in his body. I did like the jewlery however.
  • Louis Vuitton - Take Marc's mainline, make it crappier and you've got Louis Vuitton, the bag atrocities don't help thier case either.
  • Armani - He's not worth reviewing anymore, it's always a snooze.
  • Dior - Unfortunately, I was completely underwhelmed by this collection, everything was sooo off and soo completely uninspired I couldnt let the amazing bags deter this decison.
  • Fendi - After two amazing seasons Karl goes back to producing straight up CRAP for Fendi, everything is terrifying.
  • Chanel - The quilted satin bags can't help this absolutely terrible collection. It literally makes me wanna puke. Horrid.
  • Gareth Pugh, Heatherette, Giles Deacon, Jeremy Scott - They're all not worth my time, all sucked supremely.


perhaps we should start a seperate, "worst of the season" thread- it might be interesting- mods?
 
wheneveriwakeup said:
Favorites
PARIS
- Anne Valerie Hash (a bit of a rebirth for her... )
- Txell Miras / Cibeles (Tenebrous and passionate...every single piece was special and beautifully complicated.)
- Sharon Wauchob (The draping and use of fabrics were supreme. Melancholic and beautiful... clothes to dream about.)
- Ann Demeulemeester (The delicate side of Ann and the jackets/skirts were flawless.)
- Givenchy (Tisci as an architect with fabric.)
- Charles Anatase (A fairytale I would escape to any day...!)
- Hartmann Nordenholz (Most individual collection, imo. They were finally able to thoroughly realize the beauty of their ambition.)
- Boudicca (A triumphant comeback. Already has made an impact on me with such little press.)
NEW YORK
- Zam Barrett (the skirts...! The cut and 'sharpness' of it all.)
- Vera Wang (heavily inspired by the Belgians but a beautiful inspiration, nonetheless.)
- Calvin Klein (A fresh, effective take on minimalism.)
- Zero Maria Cornejo (Flawless from start to finish.)
LONDON
- Margaret Howell (quirky conservatism @ it's best.)
- Victim by Mei Hui Liu (The lace detailing was precious and inspired.)
- Bora Asku (Very special clothing - really set a tone and mood for me.)
Honorable mentions
- Noir
- TSE by Tess Giberson
- Emma Cook
- Yohji Yamamoto
- Alena Akhmadullina
- Robert Normand
- Junya Watanabe
- Tao
- Lutz
- Dries Van Noten
- Rue de Mail by Martine Sitbon
- Sonia Rykiel
- Vanessa Bruno
Disappointments
- Alexander McQueen (The technique was there but the innovation was absent.)
- Comme Des Garcons (Amusing but lacked the usual CDG vigor.)
- Sophia Kokosalaski/Vionett (I can't wrap my head around the pitt of mediocrity she has, as of late, fallen into. Completely boring and safe.)
- Marni (Missing the charm and individualism of earlier collections.)
- Vivienne Westwood (Seems like her heart is no longer in it, sadly.)
- Peter Jensen (Missing his signature of whim.)
- Lanvin (Toooooo 'glam' and a bit tacky @ times, oddly enough.)
- Preen (Horrible shapes, disgusting colors and those sheer stockings... bad taste.)
- UNDERCOVER (A waste of talent and fabric..)
yours and mine kind of correlate. and i completely forgot Mei Hui and some others :o

But great picks and great assesments :wink:
 
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Best:
1. John Galliano - Perfect mix of theatrics and beautiful clothing. He delivered here what I was hoping for McQueen to do.
2. Nina Ricci - I actually like Theysken's work for Ricci better than Rochas, it has the same impecable craftmanship he showed at Rochas, but more interesting clothes (IMO...I know I'm alone but I wasn't too big a fan of Rochas, although i loved f/w06)
3. Givenchy - A smart evolution of his HC. The clothes were just beautiful, i loved it all
4. Versace - 3rd season in a row Donatella's hit the mark for me. I absolutely loved the popping colors, they really made the clothing which could have been boring become exciting
5. Marc Jacobs - I thought it was very different for MJ, but thats why I loved it. It seemed like an appropriate follow up to his flapper-style spring collection

On the fence:
1. Alexander McQueen - instead of beautiful clothing and wonderful dramatic settings, he delived a wierd setting with nice clothes that were ok. I probably set my expectations too high, as this was my most anticipated collection of the season, but I was a little dissapointed after having two such amazing collections back to back
2. Balenciaga - I was really starting to like Nic's new approach to the balenciaga house during the last few seasons, and although i like this new collection and his older asthetic, it was a bit of a let down in terms of "wow"
3. Dior - The clothes were nice but I can't help but feel a lot of it was left over haute couture.
4. Viktor&Rolf - I'm really waiting to see what the clothes look like off the hangers, could be beautiful

Worst:
1. The Usuals - Heatherette, Baby Phat, Dolce & Gabbana, Armani, etc
2. Prada - I know it's different, but it's so ugly, and I just can't see anyone wearing any of this
3. Undercover - Soooo boring. What the hell happened?
4. Chloe - I like some of those messenger bags but that's about it. Way too Marni
5. Lanvin - I LOVED s/s07, and i thought pre-fall 07 was beautiful. What happened?
 
MY TOP TEN

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Alessandro Dell'Acqua - It was such a departure for him - it was harder and sportier, but still sleek and chic.​

http://www.***************/image/2007/Q1/021920071849233799.jpg​

Blugirl - It was just too cute.​

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Christian Dior - I don't care if it was a lesser version of couture - it was still better than 90% of the other crap this season.​

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Elie Saab - Lovely and gorgeous.​

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Givenchy - A big surprise from Tisci. This is the first collection from him that I've truly liked.​

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Marc Jacobs - Reluctantly, I'm putting this on the list. Very reluctantly.​

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Missoni - It was just so smart and chic. I don't know any other way to describe it.​

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Moschino - It never fails me.​

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Nina Ricci - Quite possibly the best of them all.​

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Versace - I loved the colors and the pared-down sexiness.

style.com; elle.com​
 
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Biggest Disappointments
Alberta Ferreti
Balenciaga
Chloe
Gucci
Matthew Williamson
Proenza Schouler
Roberto Cavalli
Yves Saint Laurent

I'd show pictures for these, but I really don't think there's any need to relive the nightmares.


 
the mens collection this season was bad, very bad. ann d did what was expected though.

for womenswear, probably hacker ackermann.
 
Marc Jacobs

Balmain

Missoni

i have no straight answer to WHY i liked them.... Guess cos i would wear most of the clothes,if not all from this shows...
 
Not a very good season, I'm afraid...

Best

Balenciaga - Absolutely fantastic! The blazers, the pants, and the dresses all are top-notch and wonderful. The colors may be garish on some pieces, but it works as a whole.
Nina Ricci - Olivier's did a great job. He didn't make a splash or anything, but I doubt that he meant to.
Yves Saint Laurent - It took a while, but it grew on me. Sans the tuxedos that closed the show, it was a big improvement from a disappointing spring.
Marc Jacobs - I was ambivalent at first, but after seeing everyone else, it looks good in comparison.
Louis Vuitton - An incredible palette and some gorgeous styling really helped. Sadly the accessories weren't as great.
Miu Miu - Again, great colors. I was afraid I wasn't going to like it, but I love the fact that by themselves, the clothes aren't intellectual or "Miuccia".

Medium

Givenchy - A solid collection, but there were a few things I didn't like: namely, the studs, and it didn't measure up to the recent couture collection.
Chloé - I like the new Chloé. It's refreshing to see a different side to the brand with less retro and feminine touches.
Chanel - I'm happy Karl chose to use colors, but the pieces looked awkward and, apart from the evening dresses, weren't even that attractive.
Fendi - The colors in this collection were wonderful and a departure from the last two seasons. However, some individual parts were, in a word, wonky.
Hermés - I love seeing such an urban-cool Hermès woman. However, I think that this show is more of a fantasy than the reality of the socialite who will buy the collection.
John Galliano - It's great that Galliano brought on the theatrics full throttle, and the clothes, too, were excellent. It's not quite my taste, though.

Worst

Prada - Just because a designer is famed for her intelligence doesn't make everything she churns out of her head genius. I prefer style over substance any day when it comes to fashion.
Dolce & Gabbana - A toned-down, less-inspired version of their spring show. And there weren't even that many good pieces to begin with!
Gucci - I liked Frida's fierce woman over her new 40's glamour queen.

Disappointments:

Alexander McQueen - His last two collections were superb, put this is gothic and ugly. He could have done so much more.
Vionnet - The promotional photos looked great, but the first full collection was lacking a certain something that I really can't put my finger on.
Christian Dior - John showed an extremely creative collection during couture week, but it seems he ran dry when it came to ready-to-wear. Most of the pieces are just cheaper versions of what he showed earlier.
 
Narcisco Rodriguez

What a great collection to come out of New York. It was so direct and so clear which is something that is great about New York. And it actually resulted in some amazing clothes rather than glorified sportswear and high school formal dresses.

Jil Sander

great dresses, easy and wearable tailored pieces. This is really for an older customer, but a chic one nonetheless

Versace

lord knows they would never have made my top list before but this was a fun spirited collection and I think Donatella (with help from christopher kane) is on the right track. There's never been a more apt time to bring Versace back to its former glory.

Yves Saint Laurent

Easily my favorite collection of the season. It was really all about the accessories (black lizard hoods!) and the coats and jackets. The tailoring was otherwordly, the look was impeccably chic. To me this was the boldest and most innovative collection. I really felt I saw something new.

Givenchy

Ricardo made the most delicious collection. It was full of retail hits while still moving forward. He did a lot of difficult pieces (the pants and the blouses) and executed them flawlessly.

Lanvin

There's been so many great Lanvin collections in the past couple of years, this is no exception. While it's not my favorite from him I did think Alber has made such a fresh and beautiful look. It had the kind of dresses you could just throw on and waltz out the door with little to no care, it's that good and easy. And the shoes were amazing!

Martin Margiela

This collection was succint, he had a clear idea and drove it all the way home. The shoulders, the pants, the jackets, all so great, so bold! I really expect to see a lot of the ideas in this collection to transfer over to next season. Look out!

Haider Ackermann

The sleeper hit of the season. I honestly was not even thinking about him and when I did see his collection it really became clear what a talent he is. He makes the most interesting and wearable clothes shown in all of Paris. He's clearly the one to watch next season.


close but no cigar

Balenciaga: Oh Nicholas, you had a good thing going with those lux ethnic patterns and the nipped waists at the end of the show but the jodphurs and the prep school jackets were much too juvenille.

Calvin Klein: I loved it until I saw the Jil Sander show. Costa's collection had some great pieces but in the end it was Raf's clothes that I would choose. It's a battle of the minimalists truely.

Chloe: A rocky start, it had some great ideas but lacked the finesse that Yvan Mispleare, despite the criticism he recieved, was able to handle quite well.

Nina Ricci: This was, contrary to Chloe, a good start for Olivier. However, I think he was too preoccupied in not making the same fumbles he did at Rochas and it resulted in some uninspired daywear. The eveningwear was nice but really much to messy and frothy for my taste.

Marc Jacobs: I loved the shoes, the clothes were great, but I didn't feel as compelled into wishing I was a woman to wear the clothes as I was with many of the Paris shows. In the end he makes good clothing...but for conservative women.
 
I liked a lot of other shows like Giambattista Valli, Hermes, Lacoste, United Bamboo, and Burberry Prosum but none of them did anything to make me stand at attention and take notice.
 
Top 10 are probably....

1.Preen
2.Cosmic Wonder
3.Jeremy Laing
4.Mathew Ames
5.Martin Margiela
6.Veronique Leroy
7.Rick Owens
8.Haider Ackerman
9.Ann Sofie Back
10.Vena Cava/Richard Nicoll
 
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Hmm, my top collections right now (might change) are:

John Galliano
Nina Ricci
Givenchy
Miu Miu
Prada
Dolce & Gabbana
Marc Jacobs
Jean Paul Gaultier

And prob some more but I cannot think of them right now. Also, I have to say, that Dior is starting to grow on me a lot. The 40's vide is very appealing and kinda classic Dior...but next time, no hotpink or bright yellows please!

PS: This season seemed to be so much about going back to your roots. Galliano, Gaultier, Pilati from a YSL point of view, Miuccia back to a more 1999/2000 aesthetic for both lines. It seems a backslash from the futurism that ruled last season.
 
favorites off the top of my head:
Givenchy, Miu Miu, Prada, Versace, Fendi, Dior

(i'm afraid it wasnt too strong of a season)
 

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