Not a very good season, I'm afraid...
Best
Balenciaga - Absolutely fantastic! The blazers, the pants, and the dresses all are top-notch and wonderful. The colors may be garish on some pieces, but it works as a whole.
Nina Ricci - Olivier's did a great job. He didn't make a splash or anything, but I doubt that he meant to.
Yves Saint Laurent - It took a while, but it grew on me. Sans the tuxedos that closed the show, it was a big improvement from a disappointing spring.
Marc Jacobs - I was ambivalent at first, but after seeing everyone else, it looks good in comparison.
Louis Vuitton - An incredible palette and some gorgeous styling really helped. Sadly the accessories weren't as great.
Miu Miu - Again, great colors. I was afraid I wasn't going to like it, but I love the fact that by themselves, the clothes aren't intellectual or "Miuccia".
Medium
Givenchy - A solid collection, but there were a few things I didn't like: namely, the studs, and it didn't measure up to the recent couture collection.
Chloé - I like the new Chloé. It's refreshing to see a different side to the brand with less retro and feminine touches.
Chanel - I'm happy Karl chose to use colors, but the pieces looked awkward and, apart from the evening dresses, weren't even that attractive.
Fendi - The colors in this collection were wonderful and a departure from the last two seasons. However, some individual parts were, in a word, wonky.
Hermés - I love seeing such an urban-cool Hermès woman. However, I think that this show is more of a fantasy than the reality of the socialite who will buy the collection.
John Galliano - It's great that Galliano brought on the theatrics full throttle, and the clothes, too, were excellent. It's not quite my taste, though.
Worst
Prada - Just because a designer is famed for her intelligence doesn't make everything she churns out of her head genius. I prefer style over substance any day when it comes to fashion.
Dolce & Gabbana - A toned-down, less-inspired version of their spring show. And there weren't even that many good pieces to begin with!
Gucci - I liked Frida's fierce woman over her new 40's glamour queen.
Disappointments:
Alexander McQueen - His last two collections were superb, put this is gothic and ugly. He could have done so much more.
Vionnet - The promotional photos looked great, but the first full collection was lacking a certain something that I really can't put my finger on.
Christian Dior - John showed an extremely creative collection during couture week, but it seems he ran dry when it came to ready-to-wear. Most of the pieces are just cheaper versions of what he showed earlier.