Who is really behind your favorite label?

Great thread. It could shed some much needed light on the real industry.
Too often we all give the designer themselves the glory or the blame for a collection even though in reality it is the collaboration of many, many people...from internal and external designers (and even assistants or stages) to product managers to creative directors, stylists!....
The original designer is often merely a figure head especially when it comes to large companies.
 
This is a great thread. I always wonder who is really behind the designing of big name houses and such.
 
awesome thead berlin :woot:
..and thx to everyone for the info already

very enlightening indeed
 
It's Silvia Venturini Fendi, she's also responsible for the women's shoes & bags at Fendi. Fendi has been very open to the press about her designing some lines.

is it really her? so good to know! i thought it was someone else (someone unkwnown/unrelated to the family! i like her!! and like what she does for the womenswear too!!
 
^ yes, it's really her ^_^...and as far as I'm informed..Karl doesn't design too much for Fendi..I heard he rarely visits the Fendi ateliers and HQ :innocent:
 
Great thread. It could shed some much needed light on the real industry.
Too often we all give the designer themselves the glory or the blame for a collection even though in reality it is the collaboration of many, many people...from internal and external designers (and even assistants or stages) to product managers to creative directors, stylists!....
The original designer is often merely a figure head especially when it comes to large companies.

You're right. I tend to see comments on this forum implying that most users assume the "face" of the label is the actual designer. This is RARELY ever the case. I've been with three high-end (and very well-known) design houses thus far, and each have a production chain that rarely involves hands-on design treatment from the face of the company. Usually, he was the ultimate "yay or nay" vote in the chain or determined what directions we'd take (theme-wise), but that's it.
 
Kind of surprised that alber doesn't do Lanvin's menswear.
 
who was the designer that passed away and he used to design for dior, but galliano got all the credit...as so ive heard
 
interesting... but it does make lot of sense. fashion is a buisness, and like a buisness it takes a team to make it truly successful.

now as for people getting credit they shouldn't... :innocent:
 
I hope someone here will be able to tell me.
So, when they show Karl or Valentino doing these little s..h..itty sketches of dresses. Is it ALL they do???
I mean, do they just pass these little picture to a team of faceless workers who than interpret it? Or they control the design from start to finish? Somehow I doubt. But I'd like someone involved in the industry explain further.
We had a little thread about who really designs those handbags. Like that Gryson girl for Marc Jacobs. I really wonder if that's the case with most of the brands out there.
Also, I am very pissed about this situation. I guess this is buisiness. But with something like McQ - Mcqueen has absolutely nothing to do with the label, excpet the name, the quality is Zara-esque yet a saw a blazer for, like, 500$... makes me so angry :angry:
 
lets first of all distinguish what is what....the only non-designer designer role is in these massive houses and big franchised labels. i think any designer deemed creative director explains everything.

but ann demeulemeester for instance i'm sure does actually design and dictate her own work as does dries and rick owens et al. but yeah this is old news really. we all knew somebody like pheobe philo had more impact on chloe whilst under mccartney. and i thought everybody knew lanvin's men's was designed by somebody else? if you think about it,alber has never really done menswear ever so i never thought that was him. but lanvin has never been dishonest about that fact though,they always put the designer in the same light as elbaz.
 
and comme des garcons' many labels are designed by other people too. i know tricot at the time before branching out in her own namesake was designed by tao--still is i believe.
 
McQ is done by a company called Como Designs formerly called Club 21 (as in the retail store) which also does Armani Exchange, DKNY Jeans(Europe and Asia), Luella Bartley Jeans, and Mulberry.



is that truee????
i didnt know that!
hmm
 
but lanvin has never been dishonest about that fact though,they always put the designer in the same light as elbaz.

well not always, but lately they have been clearing things up. It just seems a bit strange Alber makes his bow at the menswear too, while in fact he has very little to do with it.

It's not really shocking, it happens all the time. You can hardly expect Karl Lagerfeld to design every single piece for the 7 collections he 'designs' per season..
 
what about Balenciaga, Nicolas Ghesquiere?
 
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I hope someone here will be able to tell me.
So, when they show Karl or Valentino doing these little s..h..itty sketches of dresses. Is it ALL they do???
I mean, do they just pass these little picture to a team of faceless workers who than interpret it? Or they control the design from start to finish? Somehow I doubt. But I'd like someone involved in the industry explain further.
We had a little thread about who really designs those handbags. Like that Gryson girl for Marc Jacobs. I really wonder if that's the case with most of the brands out there.
Also, I am very pissed about this situation. I guess this is buisiness. But with something like McQ - Mcqueen has absolutely nothing to do with the label, excpet the name, the quality is Zara-esque yet a saw a blazer for, like, 500$... makes me so angry :angry:

if you watch signe chanel, the documentary (available on youtube) you'll see it's not like he does the whole process at all, but he supervises. he does the sketching as you said, then explains what the new collection is like to the "premières d'atelier" who direct small groups of seamstresses. Then he has to control how every outfit evolves down to the day of the fitting, when he styles it with accessories. it's an inmense job he does, as he is the one with the whole responsibility. the styling, every look, cohesiveness throughout the collection, the setting, the music, the campaign... he doesnt create it all himself, how could he! and we must keep in mind that if people dont like, say the setting, it will be his fault! and we all know even if he didnt get down and dirty painting the huge chanel jacket in grand palais... still he gets credit for it! it's the same thing with the clothes.
in the same video you see a girl who seems more responsible of the shoes, just guessing, but besides knowing how he wants them to look like, karl just cant tell you exactly how the shoe has to be designed. i am not even talking about producing it (massaro does that), but designing the shoes is something that a different designer who is specialized in shoes must do, no?

just one more thing in defence of my dear karl (or designers in general) is that, as also karl emphasizes in one of his interviews, he may rarely "touch fabric", not to mention a needle... but if ever a seamstress needs his help on how to create a cut/volume/shape/proportion, he has to know exactly what to tell her. And thanks to his vast experience, he's got the skills and know-how to indicate her precisely how she has to do it, without necessarily doing it himself.


for other creative designers, whose case i dont know so well, i would say that they of course need a team that develops their ideas. after all, they are the ones setting the mood of the season to come, and to develop certain ideas, not actual designs. it seems like it's not a lot of work maybe, or not such a big deal... but again, think of it as a matter of responsibility: if they do wrong, it's their head that the company wants.they are the ones getting fired, when suzy menkes says she no likes!

a last note, i do agree with you on second lines that are actually only licences for the name... so it's plain quality clothing + expensive label attached... it stinks!!:yuk:
 
who was the designer that passed away and he used to design for dior, but galliano got all the credit...as so ive heard
where did u hear galliano got all the credit...? :ninja: i think it was yves saint laurent who worked there and died sort of recently
 
actually it was his assistant,stephen robinson,who was beside him creatively since his early days at CSM as well as dior...he had a heart attack. everybody said his input on the work john produced was enormous.

YSL isn't dead though,gius.
 
ah! ^ i remember reading that now .. :o
LOL
thanks for clearing it up about YSL :blush:
how many times have i thought he had died and said so :wacko:
 

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