PARIS, October 2, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
The list of invitees to
Yohji Yamamoto's Marais headquarters was much shorter than usual. Is he scaling back? Many would guess yes, judging by the relatively risk-free, commerce-friendly collection he sent out. Safe it may have been, compared to his more typically conceptual fare, but (with a soundtrack that included "Detroit Rock City") it was also remarkably fun and upbeat—and all the more irresistible because those are such unexpected adjectives to be tossing around at a Yohji show.
He opened with a fitted black shirt with a popped collar and puffed sleeves worn over a long slim skirt. Karlie Kloss' hair was teased, her long bangs partly obscuring a face painted white, with feathers pasted onto her eyebrows above bright squares of green. (OK, so maybe the hair and makeup weren't quite so tame.) From there, Yamamoto riffed a bit, showing boned single- and double-breasted jackets with (surprise!) miniskirts and long, crisp white shirtdresses unbuttoned over black shorts or skinny pants. There were a few side trips into black leather motorcycle jackets; a couple of black suits dotted with circular cutouts; a group of pieces tattered by lasers; and, finally, an abbreviated rerun of the whole lineup, this time in calico.
No highfalutin themes to parse, no tricky constructions. That might disappoint some acolytes, but retailers will be another story entirely.