Yves Saint Laurent S/S 04 Paris | Page 4 | the Fashion Spot

Yves Saint Laurent S/S 04 Paris

Perfect for a sexy night in bed, Tom ford always delivers when it comes to give that sexy, sultry touch to a collection
 
God— his castings back then for YSL and Gucci were such effortless and unyielding perfection. Such impossibly alluring, demanding women— and I wouldn’t have it any other way.

It’s astounding how well he cut satin for both suiting and dresses as opposed to his recent collection where the full-pants in satin look amateur and cheap by comparison (this lesser era absolutely is poisoning the remaining Greats to get lazy and sloppy with their work…). The bias-cut/handkerchief-hemmed dresses is so not Tom Ford and seemed to be very early-90s Karl’s Chloe influenced on first glance. But on closer inspection, the balance of cascading satin and chiffon off hardbodies is engineered with all the razor-sharpness that is pure Tom Ford decadence and smoulder, and with that Diana Ross hair, it’s lethal. Such a powerful and creative era in fashion— to escape back into in these lesser days.

(Damn, that zebra-skin runway is so shamelessly and joyously Playboy-decadent.)
 
Opulence by Tom Ford! The satin years!
Real diamonds, excess of silk jersey, satin and chiffon. Swarovski everywhere, all shown in the box at the Rodin museum!

A very great collection and a new territory for Tom who touched on Flou even in tailoring. The collection is very constructed but is also a real masterclass in cut and techniques. Tom really became a great designer at YSL as being close to a Couture DNA and having access to a strong atelier really gave him the tools to express his vision in a more elevated way.

Even if it’s mostly an eveningwear collection, the eveningwear part was fabulous! The press loved it and Pierre Bergé was even more mad than before!
Even if he had pantsuits and some smokings here and there before, this was the first time he put the focus on a modern smoking and pantsuit as a fil conducteur of the collection...

The pragmatism of Tom at that time was used in a very clever way. He sold a lot of soft fabrics and made collections composed of mostly soft fabrics....

Doing the 20’s through the 70’s for the 00’s was indeed, as you mentionned @Phuel, more a Karl’s thing than Yves. And Yves’s flou was very different from Karl’s. That’s why this collection was so great for Tom...He moved on from Halston and American designers or even Yves and went to a new territory. And I like the idea of Tom being perverse enough to reference Karl (who supported him) at YSL.
 
^^^ I knew you’d love love love this, Lola LOL The flow and softness but in geometric shapes is very Karl.

Tom’s version of Le Smoking pantsuit is stunningly masterful, and still accessible and flattering. Back then tho— it was likely just another collection since the standards were so high. It stands out so well today. It’s such a pleasure to revisit these collections from a supreme era in high fashion— but also depressing since the standards just blatantly aren’t anywhere close to being up there anymore. (I want Yohji to post more to get lost in but also don’t want to be reminded of just how creatively brilliant the industry was back then…)
 
These old Tom YSL collections bring back so many good memories. This is the kind of fashion that just gives you thrill after thrill each and every viewing. The glamour! The luxury! The set! The models! The lighting! The clothes! The music! Bursting with energy and attitude and total, absolute fabulousness.
 
^^^ Creatively, this era was the Golden Years of high fashion. We are in the depths of the Dark Ages now. A Renaissance will surely rise…
 

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