YSL: On stage, screen and music hall
The little black dress looks as prissy and pristine as when it covered Catherine Deneuve's sensual passion in "Belle de Jour." But those shoes! Surely the Luis Buñuel movie of 40 years ago is famous to fashionistas for black patent silver-buckle shoes?
Yet the film running on video beside the costume exhibit proves that the Pierre Bergé Yves Saint Laurent foundation got it right. Deneuve changed her Roger Vivier shoes for higher-heeled pumps in the erotic scene where she strokes her blind husband after her return from prostituting herself.
Deneuve herself was present Wednesday at the opening of "Yves Saint Laurent: Théâtre, Cinéma, Music-Hall, Ballet" (until Jan. 27).
Exquisite sketches from the master's hand and walls of vintage photographs show the Art Deco-style gowns that Saint Laurent created for the French performer Arletty; while the couturier is photographed in his shy and spindly youth with the dancer Zizi Jeanmaire and the legendary costume and set designer Erté, as Romain de Tirtoff was known.
Betty Catroux, part of the YSL extended "family," alongside the onetime culture minister Jack Lang, gazed at vast sugar pink plumes wafting overhead, while Jeanmaire's famous (or should that be infamous?) feather dance filled the nearby screen. The sequined minidress she wore in 1962 proved how Saint Laurent predated the style of "Swinging London."
The couturier and costumier was not present at the opening night as he is now confined to a wheelchair. So Pierre Bergé showed guests around the exhibition and was host of the party.
Historic names like Jean Cocteau and Christian Bérard pop up in the show, but the latter only as the originator of the set of Cocteau's "The Two-Headed Eagle" (L'Aigle à deux Têtes) which Saint Laurent restaged in 1978. His extravagant design of a gilded carved eagle and Byzantine costumes for the queen are the focus of the exhibition's second room.
Fascinating as the drawings and costumes are, the real surprise comes in the catalogue, which lists just how many productions Saint Laurent has done: 13 plays from 1964 to 1983; eight ballets in 14 years; 10 music hall productions, including one for France's perennial rocker Johnny Hallyday; and 10 movies, from "Belle de Jour" to Luc Besson's "Subway" (1985) with Isabelle Adjani.
As Deneuve put it: "Yves's theatrical sensitivity is so profound that he really needs to express it on stage and on the screen."
Fondation Pierre Bergé Yves Saint Laurent, 5 Avenue Marceau, 75016 Paris.