Alexander McQueen S/S 11 Paris

[kiddokiddo]

Very true to Lee, with less severe tailoring...a softer, pagant approach. There are too many dreses IMO. It doesn't move me the way Lee could though

 

[Zann]

I know someone said this before earlier in the thread but it's like... almost everything she does is a double edged sword.

Once she starts moving on to her own point of view, will everyone turn on her because it's "not McQueen enough" or will we all still be enthusiastic and support her? I know it all depends on what exactly she does but I'm still curious about it.

I think Sarah is smart not to take on the task of producing a theatrical show. She could try it and fail miserably and everyone would tear it to pieces. I'd rather her put all her effort into the clothes than the set/design. I think we'd appreciate the clothes more. She's not messing around imo.

 

[chloehandbags]

Ok, first of all Id like to give a BIG BRAVO to Sarah and her ovaries of STEEL!

Love that description!

Really, though, can you imagine the pressure she must be under?

Having said that, she seems to be really focussed and is just carrying on, more-or-less, as usual; so all power to her.

 

[chloehandbags]

I know someone said this before earlier in the thread but it's like... almost everything she does is a double edged sword.

Once she starts moving on to her own point of view, will everyone turn on her because it's "not McQueen enough" or will we all still be enthusiastic and support her? I know it all depends on what exactly she does but I'm still curious about it.

I think Sarah is smart not to take on the task of producing a theatrical show. She could try it and fail miserably and everyone would tear it to pieces. I'd rather her put all her effort into the clothes than the set/design. I think we'd appreciate the clothes more. She's not messing around imo.

Yes and also, I really liked the idea of nature reclaiming everything, eventually, with the weeds coming up through the decking and gradually covering the shoes and clothes.

I thought it was kind of poignant, considering the circumstances, too.

 

[chloehandbags]

I think you are taking this way out of context.

From what I've observed from fashion history, the most relevant female fashion designers such as Coco Chanel, Donna Karan, and now Pheobe Philo, what they all have in common is their understanding of women and their needs because they themselves are women.

From what they have given through their designs, they allowed women to be liberal from both the physical and the metaphysical form. These women designers, through clothing, gave women confidence to pursue their aspirations and not to conform with the stereotypes of what women should and shouldn't be. Allowed women to function in their daily lives as a mother, a wife, a woman in pursue of her hopes and dreams. All without loosing the true essence of being a woman.

Ultimately, a fashion designer's job in it's pure form is to provide clothes to people so that they can function in real life.

Thanks for the reply.

Yes, I see all that and I tend to agree, to a certain extent, but what I still don't understand is why you seem to think that we would accept a more fantastical collection from a man, but not from a woman?

I don't see why, just because women tend to produce more wearable collections, a woman would be, automatically, rejected (by other women) for producing something less easily wearable; whereas a man wouldn't?

Especially when she is designing for an already established house, with an established aesthetic.

 

[WidowOfCulloden]

The dresses are beautiful, i'm not gonna lie. But i can't help but noticing the lack of inspiration. The collection looks like a combination of what McQueen has already done in several previous collections of his. I'm talking about the feathers, the butterflies, the prints, the golden details etc all together. I totally agree with the person who said that it looked like a 'best of' collection.

Plus, i know that any sentimental crap doesn't belong in fashion industry, which is a very tough place to be, but still, it doesn't feel so right to me that they decided to keep the Alexander McQueen house going even though Lee McQueen had stated that he wouldn't like the house to go on without him as a designer. I also know that with so much money involved, it would be unrealistic for a house that big to close, but still...Anyway, maybe it's just me.

 

[csmboy]

you said it...and i agree...

how to interpret mcqueen and make it relevant and practical is a far greater challenge than simply paying homage...

and from a practical standpoint...
i don't think sales were so great, even when lee was still around...

my real observation here has to do with the cut and fit of the pieces...
when you do drama on this level...
the execution is crucial...
and we all know that lee was a master tailor...

that is the crucial element that is missing here, imho...
the fit and proportions are not quite right in a number of these looks...
but it really makes one appreciate lee's genius all the more...

the fact is, mcqueen was about £32M in debt when he was alive anyway, and if he HAD designed this collection, there would be no batting of eyelids of self-referencing, because he did it all the time....Sarah did an amazing job, and have known her since she started in '95/'96, and know for a fact that she created a lot of the showpieces back then.....so guys cut her slack and applaud her for doing exactly the right collection.....'gradual transition' as Cathy Horyn said.....she can now grow the label....adding her personal touch with her knowledge of 15 years of working there.......everyone loves to treat Lee as a god, but without an amazing team wouldn't have mde it for so long....

 

[chloehandbags]

Plus, i know that any sentimental crap doesn't belong in fashion industry, which is a very tough place to be, but still, it doesn't feel so right to me that they decided to keep the Alexander McQueen house going even though Lee McQueen had stated that he wouldn't like the house to go on without him as a designer.

I think he may have said that at one time (in fact, I'm pretty sure he did), but his most recent stance was that he did want AM to continue after he was gone.

So, don't worry, they did follow his wishes.

BTW, I don't think your position is overly sentimental, at all - if a designer specifically says he doesn't want his house to continue, after his death (and that is his last wish), I think that should be adhered to, personally; business, or no business.

However, as I say, apparently that wasn't the case here.

 

[fiqary]

Hermmm, idk what to think about it, but it is still good. I love the heels! especially the one with the feathers!

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

before his suicide everyone was calling him Alexander, now it's Lee. How funny, like , hello, you were friends or something ?

 

[WidowOfCulloden]

@IloveDiorHomme
Lee McQueen is the name of the designer. It's not a shortened form for Alexander. Basically Alexander is his second name and even though people called him Lee, he decided to call the house Alexander McQueen after Isabella Blow (style icon and McQueen's mentor) advised him to. But his name was always Lee, not Alexander.

 

[chloehandbags]

^ I think he meant that everyone was calling him Alexander (even though that wasn't his Christian name) until he died and then, all of a sudden, everyone realised that his Christian name was Lee (as other people, some of whom knew him, were using it) and then started calling him that, as well (as if they knew him personally, too).

Not sure it really matters much, though?!

Getting someone's name right, even late in the day, could equally well be viewed as a sign of respect.

 

[WidowOfCulloden]

ΛΛ I don't think it's a big deal how to call him either.
I prefer to call him Lee when i'm referring to him as a designer so that the people i'm talking with know that i'm referring to the designer and not to the firm.
Anyway, Alexander or Lee, he still was a genius of fashion and will be missed dearly.

 

[Wolkfolk]

Easily one of the best collection of the season.
I was transported and transcended by almost every piece. She may not have all the talent and skills that Alexander's had, but still, IMO Sarah clearly proved to everyone who doubted about it that the house of Mcqueen can and will continue after Alexander.
He left an incredible and solid legacy that she truly delivered in that collection, from the first white Victorian suit to the final gowns. I mean the feather one on Jac and the last dress on Nimue gave me goosebumps, literally.
We all know that besides doing an amazing tailoring, Alexander also made amazing prints, and they were here as well as the alluring cuts and shapes.
There's something more sharp and body conscious than usual, but its still done in a way that the body's beauty is emphasized through completely exagerated shapes. I totally love this kind of paradox. So I'm giving huge credits to Sarah for transporting us to a dream, in a season where so many collections look like each other, its so great to escape a little bit and just enjoy.

 

[chloehandbags]

ΛΛ I don't think it's a big deal how to call him either.
I prefer to call him Lee when i'm referring to him as a designer so that the people i'm talking with know that i'm referring to the designer and not to the firm.
Anyway, Alexander or Lee, he still was a genius of fashion and will be missed dearly.

Yes, absolutely.

 

[williscrazy]

Great collection, though some of the pieces looks a bit awkward and made the models look short. I like the feminine approach in the collection, overall it's a success.

 

[KhaoticKharma]

Question: Perhaps I'm missing something (I go to university, so I'm not a fashion professional), but aren't most all collections a major, major collaborative? I notice that so many people attribute McQueen's greatness 100% to Lee, but if Sarah was director of womenswear before Lee's death, then didn't she play a HUGE role in the collections we've seen under the man himself? I find myself hesitating in saying that she's just copying Lee's work, because I think there's a very high likelihood that a lot of what we've seen in the past has indeed been her work.

 

[Inaya]

This totally lacks the finesse, drama and poetry that McQueen's hand produced so effortlessly.

 

[Benzo]

A very nice first collection! Hope she can convey a single idea next time; this time, it seems to lack a coherent theme.

If it were for Lee, I thought he would have tuned a bit of the proportion of each look to make them look more perfect.

 

[ilaughead]

Question: Perhaps I'm missing something (I go to university, so I'm not a fashion professional), but aren't most all collections a major, major collaborative? I notice that so many people attribute McQueen's greatness 100% to Lee, but if Sarah was director of womenswear before Lee's death, then didn't she play a HUGE role in the collections we've seen under the man himself? I find myself hesitating in saying that she's just copying Lee's work, because I think there's a very high likelihood that a lot of what we've seen in the past has indeed been her work.

I think you're right, she was most likely a lot more present than we give her credit for. However, to the best of my knowledge, Sarah worked mostly on the actual ready-to-wear line while Lee concentrated on the runway productions.