Ann Demeulemeester S/S 2024 Paris

[LadyJunon]

 

[LadyJunon]

I'm not sure how I feel about this collection, but it is interesting.

 

[Olaffo]

I've watched the show, analysed the runway and then compared it to LDsS's debiut. There is a chasm between them in favour of Stefano Gallici. He is focused, he had to create decent, understandable collection for Ann and, imho, he did succeed. I'll probably will go for one of men's suits and coats. I believe, based on what I saw, that he has a strong vision for the brand, he just needs few more season to feel comfortable. Time will tell. I'm immensely glad LDsS is out so we won't have to endure his "covering t*ts for the better merch" ideas etc.

 

[donyan]

this is by far the best collection they’ve done so far , and there’s real potential here imo . It’s still missing the particular sensuality and beauty of Ann’s best work but it’s a huge step in the right direction for me… and miles better than anything that was before.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

i has a workman-like vibe with all the aprons; lacking in sex appeal and poetics imo

 

[fenty]

Okay...

 

[ACastleOnACloud]

Much better than Ludovic's debut (and final) show. I wouldn't say it was excellent but it showed potential and felt exciting to me, and excitement is what I think a debut show should be about.

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Psylocke]

Hmm, it looks frumpy and kind of clumsy. Definitely not what I'd expect from the Ann D brand. Not a fan

 

[jeanclaude]

Brett Anderson from "Suede"?? That´s all I like from this show.

 

[LadyJunon]

Looking at this collection again, I really like it and it is a very good debut collection, better than Ludovic's. It was exciting, pulsating and it actually felt new. That said this collection is a bit visually cold and harsh, almost utilitarian. This is most likely because of Gallici's menswear background, but the collection really lacked the undertones of femininity, romance and sexuality that Ann's work had. The proposition veered almost Yohji-esque in a way.

Also this is the type of review designers get when they're neither a small independent fashion darling or a big powerful corporate fashion house:

Starting your show over an hour late is not the greatest way to make a first impression. Stefano Gallici, who was promoted from menswear designer to creative director at Ann Demeulemeester when Ludovic de Saint Sernin exited after just six months, wasn’t served by the distant venue or the near total darkness in which we waited either.

Having joined the brand in 2020, the twenty-something Gallici does have a decent handle on Demeulemeester signatures like androgynous tailoring and white shirts, and leather bibs and harnesses. The royal blue of a stretchy sheer dress looked like it was inspired by the same color in an iconic spring 1998 Demeulemeester show. Kirsten Owen, who appeared in the lineup tonight, walked that runway 25 years ago. But things were weighed down here by multi-pocketed pants and over-skirts and the ribbons that trailed off many of the looks and dragged on the runway—all 100 meters of it. Demeulemeester was a most poetical designer, but she also stood for a kind of rigor.

Pre-show, Gallici posted a hand-written note to his Instagram account that closed with a kind of mantra: “Awareness and respect, rather than deference and orthodoxy.” That sounds fair enough. Tastes have changed since Demeulemeester was making her definitive 1990s collections, and brands have become too comfortable with unfiltered reissues. What this sweeping collection lacked was its own sense of definitiveness. That may come with more time.

Source: Vogue Runway

 

[YohjiAddict]

Pharrell had them waiting for over four hours but you do not bite the hand that feeds…The collection is quite good, miles better than the train wrecks that this house had gotten us used to in the last few years, if he continues to improve I see hope for this brand…let’s all forget the male lingerie designer ever had anything to do with Ann’s name.

 

[FashionFanatico]

Even it's a bit costumey or Halloween inspired - there is also something intriguing and honest going on between. You can feel that he wants to push the brand – mabe it's not yet the right direction. But let's see. I'll give him credit to be able to impress us more with his next collection for AD. Good Luck.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Prefer this to the LDSS mess. Still not fully convinced but it does feel a little more genuine.

I do think it is a little too "costume" esque in a way that I feel Rick Owens is. But I suppose that is a result of their fan base that kind of heightens those elements due to their tribe/hive minded adoration for the brand and designers. Stray too far away from them and people will go "wheres the *insert designer name here* in this" on a very extreme level. Hard balance to achieve with labels like this.

 

[NoAdvertising71]

I think in his mind...Ann D is all about being provocative....and tie-strings.

Ann could be provocative....but not to this extent. She was more poetic than sexy in her esthetic.

Some of the pieces in this collection are actually good... but....justvtooo much usage or those damn tie strings. Pretty much every piece in the collection features them. It's too redundant.

But...I'll agree with most on the board. Maybe he just needs some more time to adapt and adjust.

 

[givenchypout]

it's honestly really not that much different from ldss' collection, whether you want to admit it or not, albeit lacking in sensuality.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Yeah tbh when I first watched I initially thought maybe Ludovic still was responsible for one more collection before he had to go. Altho the telltale sign he was not was the entirety of models did not look like him lol. I think it's better than last season but still... there are a couple looks that are quite the epitome of cringe. Like this going into samurai sword xD :3 autist territory... And some of the casting is just so so wrong. ALTHO, Natasa and Sonny Hall looked really hot lol

 

[susseinmcswanny]

AND I have had that repetitive beat stuck in my head since yesterday lol

 

[MulletProof]

there are a couple looks that are quite the epitome of cringe. Like this going into samurai sword xD :3 autist territory...

Yeah and what the f*ck is this. It's like a doodle based off some rough description of Ann Demeulemeester. Agreed on the casting too, it's actually quite representative of the collection.. half of it is really just complying with the assignment and revisiting recognisable Ann D elements and bringing back a sense of safety into the brand, and then there's the other half, which is lack of soul and a short-attention span, where each piece seems to have come to an abrupt finishing stage when they were somewhere at the 40%-75% stage of the process lol. They don't look unfinished, they look very much final and not rushed, it's more like he lost interest and couldn't care less about details or polishing, let alone perfection (which is impossible but.. you try). Similarly, the casting is 50% quintessentially Ann D (Kirsten, Delfine, even Marcel Castenmiller - who I thought was more than retired and living in the Canadian woods?!) and the other half is nepo/tik tok models, like he just thought of some names off the top of his head and didn't do much research, just like with the clothes!

... random but seeing Marcel made me think of Jamie del Moon and how nice it'd be to see him make a comeback at Ann Demeulemeester so I looked him up and.... he's dead!? what. RIP.