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APC Jeans
- Thread starter sbbbjm
- Start date
After emailing an apc.fr rep, I found out that the "New Standard Jean" has replaced all of the old Standards. He said that if you buy the regular "Standard Jean" in Indigo off of the website, you'll recieve the lower waisted newer version. So that's what I did. I ordered a 29, I'll post pics when they arrive.
I've been checking out this thread and thought I could offer some advice on APC dry denim.
There is no problem with actually washing your jeans, don't take the whole NEVER WASH YOUR JEANS YOU UNBELIEVER!!! thing as gospel. Now that being said there are two reasons for not wanting to wash your jeans:
1) You want to keep them in their NEW state (no fading of the indigo + no wear marks). If this is the case I would recommend occasional dry cleaning and maybe washing them by hand with zero for dark colors by Woolite. Zero is very mild and the indigo loss will be minimal. If you're really concerned about loosing some indigo just say so in the thread I'll recommend some detergents especially developed for denim used by wacky Japanese denim nerds. BTW if you liked how stiff they were when you first got them you might want to starch them to get the same effect, but they'll wear-out faster.
2) You want to have highly contrasting fading (almost no fading of the indigo with wear marks that are a lot paler usually located in the pocket and knee areas). The best way to do this is to wait a long time before washing your jeans because the longer you wait the more the indigo will have bled (because of the abrasion caused by daily wear) at some areas compared to the rest of the jeans. I would recommend something like 120 wearings, count them on a sheet of paper near your bed and disgust your girlfriend when she learns you haven't washed your jeans for 112 days. The tighter the jeans the bigger the abrasion, the higher the contrast fading. Starching them might help too since they'll be stiffer.
About the jeans becoming looser: they shrink back when you wash them and then stretch again when you wear them.
For the DH addicts looking for a tight jean: APC aren't DH, they have higher rise and are more 501ish (the classic Levi model). Now that being said you should try the "cure" model, you'll like it.
Different models:
-English now Rescue: baggier jean, selvedge
-New standard (sometimes called standard which was the name of the old model which had a slightly higher rise if I remember correctly
great cut, looks a lot like those classic Helmut Lang dry jeans, selvedge
-Cure (called tight jeans on the website non-selvedge, about as tight as the NS around the waist and thighs but slightly more tapered. Some of the tighter jeans on the market that don't have the dreaded 3% lycra (men and lycra are polar opposite, stay away...plus only 100% cotton jeans age gracefully....)
-Hipster (called women's jeans on the website fine for boys too, quite low rise and also very tight, less taper than new standards and especially cure.
About the sizing: APC jeans sizing is all over the place (heard they got better) so you might try 2 new standard jeans in the same size and find out that one is bigger than the other. Don't sweat it too much if you order online APC has a very good return policy (the best way to do it imho,if you got the cash flow, is to order the jeans you want in three different sizes and keep the best fit). If you try them in the store just get something really tight, almost uncomfortable because they'll stretch...unless you're looking for a baggier fit. As a rule of thumb you should wear 2 sizes smaller than your usual size. The problem is that this rule applies to a lot of other makers, so you better measure the waist of a pair you already have that fits you perfectly and order an APC 2 sizes lower than that measurement. E.g. if you measure the waist and it’s 32" order a size 30 and you should be okay. The best idea would be to follow my advice and get a size 28, 29, 30 and keep the best of the three.
Hope that helps.
There is no problem with actually washing your jeans, don't take the whole NEVER WASH YOUR JEANS YOU UNBELIEVER!!! thing as gospel. Now that being said there are two reasons for not wanting to wash your jeans:
1) You want to keep them in their NEW state (no fading of the indigo + no wear marks). If this is the case I would recommend occasional dry cleaning and maybe washing them by hand with zero for dark colors by Woolite. Zero is very mild and the indigo loss will be minimal. If you're really concerned about loosing some indigo just say so in the thread I'll recommend some detergents especially developed for denim used by wacky Japanese denim nerds. BTW if you liked how stiff they were when you first got them you might want to starch them to get the same effect, but they'll wear-out faster.
2) You want to have highly contrasting fading (almost no fading of the indigo with wear marks that are a lot paler usually located in the pocket and knee areas). The best way to do this is to wait a long time before washing your jeans because the longer you wait the more the indigo will have bled (because of the abrasion caused by daily wear) at some areas compared to the rest of the jeans. I would recommend something like 120 wearings, count them on a sheet of paper near your bed and disgust your girlfriend when she learns you haven't washed your jeans for 112 days. The tighter the jeans the bigger the abrasion, the higher the contrast fading. Starching them might help too since they'll be stiffer.
About the jeans becoming looser: they shrink back when you wash them and then stretch again when you wear them.
For the DH addicts looking for a tight jean: APC aren't DH, they have higher rise and are more 501ish (the classic Levi model). Now that being said you should try the "cure" model, you'll like it.
Different models:
-English now Rescue: baggier jean, selvedge
-New standard (sometimes called standard which was the name of the old model which had a slightly higher rise if I remember correctly
great cut, looks a lot like those classic Helmut Lang dry jeans, selvedge-Cure (called tight jeans on the website
non-selvedge, about as tight as the NS around the waist and thighs but slightly more tapered. Some of the tighter jeans on the market that don't have the dreaded 3% lycra (men and lycra are polar opposite, stay away...plus only 100% cotton jeans age gracefully....)-Hipster (called women's jeans on the website
fine for boys too, quite low rise and also very tight, less taper than new standards and especially cure.About the sizing: APC jeans sizing is all over the place (heard they got better) so you might try 2 new standard jeans in the same size and find out that one is bigger than the other. Don't sweat it too much if you order online APC has a very good return policy (the best way to do it imho,if you got the cash flow, is to order the jeans you want in three different sizes and keep the best fit). If you try them in the store just get something really tight, almost uncomfortable because they'll stretch...unless you're looking for a baggier fit. As a rule of thumb you should wear 2 sizes smaller than your usual size. The problem is that this rule applies to a lot of other makers, so you better measure the waist of a pair you already have that fits you perfectly and order an APC 2 sizes lower than that measurement. E.g. if you measure the waist and it’s 32" order a size 30 and you should be okay. The best idea would be to follow my advice and get a size 28, 29, 30 and keep the best of the three.
Hope that helps.
Okay I got my order today. Took about 4 days with standard shipping
I tried them on and I think I need to drop even lower in size. This 29 still leaves about an inch of space at the waist. Right now they feel pretty comfortable at the thighs...which is what we don't want haha. I have to say though, these jeans are beautiful, and I'm sad I have to wait another week or so for em. But it'll be worth it.
So yeah, size down twice for all you interested.
I tried them on and I think I need to drop even lower in size. This 29 still leaves about an inch of space at the waist. Right now they feel pretty comfortable at the thighs...which is what we don't want haha. I have to say though, these jeans are beautiful, and I'm sad I have to wait another week or so for em. But it'll be worth it. So yeah, size down twice for all you interested.keys said:Okay I got my order today. Took about 4 days with standard shipping
Out of curiosity did you measure the waist while the jeans were lying flat? Was the measurement 31"?
Black overdyed New Standard
Has anyone seen or tryed on the black overdyed New Standard APC jeans? If so, what's the color like? How thick and evenly applied is the dye? How black is it? And, is the sizing the same as the vintage new standard?
Has anyone seen or tryed on the black overdyed New Standard APC jeans? If so, what's the color like? How thick and evenly applied is the dye? How black is it? And, is the sizing the same as the vintage new standard?
magicclean
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I just bought the overdyed black when i was in tokyo, my first pair of APCs. i think they are pretty evenly dyed. compared to julian reds the fabric feels thinner and they are one wash, so they arent stiff. I would say that they are very black, but you might be able to sense a tinge of blue in it. Or maybe thats just me. I hope that helps. fittingwise i bought the same size as my julian reds.
I'd like to reach out to all the ladies (and maybe gentlemen) out there who know about/have a pair of the (women's) Vintage New Standards. What's the leg like? Is it slim and straight, slim and straight and tapered? What's the rise? I'm usually a 25/26 with most denim, should I go down a couple of sizes and recommended? Does anyone have a picture of anyone wearing a pair? I'd greatly appreciate it!
I think Holly Harnsongkram rocks these jeans in the picture here (from nymetro.com). But with her coat and the boots, I can't really tell how the jeans really look.
I think Holly Harnsongkram rocks these jeans in the picture here (from nymetro.com). But with her coat and the boots, I can't really tell how the jeans really look.
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spinster said:
Slim, straight and a slight taper. It's not extra slim and the taper isn't dramatic which makes it a more versatile (and classic) jean that say the cure model which is more akin to the present ultra-tight rocker fit. This comment applies to both men's and women's NS as there is no difference between them (NS is called "unisexe" in french as in "unisex" so it's supposed to be one model for men and women, women getting the smaller waist sizes...). Now that being said APC has been known to very slightly tweak their unisex models when they reach smaller (ie women) sizes to adapt to the female anatomy (less crotch space and lower rise). This might be the case but I don't remember for sure.
As for the sizing I'd really try a bunch of different sizes,23-24-25 and 26 being the most likely possibilities.
A final word of caution: if you go with vintage NS, make sure the fading beind the knees is actually beind YOUR knees, otherwise just get some raw ones and break them in yourself. I hate badly placed fading on a lady, or a men for that matter.
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I have the Hipster jeans. Very low rise with quite slim legs.
I normally wear a size 30 or 31 in other jeans and I got a size 29 for this. They were just a little snug when I bought them but after wearing them almost everyday for a week, the hips stretched a lot. So, to those prospective buyers out there, I'd recommend buying 3 sizes down. It should feel very tight at start but they will stretch to a more comfortable level with time.
Regarding the hygiene issue (if you're not planning on washing them for a few months), just make sure that you snap them hard before and after wearing, then hang them in a well ventilated area. You can also hang them outside where there's enough sunlight.
I normally wear a size 30 or 31 in other jeans and I got a size 29 for this. They were just a little snug when I bought them but after wearing them almost everyday for a week, the hips stretched a lot. So, to those prospective buyers out there, I'd recommend buying 3 sizes down. It should feel very tight at start but they will stretch to a more comfortable level with time.
Regarding the hygiene issue (if you're not planning on washing them for a few months), just make sure that you snap them hard before and after wearing, then hang them in a well ventilated area. You can also hang them outside where there's enough sunlight.
^^ Do you have the indigo or faded black wash? I have a friend with a new pair of faded black Hipsters and they are quite soft to the touch - leading me to think that they shouldn't stretch much. I'm considering purchasing a pair of the Narrow/Cure jeans in washed black and am thinking how much I should size down.
My experience has been similar - I've been wearing the the raw indigo New Standards for about two months now. I usually wear 29/30 in jeans and bought a 27. They were so tough and rigid (almost uncomfortable) at the beginning, but now they've stretched and moulded to my body, and are just starting to show signs of wear. I'm really beginning to feel like they are mine. I love them even more than my Diors now!
My experience has been similar - I've been wearing the the raw indigo New Standards for about two months now. I usually wear 29/30 in jeans and bought a 27. They were so tough and rigid (almost uncomfortable) at the beginning, but now they've stretched and moulded to my body, and are just starting to show signs of wear. I'm really beginning to feel like they are mine. I love them even more than my Diors now!
@ Avantster, I have the unwashed (raw) Hipsters. If you're planning on getting the washed models, I would suggest getting the ones that fit you well (not very tight).
I'm not familiar with the sizing for the washed models, hence, I'm not sure if a size 30 for the raw ones have the same exact dimensions compared to the size 30 washed ones. Does anybody know this?
My Hipsters are almost 9 months old now. So far, they've had only one wash (accidental) and one dry clean. They're really soft now, I should say. By the way, steer clear of wearing white or light colored shoes with a rough surface. Even up to this point, my jeans still bleed!
~~~~
Just a side note, I entered my name and address in the APC website's mailing list, and they sent me this cool catalogue! I have to say, it's pretty refreshing once in a while to browse a cataloge rather than going online.
I'm not familiar with the sizing for the washed models, hence, I'm not sure if a size 30 for the raw ones have the same exact dimensions compared to the size 30 washed ones. Does anybody know this?
My Hipsters are almost 9 months old now. So far, they've had only one wash (accidental) and one dry clean. They're really soft now, I should say. By the way, steer clear of wearing white or light colored shoes with a rough surface. Even up to this point, my jeans still bleed!
~~~~
Just a side note, I entered my name and address in the APC website's mailing list, and they sent me this cool catalogue! I have to say, it's pretty refreshing once in a while to browse a cataloge rather than going online.
I tried some APC's about a week ago because I was trying to find some good raw denim. Tried on the cure and the new standard, however the cure wasnt raw, they were washed. I liked the cure fit much better, the rise on the new standard was rediculous for me (I'm about 5'8") and it was just too much....also the smallest size they had was a 29 with was just too big, I usually wear a 30.
So at the store they had a few other options for raw's and I ended up with Rag&bones, size 28 waist. They've stretched considerably after wearing them everyday and arent quite as stiff anymore... I wish they were a little stiffer still and had a longer inseam, but I'm overall very pleased with them... they rock. They also have little buttons on the waistband for braces ;D
Only downside to these is that they were twice as much as the APC's. Came out to $280 with tax. I'm going to try and post pics in secret shopaholics soon if anyone cares to see them.
I do still plan on getting some APC's though, one of the lower-rised fits, I really liked them and wish they had a pair that fit me where I was, I guess I'll order some off their website.
So at the store they had a few other options for raw's and I ended up with Rag&bones, size 28 waist. They've stretched considerably after wearing them everyday and arent quite as stiff anymore... I wish they were a little stiffer still and had a longer inseam, but I'm overall very pleased with them... they rock. They also have little buttons on the waistband for braces ;D
Only downside to these is that they were twice as much as the APC's. Came out to $280 with tax. I'm going to try and post pics in secret shopaholics soon if anyone cares to see them.
I do still plan on getting some APC's though, one of the lower-rised fits, I really liked them and wish they had a pair that fit me where I was, I guess I'll order some off their website.
Steam: thanks for the info, I suspected as much. I think I'll just have to try them on in person rather than order them online. Haha, yeah my white canvas lo tops are getting a blue tinge, but I can live with that 
^^ I'll be looking out for your pictures trueblue.
The APC's made from selvedge denim (New Standards, English/Rescue/Straight Leg) are made in Japan. As for the others, I know the Hipsters are made in Macau. Don't know about the Narrow/Cure model.. Anyone?
^^ I'll be looking out for your pictures trueblue.
The APC's made from selvedge denim (New Standards, English/Rescue/Straight Leg) are made in Japan. As for the others, I know the Hipsters are made in Macau. Don't know about the Narrow/Cure model.. Anyone?
