Asian Faces In High Fashion

[Prymasquous]

^ Just to clarify:

Xiao Wen's first OG cover was indeed her Australian cover but that is a 'supplement' hence her April 2016 is her official OG cover.

If someone is wondering OG means Only Girl, not having to share the monthly cover with another model

More details here





P.S. There may be more Beauty/Supplement covers - just added a couple to fill the spaces

 

[Prymasquous]

Sometimes a fresh start is probably for the better.
For both parties.



Recent change in New York agencies from the following models:




Shu Pei: Next NY ---> DNA Models

Sui He: New York Models ---> Women NY

Sunghee: Wilhelmina NY ---> Women NY




A little update on the models whom made the switch. Any other models?​

 

[Prymasquous]

^ Quite astonished to see Women having more Asian on their current roster. Seriously. Even a few years back, Women NY did not have three Asian.

Very suprised but in a good way. Great for them (and hopefully things are all good).

Fei Fei, Sunghee, Xiao Xing, Julee Huang and Sui He are the faces to keep on watching.





The same could be said for DNA. Well, worse than Women actually.

They do now have Fernanda. And Shu Pei is off onto a clean slate.






Generally speaking, is there like a quota when it comes to Asian models and certain agencies?

Not to insinuate anything or single out an agency, but rather curious of the complex nature and operation behind agencies and whatnot. Just wonder what this could say or do on a macro level in terms of the seemingly disparity among Asian models... for example, the quality of work, because not having the 'best' management/agency/support.

Don't know. Just random, naivety thoughts rumbling.

 

[Prymasquous]

In addition, apart from the main board at Women, Women 360 do have:

Marga Esquivel, Jessica Gomes, Yulia Saparniiazova, Pritika Swarup and Lydia Wei

 

[Prymasquous]

Reviewing...



Concept Korea: DBYD FW16 - New York




Concept Korea: Ordinary People FW16 - New York



all deuxhomm.es


Greg Lauren FW16 - New York


theimpression.com


J. Crew FW16 - New York


vogue.com​

 

[Prymasquous]

Rag & Bone FW16 - New York (C)




Polo Ralph Lauren FW16 - New York




Pyer Moss FW16 - New York


all vogue.com​

 

[Prymasquous]

Alex Mullins FW16 - London




Barbour FW16 - London




Candyatom FW16 - London


all vogue.co.uk


Joshua Kane FW16 - London


essentialhomme.fr


London College of Fashion FW16 - London


therakishgent.co.uk


Mr. Porter & BEAMS presents... FW16 - London




Soulland FW16 - London




Turnbull & Asser FW16 - London




Velsvoir FW16 - London


all vogue.co.uk
​

 

[Prymasquous]

Andrea Crews FW16 - Paris




Henrik Vibskov FW16 - Paris
Sidenote: An Asian female model closed


all theimpression.com​

 

[Prymasquous]

Seems Milan is clear as well.


If there are more missing shows, please do add (though this is pretty much the bulk of them).

 

[Prymasquous]

Carven FW16 - Paris


crash.fr



Collina Strada FW16 - New York


untitled-magazine.com



IKUMI FW16 - New York








designscene.net
​

 

[Prymasquous]

the.CATALYST #9
♂ MEN'S RTW FW16 ♛
06.23.2016

Like their counterpart, the Women, here to inaugurate the first installment
of a growing series featuring Men

This comprehensive analysis will examine the major aspects of runway shows in the four
fashion capitals and assess the Asian male model's visibility in the art of casting


***

First, introducing the leading men

= the SWAGGERS =







*

# SHOWLISTS #
Use for reference

Alexander Dominguez | Allen Ye | Bomchan
Choi Hanbin | Choi Minhong | Choi Seongha | Chun Soot | Cong Chen
Dae Na | Daniel Liu | Danny Lim | David Chiang | David Yang | Deng Junwei | Derek Hsu
Do Byungwook | Evan Fang | Fan Wenhui | Han Seungsoo | Hao Liu
Hao Yun Xiang | Hideki Asahina | Im Wook | Jae Yoo | Jemin Heo | Jeon June
Jin Dachuan | Jino Chun | Jo Hyoin | Jo Wonil | Jo Wonjung | Jung Sungjun | Jung Yongsoo
Kim Byeongsu | Kim Jingun | Kim Junsung | Kim Sangwoo | Kim Yanghoon
Kyungjin Park | Lee Sehan | Leo Lim | Li Chen | Li Jin | Li Zhenyang
Liu Xingyu | Lu Piqiang | Moon Seunghoon | Nathaniel Dam
Ni Nao | Niko Xu | Noma Han | Pace Chen | Paolo Roldan | Park Hyeongseop
Qinghe Zhao | Remi | Ryu Wankyu | Scott Neslage | Seong Hakyun
Shi Qifan | Shin Donghan | Sungjin | Takahiro | Takuya Ebihara | Tomo Abe
Tomo Kurata | Tsubasa | Wang Chenming | Wang Hao | Wang Hongyu | Wang Tingyun
Wayne Lau | Yan Kaiwen | Yoo Eun Sang | Yoon Wonsik | Yu Fangqing
Yusuke Ogasawara | Zhang Chao | Zhang Zhengyang | Zhao Lei


*

OPENED | CLOSED
Those who embody the collection best, sets the mood and tone... then there are those
that leaves us a lasting, wistful impression

Bomchan opened Dsquared²
Chun Soot opened Tourne de Transmission
Hao Liu opened Walter van Beirendonck
Liu Xingyu opened Vivienne Westwood
Sungjin opened Siki Im
Tsubasa opened Umit Benan
Wayne Lau opened Oliver Spencer
Wayne Lau opened YMC
Deng Junwei co-opened Emporio Armani
Moon Seunghoon closed Kenzo
Moon Seunghoon closed Walter van Beirendonck
Paolo Roldan closed Todd Snyder
Sungjin closed John Elliott
Sungjin closed Rag & Bone
Tomo Abe closed Lucio Vanotti
Wonjong closed Berluti


*

|| EXCLUSIVES ||
Strategic or a just-kind-of-happened moment, this ensure to give a buzz frenzy,
in hoping to increase the model's chances

No models were considered exclusive this season


*

+ INCLUSION +
Highlighting shows for integrating Asian models in their cast; and conversely,
expose shows that do not employ Asian

Some of the best and worst shows at casting:

New York
7 = IKUMI
0 = Michael Kors

London
4 = Maharishi
0 = Moschino

Milan
11 = Dolce & Gabbana
0 = Calvin Klein, Canali, Ermenegildo Zegna, Ferragamo, Prada, Roberto Cavalli

Paris
8 = Kenzo, Umit Benan, Walter van Beirendonck
0 = Comme des Garcons, Dior



Acknowledging the biggest highs and low


Show with the most Asian models:
Dolce & Gabbana (11)


Inability to envision Asian in its cast, by far:
Saint Laurent

It is not about having literally zero in its cast,
but persistent of division and ostensibly excluding Asian men, for several seasons


Best show utilising Asian men:



Dsquared² managed to cast 10 Asian models; opener was Asian;
and two models had two looks - making it the preeminent show this season


*

// BY THE NUMBERS //
Aggregated data for research purposes and additional information pertaining to
Asian's presence across the four cities

129 - total number of Asian men that walked FW16
0 - number of models to walk ten shows (or more) in all four cities
56 walked the runways of New York
134 - total spaces available in New York
16 positions given to Asian men for opening/closing shows
30 walked the runways of London
70 - total spaces available in London
87 - total number of times models received two looks
54 walked the runways of Milan
114 - total spaces available in Milan
11 - number of shows with five Asian or more in its cast
53 walked the runways of Paris
111 - total spaces available in Paris
15% - Dolce & Gabbana's cast consisted of Asians
9 - most shows walked by a model in New York
0 - number of models to walk five shows in all four cities
8 - most shows walked by a model in London
2 - total number of times a model received three looks (or more)
7 - most shows walked by a model in Milan
0 - models received the exclusive badge
7 - most shows walked by a model in Paris
35 models are of Korean descent
78 - number of shows exhibited tokenism
33 models are of Chinese descent
73 - number of shows' cast had no Asian
8 models are of Japanese descent
3 - number of models to walk all four cities
2 models are of Filipino descent
268 - total shows reviewed
1 model is of Vietnamese descent
428 - total spaces for Asian male models FW16 season


*
​

 

[Prymasquous]

...cont.



OUT(K)OME
The aftermath of walking shows has its rewards and its losses (fatigue!)

And by no means of pitting these men against another,
here to recognise the faces that earned their prize of the title: King

To achieve that, models' showlists are compared and contrast
to determine who seize the top spots in each city, both for quantity and quality
*tie-breakers were acknowledged




New York:






London:






Milan:






Paris:




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Revealing the Kings of the season

Quantity Overall:



#2 BOMCHAN
#3 HIDEKI

Honorable mention: Ryu Wankyu & Jeon June

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Quality Overall:



#2 CHENMING
#3 YUN XIANG

Honorable mention: Byungwook & Qinghe


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Lastly, new to this format...

Best Performance by a leading Man:



Attributing to Bomchan's victorious run was a matter of excellence in shows,
his distinguished characteristics, and an opening honor


Runner-ups in no particular order: Sungjin, Chenming, Yun Xiang and Qinghe


*

: DISCUSSION :
Further details concerning shows' behaviours, summary in its findings,
and closing statement ​

• New York Integration

Special mention goes to: no show in particular

More emphasis on: Tommy Hilfiger (2); Alexander Wang, Hickey Freeman, Rag & Bone (1)

Shows that did a decent casting of Asian male models: John Abboudd, Nicopanda, Rochambeau, Todd Snyder (4); Craft Atlantic, Deveaux Grungy Gentleman, HVRMINN, John Elliott, Malan Breton, Nautica, Ovadia & Sons, Perry Ellis, Public School, Pyer Moss, Siki Im (3)

The highest cluster of models appearing at New York shows was 24 where one/two models being present; and it was across the board from top shows to smaller brands

Interestingly as the most Asian-friendly city, New York barely had no shows that could match shows in Milan and Paris both for opening/closing shows and cast size

More than half of the shows reviewed in New York had one/two models

Asians occupied a total 22 at 'top' shows

• London Integration

Special mention goes to: no show in particular

More emphasis on: Burberry (2); Alexander McQueen, Coach, Dunhill, J.W. Anderson, Pringle of Scotland, Topman (1); Moschino (0)

Asian faces at Belstaff, Craig Greene, Joshua Kane and Xander Zhou (3) were some of the few that maintained above a two

Not a whole lot of excitement to garner any headlines, but London did what was hospitable for Asian men

More than half London's shows reviewed accounted for one-Asian-per-show

Asians occupied a total 11 at 'top' shows

• Milan Integration

Special mention goes to: Dsquared² (10); Emporio Armani (8); and Les Hommes (7)

More emphasis on: Ermanno Scervino, Ralph Lauren Purple, Versace (2); Diesel Black Gold, Etro, Gucci, Jil Sander (1); Canali, Calvin Klein, Bally, Ermenegildo Zegna, Marni, Prada, Roberto Cavalli and Salvatore Ferragamo (0)

Asians were much incorporated at Fendi, Giorgio Armani, Lucio Vanotti, Philipp Plein (4); Bottega Veneta, Brioni, Dirk Bikkembergs, Iceberg, Missoni and Stella Jean (3)

Highest frequency founded was where shows (15) had two Asian in its cast

It is bizarre that Milan is known to be the least acceptance place for models of colour, but this season's atmosphere had the highest turning points for Asian men

Milan had the highest rate of Asian inclusion when it came to top shows

Asians occupied a total 69 at 'top' shows

• Paris Integration

Special mention goes to: Songzio, Yohji Yamamoto (6); and Haider Ackermann (5)

More emphasis on: Cerutti 1881, Louis Vuitton, Y-3 (2); Givenchy, Valentino (1); Comme des Garcons, Dior, John Galliano, Paul Smith and Saint Laurent (0)

Shows with an inclination for Asian males include Balmain, Rick Owens (4); Ann Demeulemeester, Berluti, Dries van Noten, Etudes, Hermès, Julien David, Lanvin, Pigalle, Sankuanz and Thom Browne (3)

Top six shows with Asian result of 41 spaces; and all opening/closing occurred amongst these six shows

Paris has the most opening/closing of the four capitals, but they were not bluechip shows

Asians occupied a total 22 at 'top' shows




To extend this review, Asian male model's visibility could be assess through fashion shows and casting decisions, where both positive and negative effects could arise.

For instance, this season has seen the many gains that were presented to Asian men and the impact of these offerings, in one sense, have risen their presence among key elements such as opening/closing shows and cast size. There were 16 moments where Asian men were seen loud and clear for opening/closing shows -- examples at Berluti, Vivienne Westwood, Oliver Spencer and Rag & Bone. Shows that did a tremendously great job with a rather large cast were Dolce & Gabbana, Dsquared², Walter van Beirendonck, Umit Benan, Emporio Armani, Kenzo, etc.

Where there are success there are disappointment, or unfavourable circumstances. One prime example would be exclusives. The idea of being exclusive has its advantages in helping a model's profile and in general, in this specific case, raise the visibility of the Asian male figure status.

Even though this is not unusual (and men's casting may differ a lot from women), only three Asian men walked the entire circuit with a combined total of 33 shows. Casting-wise only Jin Dachuan, Jeon June and Hideki Asahina were considered (or perhaps, available).

Furthermore, there were zero Asian representation at some of the biggest names in fashion: Calvin Klein, Roberto Cavalli, Salvatore Ferragamo, Saint Laurent, Ermenegildo Zegna, Dior and Prada. Some of these shows have displayed a consistent attitude for exclusion. Some even maintained this pattern for many seasons and years. Additionally, of the aforementioned brands, there is an inconsistent of Asian presence across their respective show's history and this season continues to perpetuate that view. Meanwhile, some are quite consistent and adamant in casting one Asian when it calls for "diversity".

Speaking of diversity it was keenly observed that the overwhelming majority of Asian models were of East Asian origin, namely, Korean, Japanese and Chinese. South East Asians were few and far between. South Asian such as Indian have no voice unlike female Indian models that we have seen in the past couple seasons. Perhaps this will evolve over time as Indian male models be receptive as their counterpart.

Distribution among the four cities was expected to be disproportion. New York account for most times Asian made an appearance (134), but Asian's visibility was more pronounced in Milan when we take a closer look. Because this evaluation considered the main aspects that would credit to "best city with Asian presence". New York also had the highest concentration of models (56), yet, still lag behind Paris in a couple areas. Basically Milan came out on top followed by Paris, New York then London. Although, it should be noted that the ambiance in Paris was relatively good as Milan. It really came down to the elements where Milan "earned more points" than Paris. As the data presented in this review, one would see that both cities did a terrific job accommodating Asian models respectively.

Interestingly, if we were to divide the total runway appearances (428) to every Asian model (129) that walked this season (FW16), then each model would walk three shows among themselves.

To reiterate and succinct this: Of the 268 shows reviewed 428 spaces assigned to Asian male models; 11 shows had an outstanding cast with five Asian or more with a sum of 84; 129 models participated; 16 times a model got to opened/closed a show; 3 models walked all four capitals; 0 exclusives; Asian men's visibility comprised of 6%.

Overall, there were numerous opportunities and obstacles that Asian male models experienced, as evidences suggested previously. Regardless, the sentiment should be ambivalent as this season's report have not compared to an earlier season, thus we could say that the positives prevail in relationship to Asian male's visibility and where opportunities were affirmed. At the same time there were weaknesses and issues that cannot thrive and be overlook. Fashion shows in the near future could be strengthened and improved with more all-inclusive measures in changing the structure, and better engaging and creativity in casting decisions to assist, ascend and sustain Asian male models in high fashion.

***

NOTES​

The purpose of this study is to inspect brands' cast and analyse the visibility and performance of the Asian male figure. This is also an opportunity to offer insight and address the disparity that may manifest in shows and casting

Procedure in collecting and evaluating the data and information is essentially reviewing the shows, like the Women

The 80 models presented here is not a true representation of all Asian male models that walked, but are the most recognisable faces. It should be understood that it is not intentional to leave out other models from the picture. Even though they are not part of the 80 faces, they still play a significant role in gathering the data where they could be found in By the Numbers and Discussion sections

Of the 80 faces, model Remi's ethnicity is unknown hence it was left out in By the Numbers

All Models' second (or third) look was left out from their showlist; one look per show

It is worth mentioning that some shows/presentations may have been omitted partly due to nonaccessible instances or excluded, such as Moncler Gamme Blue, because models' faces were unrecognisable and a list of names is unobtainable. Shows such as Tom Ford and Balenciaga were not taken into account. Some model's showlist may be incomplete or missing a show or two. However, from the findings and reviews, it is very likely that almost all showlists and shows are completed

Without prior knowledge and/or direct sources, it is unsure whether there were possible exclusives or not, but there found to be none this season

It is imperative to be aware that it is difficult to measure the shows in terms of their prestige without a point system, whether it is bluechip or third-tier. Therefore, model's placement in Out(k)ome were considered from show's history, designer, relevance and emphasis on brand's impact in menswear

Best performance by a leading man is weigh on the following criteria:

• Did he opened/closed shows
• Was an exclusive (if any)
• The quality-ness of his shows

This is not to suggest that he did the best in all areas, but rather the demand and influence of a model is and his overall performance

The percentage was rounded up to the nearest whole number for Asian models in Dolce & Gabbana's cast

The 6% in the second last paragraph in Discussion is a mock trial projecting an overall estimation of Asian presence in the entirety of FW16; this was rounded down

When we talk about tokenism, which was observed in this report, we should bear in mind of the positives and negatives. Some may perceive one Asian is better than having none - which in a sense does seem better. While some may find that unsettling. Tokenism could exemplify many different meanings for whatever the brand is trying to convey or do, and we may not know the full extent of their intention(s). However, when shows are known for being a 'global brand' such as Prada with a cast of 25+ then tokenism should not be exercised at these particular shows. It could be practice at a less prominent show in accordingly to its cast size and whether they are reaching out to their Asian customers, or to attract them. Of course it is ideal to abolish tokenism altogether

Please note that everything documented here is not perfect. It is possible that there may be something wrong or mistakes when conducting this analysis, although much time and effort tries to avoid or minimize errors. This study's goal also strives to be accurate as much as possible from the readily available information in a thoughtful manner

CREDITS:

Pictures courtesy of crash.fr, designscene.net, grungygentleman.com,
nowfashion.com, progressivepulse.com, theimpression.com, tumblr/marieahh,
untitled-magazine.com, vogue.com, wwd.com
and zimbio.com



All written materials and illustrations by Prym

Special thanks to theasianmalemodel.com​

Thank you for your interests in Asian male models!



gif by me
​

 

[Prymasquous]

Besides the flashing lights, diamonds, extravagant dresses, the spectators and the ebullient energy all around...

What does film and fashion have in common?

Many things.
But one thing is for certain: Beautiful and compelling women in front of the camera doing what they do best --
creating spellbinding visuals with effortless poise and seduction.



This year saw the reappearances of three, and one new addition to the experience.


Festival de Cannes 2016



gotceleb.com; harpersbazaar.com.sg; wailaike.net; zimbio.com



Ming Xi wearing Zuhair Murad | Liu Wen in Giambattista Valli | Xiao Wen have on Azzedine Alaïa | Soojoo wears Tom Ford



Perhaps, one of these ladies will appear on the silver screen... soon.​

 

[Prymasquous]

Splash!


After years of hiatus she made an unexpected runway appearance at Moschino's resort show.

Yes! Devon Aoki.

And her return wasn't minuscule, Aoki even closed out the show, showing everyone she still got it.





So, when are we going to see Suki on the big screen
or looking raw and marvelous in fashion spreads, say, the near future?


Whether she'll attempt to make a comeback or not -- one thing is for sure,
she's beach ready and set for the summer.



Welcome back, Devon!



gif by me; thefashionista.com; tumblr/kuroikami​

 

[Prymasquous]

♫ Finaallyyy!!!

Somebody put Koreans on top, Top, TOP!

Case if you didn't know

Right now, Koreans are hot, Hot, HOT!

So come on, you gotta let it show ♫


***


Since they won't do it.

Elle Korea didn't hesitate to put Korean first in supportive of gracing five established
protagonists on their current June issue:


edited via nomadmanagement.com | original cover here



Covers are scarce let alone given the opportunity. So can we rejoice for this moment?



Check out the charming full story below,
featuring Sunghee, Soojoo, Jihye, Jiyoung and Hyeseung









naver.com
​

 

[Prymasquous]

Frenemy?!


Why the jealous? Or, what's the problem?


They are out there. Out there trying to stir some drama and make unreliable assertions
and have one person headbutt another.

Like, do Asian models really need that right now?



Cut to the chase: Each model have paid their dues and earned the merit
to be the individuals they are today and not subjected to a ridiculous and arbitrary "showdown".

Sure. We could dissect their resume and interpret it.

Both talents' body of work speak for themselves. And that's that.


Are we really gonna throw one under the bus and discount the other,
because of one's immature mentality and preference for one model and not the other?

It happens. And it's fine if you don't like the other.
Although... is it necessary to drag a a name into a nonexistent situation?
For what good?


Neither of them wouldn't be here if it wasn't meant to be.

Whatever it may be and wherever their career trajectory takes them or looks like,
both are equal and have achieved solemn respect for one another.




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In closing, to reassure the doubters, a recent interactive of the two:
And you have to play it to feel it.


gif by me





Yep.
Still pretty good ol' friends as before. Are they really gonna fight between their career?​

 

[Prymasquous]

Better in view.

Models in alphabetical order according to post #871 under Showlists.

All made by me.







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[Prymasquous]

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[Prymasquous]

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