Balenciaga blacklists Vogue Paris?

[Salvatore]

Anna at the very least gives the younger generation of designers a chance to succeed, even if they have no money to shell out as bribes.

Remember that documentary about Carine and the French editors not caring at all about smaller fashion houses? I wonder if that could be part of the corruption and Balenciaga finally calling it out.

no money = no chance to be in VP

The documentary by Loic Prigent if I'm not mistaken ?

 

[style_expert]

The only difference I see here is money. Personally I have no issue with the Vogue girls getting paid for a job they actually do.

In the end, the fashion business is pretty much all about money, just like any other business. So money might be the only difference, but to me it's a huge difference.

Pleasing big advertisers is a reality all mainstream magazines have to face in order to survive. The trick is to do that while still remaining creative and keeping an identity (I don't know about creativity recently but Vogue Paris certainly has a strong identity). Whatever you might say about what Carine and co are doing at the moment, their love of fashion is undeniable.

Very true. Their love of fashion is undeniable, but it seems their love comes with a price, too.

 

[Leeroi]

The documentary by Loic Prigent if I'm not mistaken ?

Yup that one. It was practically anti-VP. Anna sure did have a great time calling out the VP Team.

 

[LolaSvelt]

Wow, that's very...random. Carine has always been a big fan of Nicolas' work.

 

[Salvatore]

Yup that one. It was practically anti-VP. Anna sure did have a great time calling out the VP Team.

Okay yes ! And it's amazing that some of the younger designers featured in it (mind you they were amazing) you still have yet to hear about them more . It was very interesting and does kind of go with this topic now that you mention it .

 

[Leeroi]

Okay yes ! And it's amazing that some of the younger designers featured in it (mind you they were amazing) you still have yet to hear about them more . It was very interesting and does kind of go with this topic now that you mention it .

Yes, and some of those designers are more talented than these designers Carine and her teams love to feature in their magazine.

 

[Harumi]

^I did make a similar remark about Wintour in another thread and somebody rightfully answered me that which designer has talent is a matter of subjective opinion, not a fact.

 

[Salvatore]

^I did make a similar remark about Wintour in another thread and somebody rightfully answered me that which designer has talent is a matter of subjective opinion, not a fact.

Yes it is subjective, but if you were to compare what they were doing to what's being featured, it's on par and plus they are young which should give them even more of a want to feature them . I don't know, there's a lot of favouritism maybe .

If I am not mistaken, did not Coco Chanel do something like this when there was favouritism of her competitors by the press ? I cannot remember where I read it .

 

[LesFauves]

I really think we're running with this salacious idea that involves bad blood between MA Sauve, Carine Roitfeld/VP, and Balenciaga, and now Anna Wintour is getting wrapped up in this conversation...as I said earlier, I highly doubt it is this scandalous. Others have rightly said that this kind of "pay for play" editorial goes on in every magazine, with regard to the clothing of advertisers and also labels styled by the same stylist doing a particular shoot. It's not exclusive to VP, and no one really has a problem with it in the industry...

As a side note--I think we are also giving Emanuelle Alt too much credit for her work at Balmain. Sure, she does the campaigns and the clothes are in VP, but with regard to her personal style...of course TFS users regularly look at photos of her and know she frequently wears Balmain. But the average consumer of Balmain may not be that savvy. While it's not as commercial or well known as Gucci, it isn't as "insidery" as something like Sacai or Alaia, etc. Many women who buy it I'm sure have seen it somewhere, thought "oh that's expensive and sexy" and bought the jeans or shoes or skirt. It's pretty preposterous to conclude that their 50 percent sales increase can be pegged on one French woman, however chic..

 

[Urban Stylin]

IMO the designer loses more than the magazine theres only 1 Vogue Paris s theres Balmain Lanvin, YSL etc

 

[Leeroi]

There's only one Balenciaga. It isn't some generic brand like Louis Vuitton that you can easily replace with Gucci or some other logo driven brand.

In the fashion world where every other designer is practically carbon copying past collections into the current season and calling it a day; Ghesquiere is moving on and setting his own pace way beyond the likes of Lagerfeld or Galliano.

You mention, Lanvin and YSL; how many times have we seen the same drapery work by Elbaz? The same unflattering high waisted pant suit by Pilati?

Unless VP decides to put more efforts into featuring designers like Yamamoto, Watanabe, Ackermann, Rick Owens, Gareth Pugh, and Demeulemeester, you're left with a magazine stuck with the same "chic" look that is not innovative in actual clothes making in terms of technique, fabrication, and new silhouettes. Paris is suppose to be the driver that drives the rest of the fashion industry into the future; but without Ghesquiere's efforts in Balenciaga there's nothing new to see except the current trends and nudity in glossy pages.

 

[ilaughead]

^You make some good points, but remember that "designers like Yamamoto, Watanabe, Ackermann, Rick Owens, Gareth Pugh, and Demeulemeester" are just as much a specific look as Balmain and Givenchy. We can't just trade one for the other.

 

[madame_georgiana]

You mention, Lanvin and YSL; how many times have we seen the same drapery work by Elbaz? The same unflattering high waisted pant suit by Pilati?

How many times have we seen hideous clothes on the Balenciaga runway?

 

[Label Basher]

It kills me how people describe how much power Anna has, even if its true. After seeing "The September Issue" my long-term dislike for her was made even stronger.

Thank you for saying this. I am so sick of the "Queen Anna rules the world" wank. Yes she is really really great at what she does but so are the other fashion editors of Vogue/Bazaar/Elle etc.

That scene in Sept Issue with Stefano Pilati is cringe worthy. He was like shaking just cause she didn't like the fact he wasn't doing evening wear. Critics and fans love what you do Stefano and so does Pierre Bergé who is notorious for hating when people f*ck with YSL so it's ok. I liked how Gaultier didn't give two hoots what Anna thought.

Nine time out of ten Anna's either wearing Oscar, Chanel or Prada. It's not like she doesn't have her favourites too. Carine does an interview with CNN and who's she wearing Balenciaga throughout. Carine has always supported Balenciaga.

 

[Label Basher]

Corruption, to me would be more akin to Anna Wintour maneuvering to ban Alaia from a retrospective about Models as Muses because she and her magazine have a personal beef against him. Now that's rotten.

Very good point. And who did the Supers side with that night. Alaia.

 

[Label Basher]

it leaves very little room for independent and/or younger designers who are sometimes very talented (Dries van Noten, Ann Demeulmeester, Haider Ackermann, some London designers etc.)

Yeah but since when has Anna given a thought about these people or someone like Martin Maison Margiela.

 

[style_expert]

^ that's hardly the point

there's not always the necessity to compare Carine with Anna..just because the one is doing something right or wrong, doesn't mean the other has to follow.

It's like saying 'but Anna has her favourites too' is a valid excuse for the obvious favouritism in Vogue Paris..

 

[Leeroi]

How many times have we seen hideous clothes on the Balenciaga runway?

That's obviously subjective. I wasn't talking about pretty or ugly. I was talking about new innovations, silhouettes, patterns, techniques... etc. Hideous or not, you cannot deny Ghesquiere's undying strong penchant for new techniques in clothes making and fabrication; something Paris is suppose to be renowned for.

Yeah but since when has Anna given a thought about these people or someone like Martin Maison Margiela.

The difference is that the designers mentioned/listed are stationed in Paris. Anna more or less caters to the taste of NY so it's only reasonable for her to try and find new talents in NY. I'm pretty sure Anna would not mind supporting designers from Paris who decide to station themselves in NY in the future. Like what me and Salvatore were getting at, it should be VP's goal to rile up new designers, but instead they're siding with already established big brands. How many times are we going to see a house revival in Paris while independent designers are left for nothing?

Very good point. And who did the Supers side with that night. Alaia.

I think Anna already explained herself. If it was her decision to leave his work out, although very bitchy on her, at the very least she exercised some power. Supers not being there obviously didn't do anything to deprive the event of press coverage; if not actually given it more because of the controversy.

People may not like Anna's attitude, I for one am not a big fan of her, but denying her unreasonable control in the fashion industry is ridiculous. You got every editor in the world bowing down to her and shaking their boots if they wrong her in any way.

And the documentary me and Salvatore was talking about, Carine didn't even respond to what Anna was talking about.

- - - -

I think some people can't believe people are bad mouthing Carine because they see her as the innocent better dressed sister of Anna.

 

[MissMagAddict]

Yeah but since when has Anna given a thought about these people or someone like Martin Maison Margiela.

I don't specifically remember Ackermann, but MMM, Anne D. & Dries have all been featured in US Vogue editorials.

 

[Ciao!Manhattan]

There's only one Balenciaga. It isn't some generic brand like Louis Vuitton that you can easily replace with Gucci or some other logo driven brand.

In the fashion world where every other designer is practically carbon copying past collections into the current season and calling it a day; Ghesquiere is moving on and setting his own pace way beyond the likes of Lagerfeld or Galliano.

You mention, Lanvin and YSL; how many times have we seen the same drapery work by Elbaz? The same unflattering high waisted pant suit by Pilati?

Unless VP decides to put more efforts into featuring designers like Yamamoto, Watanabe, Ackermann, Rick Owens, Gareth Pugh, and Demeulemeester, you're left with a magazine stuck with the same "chic" look that is not innovative in actual clothes making in terms of technique, fabrication, and new silhouettes. Paris is suppose to be the driver that drives the rest of the fashion industry into the future; but without Ghesquiere's efforts in Balenciaga there's nothing new to see except the current trends and nudity in glossy pages.

If you're going to criticize VP and the team, maybe you should read it They feature a lot of Rick Owens - who is probably one of Alt's favorite. And I don't think VP does the "same chic look" in every issue.