Chanelcouture09
Some Like It Hot
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- Feb 20, 2009
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They put a show on for this mess?
Looks just like a showroom run-through of the collection for Editors and Buyers, rather than a full blown show.
They put a show on for this mess?
style.comBy Nicole Phelps
For pre-fall, Nicolas Ghesquière went back to "the era when France decided to be modern, the late seventies and the early eighties." Indeed, this collection embraced colors and prints not seen since the heyday of the synthesizer. But thanks to new high-tech fabrics and exaggerated silhouettes, the strongest pieces avoided the retro pitfall. Among the highlights were the cool teddy boy jackets. Patchworks of animal print, silk, and treated cotton, they were shown with a poplin smock top and turquoise track pants or thrown over an A-line minidress, opaque tights, and ankle booties.
The time period also saw the advent of a new corporate woman, so tailoring played a key role here. Oversize trenches echoed not only the eighties, but also the experimental volumes and proportions that Ghesquière used on the dresses that closed his fantastic Spring show. A sharp blazer belted at the waist above a waxy silk peplum likewise had a twenty-first-century sense of cool. On the accessories front, Balenciaga is getting behind big earrings in a big way, but the boxy new bags were stripped of all excesses.
By Nicole Phelps
For pre-fall, Nicolas Ghesquière went back to "the era when France decided to be modern, the late seventies and the early eighties." Indeed, this collection embraced colors and prints not seen since the heyday of the synthesizer. But thanks to new high-tech fabrics and exaggerated silhouettes, the strongest pieces avoided the retro pitfall.

they did?the strongest pieces avoided the retro pitfall
This isn't fashion ugly. It's just pure ugliness.
The collection reminds me of the movie Liquid Sky from 1982. It's like the 80's interpretation of the avant-garde space-age fashion, except we're in 2012.

the majority of the looks when looked at separately are fabulous. 5 stars from me!
For his pre-fall collection, Nicolas Ghesquière had a very specific reference in mind; the early 1980s post-punk Buffalo Girls whose layered clothing—blending 50s retro elements with boyfriend jackets and big-shouldered Working Girl power coats—reflected the eclecticism of Postmodernism. (For an eye-popping crash course in the genre, check out London’s Victoria and Albert Museum’s riveting multimedia exhibition “Postmodernism: Style and Subversion 1970–1990,” sure to have a powerful effect on designers’ imaginations this season.)
Ghesquière’s styling was pitch-perfect. The look, authentically period but suddenly edgy again, was all about layering. A broad-shouldered, stiff textured black boyfriend jacket transformed with a cinching belt and a pleated peplum of shiny pigment-treated cotton, worn over tapered maroon silk pants, for instance. A bold zebra-stripe print (originally used by Cristóbal Balenciaga in 1964, now blown up large) was used for awkwardly pleated dresses and bomber jackets in the jarring color blocks (red, olive, black, hot pink) favored by the Memphis Group. Wide-cut coats billowed to the hips for a low-slung silhouette, but pedal-pusher pants and pencil skirts hugged the natural waist. For evening, a dash of liquid-pink gold or a copper jersey blouse over a skirt.
The details—opaque hose in muddy tones of teal and lilac, dripping-leaf or lightning-bolt-shaped gold earrings, mean-heeled shoes and booties in patchworks of animalier-printed calfskin, side-parted hair—wittily suggested the look of a girl flipping through the latest issue of Jill magazine, listening to the electronic music of Kraftwerk and Ultravox, and readying herself to strut her stuff at Le Palace or Les Bains Douches, the Parisian nightclubs of that moment.