Balenciaga’s Nicolas Ghesquière went on the warpath at the
Paris prêt-à-porter season this morning, unleashing a wild, tribal potpourri of fluoro-colour, vintage print, fabric and accessories.
The clothes were among the most labour-intensive the designer has shown for the brand, mixing hand-woven leather, ostrich-skin, and silk, with nylon, techno-materials, pressure-printed jersey and 3-D ‘foam’.
The models make-up was like ‘warpaint’, with flashes of neon pink, orange, yellow and blue around their eyes. Their wrists were entwined with silver 'fangs', tied with leather thongs.
On their feet were short boots, constructed from leather, and linen and wool, handwoven on a loom, and then attached together with metal chains.
The silhouette was short, bold and dramatic, the key shapes being a mini- kilt or kilted, shift-dress; a hooded vest; tight, multi-fabric jeans; and straight tunics.
The leather vests featured astonishing handwork, the skins being looped, stamped, lined, padded and woven together with ribbon and elastic.
Dresses were in a mélange of sheer nylon, silk and leather, with flashes of technicolour lime, turquoise, pink or orange patchwork or lining, and see-through side-panels, sometimes over stretch and leather jeans in acid-lime, yellow or pink.
“It’s a dis-construction,” said Ghesquière, adding a new word to the fashion-speak dictionary. “I wanted to make an eclectic collage, to go back to what I used to do. I wanted to mix authenticity and techno, real and artificial, organic dyes and graphics. It was a challenge.”
It was a challenge he rose to – and superseded.