Bottega Veneta F/W 2023.24 Milan

[GERGIN]

I also need to address the incredible runway track! I need that a cappella version of Donna Lewis’ “I love you always forever” .

 

[Norden]

Great collection! Good fabrics and materials. But this stiffness (preferred by many designers currently) is an easy trick. Sometimes the proportions are way off, which results in some looks looking like he skinned his penthouse sofa.
His work on colors is delicious tho. Definitely one of the more exciting designers now.
Perhaps what he should work on is a more clear look. It’s still a bit general maybe.

 

[Frederic01]

As usual with him, there are far too many clashing/competing ideas in the collection to the point where it becomes visually overwhelming.

I'm in the minority here but I don't like this. IMO he needs to find a balance between the classicism of his first show and the experimentation of his last two shows, because at the moment it feels very adventurous but also lacking in refinement which is something you expect from a brand like Bottega Veneta.

Also, the menswear is a disaster. Way too avant-garde which is confusing because they were supposed to go back to a more "classic" vision and re-attract that Tomas Maier menswear clientele.

 

[RedSmokeRise]

Conflicted. I really wanted to like this but unlike the previous two collections - a lot of proportions looked super heavy to me. The outerwear is still fabulous - even if I'm not an ostrich leather person .

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I love interesting, pushing forward ideas…I’m a fan of Nicolas Ghesquiere’s work after all…But, I’m still puzzled by the whole collection.

It was luxurious, opulent in the fabrics and very rich in textures and ideas but it turned out that my favorite look was the one on Liu Wen, the closing look.

‘Ok i loved the green looking yeti coat and some of the knitwear but it was maybe too much experimentations for Bottega Veneta. Those were clothes that were interesting to look at but not desirable enough to purchase IMO.
The bags were great and some of the shoes too but if you aren’t Rihanna, an entertainer or an influencer attending shows, who are those clothes for?

It just looked like hard to wear commercial clothes. Maybe it’s the styling but I’m not feeling it.

Last season was interesting but attainable. Maybe the prefall collection will help me put this into perspective.

That being said great fabric development this season.

Per usual I am of the same mind.

This collection really should have been edited more heavily.

Absolutely there are a lot of great ideas and great pieces but then there are also a lot of bloopers. And they really distract and ruin the whole vibe of the collection.

The message is really muddled. It has sort of lost the plot even though I know the goods are there.

 

[jeanclaude]

Hate the play with 80s proportions and volumes, they are unflattering as hell (and so dated to look modern again).

And the Award to the worst look goes to...the coat which looks like a bathroom plastic curtain being attacked by mildew!!

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Not a fan of this at all. A definite step back from last season.

What is really strange about it is despite being the most experimental collection he's done yet, it has created something that lacks an honest point of view and has also made the collection look extremely emotionless. Those dresses just look so scratchy and frumpy, and some of the proportions are straight up unnecessary. It's confusing to look at all at once.

Mulier and Blazy also need to stop sharing notes.

 

[THD96]

I think it is a great collection. And a lot of great fabrics, I like that he keeps experimenting with different materials and techniques.

I like menswear, it looks like Hermès men but riskier. It's standout next to the women, I think he can put on a separate show for the men because it has the potential to be bigger. My favorite is the gray jacket with brown lining, and the look 9 coat is just screaming my name.
The womenswear is great, there are some very gorgeous coats, and the tailoring is sharp with some beautiful evening-wear dresses.

I think he needs to find more balance between the experimental and the reality. This collection is great for the show, but it still lacks the pragmatism of BV. It's a very showy collection, I would like for him to offer something less theatrical and more in tune with a real-life wardrobe next season.
He also needs to work with a new stylist because I don't think Alastair McKimm help him with elevating the clothes. McKimm works better with editorial, not the runway.

Overall I still enjoy most of this. I like Blazy the most out of the Raf trio.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Not loving it like the last collection. I'm all one for fantasy, but I feel like this is really not rooted in reality. Too much Daniel Lee social media stuff.

 

[balmain1914]

wearable，sellable，he plays safe.
that is all

 

[RaisinBoy]

I like the spirit of it. I like the experiments even though some are wrong and failed.
But at least feels somewhat fresh and worth looking at. Unlike any other show so far in Milan (dont count NY fashion week as anything at all worth even looking at).

 

[RaisinBoy]

I think it is a great collection. And a lot of great fabrics, I like that he keeps experimenting with different materials and techniques.

I like menswear, it looks like Hermès men but riskier. It's standout next to the women, I think he can put on a separate show for the men because it has the potential to be bigger. My favorite is the gray jacket with brown lining, and the look 9 coat is just screaming my name.
The womenswear is great, there are some very gorgeous coats, and the tailoring is sharp with some beautiful evening-wear dresses.

I think he needs to find more balance between the experimental and the reality. This collection is great for the show, but it still lacks the pragmatism of BV. It's a very showy collection, I would like for him to offer something less theatrical and more in tune with a real-life wardrobe next season.
He also needs to work with a new stylist because I don't think Alastair McKimm help him with elevating the clothes. McKimm works better with editorial, not the runway.

Overall I still enjoy most of this. I like Blazy the most out of the Raf trio.

Alastair Mckimm works on this? That guy is so boring and commercial to death.

 

[Kennnnn]

Some of the "experimental" looks remind me of early 2010s Christopher Kane.

 

[perhydrol]

To be honest, Blazy left me speechless for the third time, in the best way possible. It was experimental, but I feel like it was mixed with the right amount of wearable pieces which have a great potential to appeal to the less brave clients of the brand. At the same time, all the textures are wonderful and surprising, they literally demand to be touched in real life. I also love how Blazy explores the idea of movement and being on the go at Bottega, it's a very believable and fascinating vision.

Easily the best show of the season.

 

[Delleone]

In the minority here but not feeling this at all: too much technique, proportions seem off in parts, some fabrics and leathers appear ungainly. I appreciate the idea of a motley crew of characters. Fine… but this needed some fine-tuning and feels a little diarrhoeic. The last two looks I find the most desirable: they feel relaxed, luxe and accomplished. My two pennies thrown in, ha!

 

[yslforever]

And the Award to the worst look goes to...the coat which looks like a bathroom plastic curtain being attacked by mildew!!

[/QUOTE]
Oh I immediately thought of a petri dish under a microscope. It's terribly bad.
They are many great ideas in this collection but nothing is light-handed. You can see he is overthinking everything, in my mind it is simply overdesigned, nothing comes naturally or elegantly.

 

[Marc10]

Spectacular collection, yet again. He's so good at making refined luxury that is also stacked with creativity and fashion. It's not an easy thing to do. The leather work and the outerwear is to die for. The menswear is basically my ideal wardrobe.

Looks like Bottega got the last laugh in the end...

 

[ecnerretneerg]

It seems like I’m the only person not totally convinced by Blazy’s BV.

I loved the black dress styled with half of the neckline up so it looked asymmetrical. Also loved the small leather accessories—the intrecciato gloves and ostrich ties were amazing. And although I hate croc embossed anything, his use of leather for everyday basics is stellar.

With that, ugly evening wear is a becoming a trend at BV. A dress made out of patchworked long-johns? That caterpillar dress?? The embroidered looks that looked like a terrible mix of Brock Collection and Altuzarra? The yellow sputum colored leather dress with lemons or some sh*t on it?! No thank you.

 

[WAVES]

there are exceptional ideas that I love and also a few more experimental ones that I’m not so sure about. of course experiment is great and it shows that there’s a genuine interest and a will to do our push boundaries and that’s always commendable.

all the leather pieces are incredible, that dark green ensemble with ostrich skin is unbelievable (I wish he had played a bit more with this type of construction or a couple more colours), the big lapelled coats in leather and the mint jacket/ outfit is gorgeous (also would’ve liked to see it in another colour).

the minus are some of the dresses.

overall it’s a good collection and clearly he’s on the right path.

 

[Phuel]

Shades of Raf’s Calvin Klein permeates the best of his sensibility, giving the women’s a much more versatile, so much more luxe, so much more artisanal backbone to many of the designs-- once seen as separated.

The men’s on the other hand, is an absolute eyesore (except for a couple of coats), though. Dominated by hideous proportions that are either that 80s tapered v-silhouette— compete with the upturned sleeve styling, or it’s that 90s fuddy-duddy oversized look that makes everyone look like a hobbit. Very forced and desperately JW’s faSHON. And he’s so much better than JW to being stooping to such lows.

There’s a lot of luxe separates that’s overburdened by the gimmicky branding. It’s a shame that this is what labels have to resort to in order to create a profile, and beg for attention on SM these days. No doubt the women’s seperates will be desperately coveted in the shop, but thank goodness for the stills as always, @vogue28. Like most shows these days, I couldn’t suffer watching it to the end.

One thing's absolutely clear: his is so much better than the previous predecessor.