Burberry S/S 2022 by Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott

[Lola701]

I’m conflicted. This is very Riccardo so I like it but it’s boring and it looks like his old Givenchy campaigns. His personality is maybe too overwhelming for a brand like Burberry.

How’s burberry under Tisci going on sales? Any WWD News / report about it? Because everything is so boring and no british or even burberry anymore.

It’s not doing bad actually…
Riccardo’s work may not be it in terms of vision but it’s very products oriented so, it does fairly well. It’s not the biggest hit of the decade but he delivers what he was appointed for.

 

[RaisinBoy]

It does fairly well. It’s not the biggest hit of the decade but he delivers what he was appointed for.

It's weird because I see many people in my small, 2nd rate European country wearing and buying Burberry. It's the type of customer who has no knowledge of Tisci and certainly don't fit the image. So why are they buying it, I wonder.

 

[aracic]

Full campaign:

Photography: Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott, Chris Rhodes
Styling: Katy England
Hair: Jawara
Makeup: Isamaya Ffrench
Models: Chisom Okeke, Chu Wong, Claus Emilio Royo, Erwan Konate, Irina Shayk, Manolo Teodosiu, Maria Keidj, Miles Gardner, Mona Tougaard, Niclas Baker, Paula Rudevica, Rianne Van Rompaey, Siny Mbengue, Sita Zampou, Vira Boshkova


Burberry

 

[Lola701]

It's weird because I see many people in my small, 2nd rate European country wearing and buying Burberry. It's the type of customer who has no knowledge of Tisci and certainly don't fit the image. So why are they buying it, I wonder.

Don’t think that the people who bought Burberry under Bailey knew who he was. The main difference between Bailey and Tisci is that Tisci works in a bigger scale. The Prorsum line allowed for Bailey to express his creativity, have a voice in the HF circuit when most of the money came from the BRIT and LONDON lines. And Bailey did very themed collections that created a certain type of excitement.

When the lines disappeared for everything to be under Burberry, suddenly, Bailey was lost. We all remember how tragic his last few seasons at the house were.

With Tisci, there’s a sense of unity mostly because I think the product is at the core of it. I remember during one of his first season, there was a boutique event in Paris to present the collection. The majority of the customers invited were quite classic. But I’m sure in LA or NYC, it’s different. And of Course in Asia!

A brand is not always exactly who we think they are. Prada is supposed to be about intellectual and artists and all. Except for those who are around Miuccia. I’ve yet to see that in recent times.

You would be surprised to see the types of people who wears Balmain for example sometimes.

 

[WAVES]

I think that product wise, Riccardo is doing a good job. I have appreciated thoroughly his classic approach on Burberry since his forts collection and I also like his personal approach which is what most people wrongly IMO consider his Givenchy years influence (I don’t think that’s Givenchy, I think that’s him).
of course and unfortunately, not the entirety of it (collections, I mean).

but then we have these campaigns. no spark at all, no involvement, no storytelling, no dream.

I still think he’s a good designer.

 

[Lola701]

I think that product wise, Riccardo is doing a good job. I have appreciated thoroughly his classic approach on Burberry since his forts collection and I also like his personal approach which is what most people wrongly IMO consider his Givenchy years influence (I don’t think that’s Givenchy, I think that’s him).
of course and unfortunately, not the entirety of it (collections, I mean).

but then we have these campaigns. no spark at all, no involvement, no storytelling, no dream.

I still think he’s a good designer.

He is still a fantastic designer indeed. The reality is that there are some fantastic propositions in his work at Burberry. But it’s such an underwhelming tenure that it’s hard to really dissect or appreciate the jewels. His tenure has been all along what maybe what Nicolas tenure at Vuitton is becoming. The only difference is that everything Nicolas does feels more intentional because for the first 3 years of his tenure, there was a real hype and real momentum.
Riccardo never experienced that momentum. And I’m not talking about commercial success here.

Hedi at Celine is far from being the commercial success announced by LVMH but we can all agree that in terms of impact and critical reception, his second collection will remain as a great moment of his tenure.

I’ve liked a lot of what Riccardo did but I can’t name one collection because he tried to talk to many audiences at the same time and that strategy, while clear, felt confused.

At least with this campaign, it feels very directional but with Riccardo we never know if this is a promise or a one-off.

 

[kasper!]

The campaign somehow feels very Helmut Lang..

 

[GivenchyHomme]

The campaign somehow feels very Helmut Lang..

If Helmut Lang was bland and sexless.

 

[vogue28]

Beyond sterile and stale, and can only agree that Riccardo Tisci's Burberry advertising campaigns have ALL been underwhelming. Another campaign that also fails to make an impact in print. Not even M&M and this casting can save the end result here from mediocrity!