I’ve always found Raf too heavy-handed in his design offerings, and way too insufferable in his presentation aesthetics to make sure everyone gets how high fashion he is. He’s never been about restraint.
However, as obnoxious as the gimmicks are here— and this is likely the most unbearable and most blatantly in your face of his aesthetic direction since he took over at Calvin, it’s still more forgivable, more palatable and way more restrained then the his lessers Demna, Alesandro and Virgil. Take away the cheap gimmicks of basketball-themed accessories, and Ivy League branding that resemble the brand of cheapness, tackiness and juvenile-level of gimmckry that’s a result of some flash design challenge on any given episode of trash-TV like Project Runway, and the rest of the pieces are just slicker, sleeker, repurposed Raf signatures. I still wouldn’t wear any of this, let alone pay for it. But it’s a lot less insulting than anything by the lessers that have become the leaders of this dire era of big fashion.
Maybe even Raf knows he needs to dumb way way way down to appeal to the kidz to have some relevance these days. (And I really dig his version of the Frye/cowboy boots in Pop Art colorway.)