Catwalk Trends S/S 09

[Spike413]

It's that time of year again, so with the shows getting under way let's start the trend spotting


Just a reminder, if you would like to start a thread for a specific trend on the runways, please make sure that you have examples from at least 5 collections.

 

[Spike413]

So far the one of the major things going on seems to be sherbet colors.

Alexander Wang

Erin Featherston

Lacoste

ThreeAsFour

nymag.com

 

[MulletProof]

I also noticed NY seems to be picking up on the chignon trend started by Parisian houses last season and often spotted in our Scandinavian Street Style thread..

Jenni Kayne

Yigal Azrouel

Elie Tahari

Alexander Herchcovitch

United Bamboo
http://www.***************/image/2008/W37/090720080056588751.jpghttp://www.***************/image/2008/W37/090720080056587033.jpg
[elle/gettyimages]

 

[mackos]

I guess mini-lenght strikes again:

Rag & Bone

Alexander Wang

BCBG Max Azria

Lacoste

DKNY

style & coutorture

 

[gius]

@ Tokyo ... r u f f l e s
flounces, etcetra


imo this came in from 2008 .. prada/miu miu had ruffles on their shoes and just generally billowing fabric in the spring and fall collections
same for marni.. in their online shop, it's a total direction towards wispy ruffles for the front, esp at the neckline.. and also in their resort collection
and jil sander had floating fabric at their coats' collars for fall

mintdesigns

jfw

né-net

jfw

noriko fukushima

zimibo

somarta

zimibo

sunaokuwahara

jfw

-
two at NYC

charlotte ranson

coutorture

karen walker

style

 

[Crying Diamonds]

Trends I have seen emerging:

Lace - I recall quite a lot of lace again.. to my concern

Grey - I've seen tonnes of grey, well we had lots of florals in the winter this year, so maybe next summer will have the grey?

 

[gius]

yes ^ grey tones and pastels ... everything softene or saddened or 'distempered'

as for LACE...
what i saw is more opaque motifs on a sheer background...
not lace like hole-y fabrics (though there was some of that too)
but rather opaque fabric placed ON TOP a transparent fabric

some examples...

alexander wang

gettyimages

somarta

zimibo

karen walker

style

charlotte ronson

coutorture

james coviello

nymag

 

[Crying Diamonds]

^ I much prefer that to lace

I've also seen a few tartans (a bit like last summer) and several butterflies..!
But not to many "groundbreaking" florals, as Miranda says.

 

[mackos]

"groundbreaking" florals, as Miranda says.

Florals? For spring? Groundbreaking. I love that scene

 

[shirleebee]

- the new hybrid shoe of choice: the sandal boot (seen best at Alexander Wang)

- increasingly creative palettes for shoe boots (which are still huge). Citron, orange, patent white. Colored statement boots of all varieties are a trend we'll see beyond NYC.

- Dressing for comfort. Witnessed at BCBG, Yigal Azrouel, Max Azria, etc. Ease and utility paired with innovation is what "luxury" means for Spring 2009 - in a stressful era, comfort in your own skin and body must be considered vital to contentment.

- Sports-oriented details. Maybe it's because of the Olympic year, or maybe it's related to the turn towards comfortable dressing, but A. Wang, BCBG, Lacoste (obv) all showed draped dresses and separates in tasteful jersey.

- Florals, fluttery silks, typical Spring finery themes. Nothing new here. Florals are still very big, as are bold hues and silk pailletes incorporated to create movement.

- One interesting trend: a new focus on texture and overlays. Witnessed best at Vicente Villarin, Staerk, and Malandrino. Azrouel also did some crepeing and pleating on his fabrics to make them replicate organic movements.

- Last season's trends still relevant: polished grunge (treading water from F/W 08), rock & roll meets prep (Rag & Bone and their ilk), hippie, bohemian romance (DVF, Erin Featherston), minimalism (to some degree, but not as much as I had hoped - then again, the European shows will likely develop this further).

Again, NYFW only is 1/4 of the major Spring 2009 story. And often it presents a misleading idea about where fashion is headed for the next season. Not until Paris - or Prada - will the real excitement begin.

 

[4n98]

ruffles are everywhere.（Preen，Oscar de La Renta，Phillip lim 3.1 etc）
fuchsia is hot.
bandage swimsuit and dress.
marni-like necklace
headpieces
flowers element(e.g. print)
bold shoulder silhouette（YSL's influence）
satin fabrics

 

[gius]

- One interesting trend: a new focus on texture and overlays. Witnessed best at Vicente Villarin, Staerk, and Malandrino. Azrouel also did some crepeing and pleating on his fabrics to make them replicate organic movements.

would be interested to see some visuals in what you're saying, shirleebee and hearing more about what you mean

if you meant overlays by layers of transparent fabric..
i did notice this a lot
at malandrino

she would have sheers on top of graphic fabrics
fluidity over rigidity (structure with the opaque fabric.. and creating texture with pleats on top with sheers)

style.com

her dress at the end of the show was a great example too
though not part of the collection
http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashionshows/S2009RTW/CMALAN/RUNWAY/00470m.jpg

 

[Aretha]

What about rolled pants? It's been all over the catwalks

 

[shirleebee]

^gius. I mean that I've seen a lot of strategically rumpled fabrics, typically in the collections that cite nature as their influence. The rippling effects (usually in jersey) seem to be subtle indicators of organic movements. Malandrino's show definitely played with overlaying fabrics, creating depth upon the surface. I think this might relate to Prada's F/W 08 collection, which had eye-popping demonstrations of creative fabric and lace overlays. Levi Yukinov (who I interviewed a week ago) says he sees all fabrics as a base/foundation upon which to build new textures and to construct new forms. I found the first half of that statement pretty intriguing, because it reminded me of the additive scuplture method.

I'll try to post some photos (my own) of the organic movement of textiles. A lot of the shows that featured this are not on style.com. But Yigal's program went into surprising detail about how important this texture-in-motion aspect was to his collection. I wonder how it translated to the average viewer? Sometimes once you spot a quality for one show, you see it everywhere. The "soft bondage" & "peekaboo" trend became ubiquitous by week's end, for example. Funny how that works.

P.S. The midriff is (kind of) back! I never would have thought.

 

[disco54]

I have seen a lot of rolled pants and harem pants but I honestly dont see these trends lasting more than a season . Rolled pants look very frumpy , and are like a very weekend thing. Harem pants can be nice but they have to be luxe ..otherwise it just ends up looking weird with your outfit.

 

[starlette627]

harem pants are everywhere! And more jumpsuits, sheer and nude-tone colors. I'll find some images to post in a bit..

 

[ChrissyM]

maybe you guys should start some individual threads on the trends that seem to be taking off?

i personally haven't really been picking up on too much this season...
(but then again i may not be paying close enough attention )

i feel like we're seeing a lot of the same sorts of things we saw in past seasons and that a lot of people are doing different things...

or.. that i don't know what to call/how to explain the things that i've noticed..

 

[MulletProof]

^ I love when that very last thing you mention happens.. when you really don't know what to make out of anything at first glance and it only starts coming together as weeks pass. it makes clothing a lot more exciting as it takes another meaning or gets some sort of tiny story behind its presence.

 

[adorefaith]

i personally haven't really been picking up on too much this season...
(but then again i may not be paying close enough attention )

i feel like we're seeing a lot of the same sorts of things we saw in past seasons and that a lot of people are doing different things...

or.. that i don't know what to call/how to explain the things that i've noticed..

i was just thinking this over the last few days... i feel like a lot of things i'm noticing are a continuation of past seasons... maybe with little modifications and evolutions here + there...

and with the rest of things i feel like i'm not picking up on anything coherent yet either ....maybe thats just a matter of time and as we see more shows from milan, paris etc things will start filtering and falling into place... often after the new york shows i think something is looking like a huge trend and it completely disappears once fashion week hits europe...

i'm noticing a lot of things i noticed during s/s08....rolled jeans, lots of orange.... and i cant remember who started the thread last spring about transparency/sheer fabrics (mullet? gius? ...) but so far i am noticing a LOT of that....and loving it...

really the point of my post was just to say 'hear hear' to you Chrissy...

 

[karina_zb]

maybe you guys should start some individual threads on the trends that seem to be taking off?

i personally haven't really been picking up on too much this season...
(but then again i may not be paying close enough attention )

i feel like we're seeing a lot of the same sorts of things we saw in past seasons and that a lot of people are doing different things...

or.. that i don't know what to call/how to explain the things that i've noticed..

I agree. I may not be paying enough attention, and I haven't finished looking over everything, but I have yet to see anything that really strikes me as new.

I am loving the whole grey for spring, however