Uh-oh. It appears I'm going to start babbling right about now.
It sounds like (especially from that interview) that Karl is just having fun right now, and I have to say, please continue, Mr. Kaiser sir!
Interesting how, while some other houses are playing it very, very safe since this whole economic thing started with pretty frill-less collections, Karl went the opposite route, getting a lot more ornate than before. But unlike, say, the Paris-Moscou collection, this is really light and young.The pieces may be heavily embroidered, but they aren't visually heavy. I can see that jacket Freja's wearing in the finale in a VP editorial already, and if the tag was cut out and it was sold as Balmain, Emmanuelle would be in it in a second.
It's a well-known fact that I'm a huge fan of Chanel/Karl, but in all honesty I love probably 90% of the pieces here. (Not the clogs, but I'll take those as a cutesy styling choice rather than a serious statement. For now, at least.) There are a few whorish looks, but that's to be expected, and unfortunately I can see them being big-sellers. A few more suits would have been nice, because Karl does skirt suits like no other, but the suits that were shown are beyond lovely.
I see the Marie Antoinette idea, but it seems that Karl isn't too keen on labeling it that way. I wonder why? I really wouldn't mind a few more 18th century inspired jackets, though, but I suppose Karl didn't want to take the idea all the way out there. Vermont really has made an impact on him! And surprisingly, I'm enjoying it!
Something I love about Karl's work at Chanel is the ability to trace his ideas through his collections. The ballooned shoulders in the first couple of looks, for example. I remember seeing them on a white petaled shirt in spring '07, and then again, modified a little in the spring couture show the next year. (A re-reinterpretation is on that scary looking model toward the end of the show.) And then this season he used a much more structured version at his own label. The Marie Antoinette idea was also used before (spring '05 couture) but look just how different Karl has developed it here! He may work in a very defined aesthetic, but somehow he can present the same idea over and over without looking overly derivative.
Menswear-wise, this seems to be a pretty personal collection, mostly from those fantastic black pants so similar to the pair that Karl used to wear all the time. This season he's been pretty self-referential, and it's really paying off. Karl does after all dress as well, if not better (some of the time) than he designs.
expecting
The set: probably the most surprising thing I've ever woken up to see. I love the standard white Chanel look Karl has always done, but it's refreshing to not see some giant versions of Chanel codes (jackets, bows, charms, perfumes, etc.) again. Also, I'm done with white this season, so this was a nice change. (The clothes, too! Nice to see some creams and off-whites!)
I didn't even talk about the clothes this season that much. But I'll cut it here. If you read this far, I'm impressed!