Vogue Italy-
It's not a famous soundtrack nor is it a trendy rock group: to accompany the
S/S 2011 runway show at the Grand Palais in Paris,
Chanel had an entire orchestra present. Strings, woodwinds and percussion rendered the atmosphere even more refined, for what always proves to be one of the most spectacular shows of
Paris fashion week.
They used the same location as February, when Lagerfeld presented his collection with icebergs, was once again breathtaking: alongside three great fountains, there was an elegant
French gardens with Chanel nuances in black and white. Front row celebrities included
Keira Knightley, Lily Allen and Rachel Bilson. They weren't the only guest stars at the event: for the finale, kaiser
Karl got up onto the runway together with
Inès de la Fressange, who hasn't modeled for
Chanel for twenty years, as well as
Freja Beha Ericssen and Baptiste Giabiconi.
Vogue UK-
"EPIC", "immense", "extravagant" - as the
Chanel show came to a close this morning it was all we could do to splutter the biggest words we could think of to describe it.
Karl Lagerfeld always shows in the Grand Palais and he always puts on a spectacle - but today he had planned an extravaganza on a much, much bigger scale.
The entire floor space of the building had been transformed into a beautiful black and white maze of a French garden set around three fountains about which seemingly endless models walked. "This must surely be every model in Paris," Kate Phelan said as they walked by.
Wonderful orchestral renditions of hits by Oasis, Florence and the Machine and The Verve played them out and, as
Ines de la Fressange wandered past smiling and waving to thrilled applause, it felt less like a fashion show and more like decadent fashion history being made.
But for all its ceremony, this was a show of incredibly beautiful clothes that had little or none of the kitschy element Lagerfeld sometimes includes - frayed denims or cowboy boots have been known to interrupt our fashion reverie at Chanel shows sometimes.
The extraordinary workmanship of these pieces suited the grandeur of their setting. Not overtly summery, it was about as close to couture as ready-to-wear can be, with eggshell pink silk dresses finely split in tattered patches as if they'd been unearthed in some magical attic and then touched with fine feathered embroidery.
The Chanel tweed suits, too, were expertly moth-eaten, their kimono sleeves and graphic shapes taking on a digital print effect as the model walked away proving that every moth mouthful had been meticulously planned. Later the feather embroidery emerged multicoloured from the jacket hems and sleeves.
During a season when most designers have felt somewhat floral, this house made flowers part of its inherent look, the house camellia blown up large in pale yellow and pink on layered chiffon dresses.
You can guarantee rich fabrics and luxury on a Chanel catwalk but today's metallic tweeds looked like liquid money, let alone investment pieces - and the accessories alone will make you look a million dollars: long fringes of gold for earrings, feathered and jewelled necklaces, roll-topped, feather fringed tweed bags or tiny gold jewelled cocktail bags and wooden platform heels or glittering tweed boots. And a parasol in the shape of a giant CC was divinely desirable, too.
Candy coloured floral embellishments fringed tiered and layered chiffon dresses that fell to mid-calf - the primary place for hemlines next season - and one peach explosion of marabou was a fine example of showmanship, while other black dresses of denser fabric belted in gold cord proved that this woman has a real life to lead too.
Lagerfeld has fun with Chanel - a toddler walked by at one point in identical CC tweeds to his father next to him - and leaving the show today felt like we'd witnessed something truly spectacular.