Chemena Kamali - Designer, Creative Director of Chloé

[Kennnnn]

Chemena's first interview for Vogue:

Source: Vogue

This is very promising. I'm looking forward to the collection!

 

[LadyJunon]

 

[jeanclaude]

Intensely generic...

 

[Creative]

^I thought it was the old one.

Btw, it’s been ages since a high fashion collection was this massively copied by fast fashion retailers. Chloé is literally everywhere, in every window, every website… H&M, Zara, Mango, ASOS… incredible.

I wonder how they are doing € wise.

 

[tourbillions]

^I thought it was the old one.

Btw, it’s been ages since a high fashion collection was this massively copied by fast fashion retailers. Chloé is literally everywhere, in every window, every website… H&M, Zara, Mango, ASOS… incredible.

I wonder how they are doing € wise.

probably not as good as those fast fashion retailers. Thy have a lot of work ahead to bring their name down to the massess. I think they will remain quite niche in terms of actual clients/sales until they make a real hyped show like the margiela hc.

 

[LadyJunon]

probably not as good as those fast fashion retailers. Thy have a lot of work ahead to bring their name down to the massess. I think they will remain quite niche in terms of actual clients/sales until they make a real hyped show like the margiela hc.

I know that Chloé was really popular throughout the 00s, but I don't think they truely had a mass appeal moment. The brand makes around 500-700m euros a year, which is quite a sizable business, but is easily dwarfed by the likes of The Big Four™. If their goal is to reach 1b euros in the next five years, they'll definitely need to amp up the production value of their shows.

 

[JohannesL]

Our company has worked with a few clients who wanted the Chloe boho look since the debut of the new Chloe, so there is certainly a resurging interest in this aesthetic. I don't think the aesthetic has the mass appeal right now like in 00s but today the flou, ruffle, or even drape are easier to produce with the advance of technology.

 

[Lola701]

Chemena probably wasn’t involved…When she should. It’s for the best interest of the house.

I know that Chloé was really popular throughout the 00s, but I don't think they truely had a mass appeal moment. The brand makes around 500-700m euros a year, which is quite a sizable business, but is easily dwarfed by the likes of The Big Four™. If their goal is to reach 1b euros in the next five years, they'll definitely need to amp up the production value of their shows.

You think it will be a matter of shows productions? I feel like the problem with Chloe is maybe the aesthetic itself.
I love what Chemena is already doing, I love and see myself wearing some pieces despite the fact that Chloe is not my aesthetic at all. I don’t know if the majority of women, who aren’t Chloe women would be inclined to look beyond the aesthetic that isn’t their sensibility.

I think her next few collections, the ability to release it bags, shoes or accessories will have a significant impact.

But it’s interesting that the brand is having a momentum now. Hopefully, the suits will take advantage of that in terms of events and all.

 

[LadyJunon]

Chemena probably wasn’t involved…When she should. It’s for the best interest of the house.


You think it will be a matter of shows productions? I feel like the problem with Chloe is maybe the aesthetic itself.
I love what Chemena is already doing, I love and see myself wearing some pieces despite the fact that Chloe is not my aesthetic at all. I don’t know if the majority of women, who aren’t Chloe women would be inclined to look beyond the aesthetic that isn’t their sensibility.

I think her next few collections, the ability to release it bags, shoes or accessories will have a significant impact.

But it’s interesting that the brand is having a momentum now. Hopefully, the suits will take advantage of that in terms of events and all.

Now you say that, I do notice a glaring issue with Chemena's Chloe. The aesthetic is very trope-y: the warm dusty tones, the chiffon and lace, the soft leather, the Parisian setting, the middle-parted long flowy hair. While it's an exercise of S-tier branding, it's so formulaic and precise that it can alienate some customers who don't perfectly fit into that trope.

What Chemena needs to do is design a product (a shoe, a bag, etc) that has appeal outside of that look. It might also be a good idea to consider introducing more tailoring and separates to her collections, instead of simply delivering a plethora of leather and chiffon dresses each time.

 

[tourbillions]

i think they just need a targetted approach. They dont really need to go too broad with their market. Can set up shops in many vacation areas where the aesthetic will flourish. Even middle east and japan could be good targets for them. The chloe woman is already quite rich and has very specific vibes that if she find it from chloe, she probably will be loyal forever and will single handedly grow their sales.

 

[tatouejeremie]

before all of this let's see if she can put together an exciting collection without the help of lotta as the pre she presented after the show was sh*t

 

[Lola701]

before all of this let's see if she can put together an exciting collection without the help of lotta as the pre she presented after the show was sh*t

So far her first collection, which is a hit, wasn’t styled by Lotta…
I think the momentum is more about a feeling than quote on quote styling. A better stylist would be welcomed but I guess Élodie David is there to stay.

 

[alwaysademo]

I love that Chemena brought this lighthearted, cotton candy femininity back to the table with Chloe, just so we have that option. The 2024 equivalent of punk rock is straightforward girly for me.

 

[Creative]

What do you think Chloé needs to flourish? It’s a brand with a very bright past, but even with CWK they never surpassed certain levels of “success”. It was never a hit in the streets, aside from a bag that was successful between teenagers…

I also think they need to rise the prices and the quality of their bags to make it a serious and credible LG destination, even if their core is RTW.

With this first collection Chloé achieved their biggest momentum since Phoebe Philo. This romantic vibe was pretty much needed because we’ve had the intellectual/clean fashion trend going on for too long. There’s a will for nostalgia atm, and even her approach to design seems very 2006.

I do believe they have to keep up with the good shows, because the resort is a huge flop. I don’t think Elodie David is the right option either. And I do believe they need to invest in a “grand” show, like stated before, even if it’s a niche brand and even if small things suit it well, I think something that makes people talk about Chloé would be interesting. Maybe a show around the Effeil Tower or Bridge Alexandre III, something very Parisian cliché, idk, with very flowy dresses moving with the wind, a big casting… I think they really have to build their image, even if everybody in fashion has an idea of what Chloé should represent, the masses have no clue.

 

[Creative]

Also, they shouldn’t allow things like that perfume launch… they should create a new one for Chemena, with a new bottle and new aesthetics… less girly, more Parisian, more grown up. They need to really have a holistic approach. I get they work with Coty, but still.

 

[tatouejeremie]

So far her first collection, which is a hit, wasn’t styled by Lotta…
I think the momentum is more about a feeling than quote on quote styling. A better stylist would be welcomed but I guess Élodie David is there to stay.

you're right but the styling of the show was an obvious continuation on what lotta had done for the pre-collection, down to that questionable tucking of skirts inside the boots

 

[Creative]

^I get your point. It was indeed a continuation, even if it had the gimmicky and heavy touch of Elodie.

I am super curious about her new collection. I think it’s a crucial moment. If it’s a flop, it will be hard to recover.

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

zara.com

Zara is clearly embracing Chemena's style.
Does anyone know if the collections perform well among retailers, Chloé boutiques and corners ?

 

[tourbillions]

Unfortunately those are quite a generic summer look for many fast fashion brands... im not sure if im the only one seeing that. And thinks that it probably has no relation to chloe at all.

 

[Creative]

Unfortunately those are quite a generic summer look for many fast fashion brands... im not sure if im the only one seeing that. And thinks that it probably has no relation to chloe at all.

It does 100%. I know people working at Zara and yeah. Mango literally copied the collection, ASOS, H&M windows… it’s crazy.

Btw, she has been nominated for designer of the year.