Fashion_Girl22
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firstview.com
I'm not sure why firstview has suddenly chosen to repost this collection, but I can't say that I am upset by the decision.
nytimes.comDior's Aggression Misses The New Romantic Beat
By Suzy Menkes
Published: October 10, 2001
PARIS— For all his soaring imagination, richly romantic sensibility and sunny showmanship, John Galliano is stuck in a rut at Dior. His attempt to turn his superb round-the-world-in-40-outfits July couture show into "Street Chic" highlighted the shift in public mood since the events of Sept. 11. And it made his exuberant take on an all-American Elvis Presley pantsuit, following floaty shalwar kameez dresses and turban headgear, seem insensitive, almost offensive.
Yet it needn't have been like that. Tuesday's Dior collection had all the right elements to make a fine show: classy trench coats in textured leather; Galliano's classic wafty chiffon dresses (even if he still insists on scarring them with zippers); sentimental prints as if from a Victorian scrapbook, contrasting with witty patterns of slot machines or South American bottle labels. And enough accessory ideas to keep the Dior tills ringing.
Bernard Arnault, Galliano's big boss, said before the show that he was hoping for something to "raise the morale" in an industry suffering from lack of traveling tourists and the American downturn. The show was clearly meant to be funky and upbeat. But the pugnacious, in-your-face urban attitude seemed out of synch with what has been happening in fashion, while Galliano is still dancing to a hip-hop, baggy-trouser beat. Isn't there enough aggression in the world without models snarling at the audience, clutching their gorgeous bias-cut gowns round their hips and stomping out with what looked like cartridge holders attached to their boots? Just occasionally this ever-so-1990s Mad Max mix was magical, as when a jeans jacket was tossed over a flowery chiffon dress and matching lacquered pants.
But radical chic is not even new for Dior. Since Galliano has so comprehensively slaughtered the house's bourgeois image, why should he be so reluctant to show his soft, romantic heart (and the clothes in all their glory) at a time when the whole word is craving sweetness and light?