somehow, i obtained a VHS of the chinoiserie collection A/W 97/98 and although much more subtle, you can tell that the the seeds of the extravagant shows of recent were being sewn way back. I am completely in agreement that Dior is not consistent creatively speaking throughout its empire. However, it's the perfumes and lipsticks and logoed trash that brings revenue for the couture collections and provide art for us and even more pleasure for thpse lucky enough to be able to afford the fantastic creations. Personally my favourite collections were the egyptian one (s/s 2004) and the stunning austro-hungarian princess-y one of a/w 2004/5, I found the recent couture collection lacked substance, too much transparency for my taste. Galliano is undeniably a genius though, and a n innovator too. His seamless dress from an early collection showed how he has a couture state of mind even when designing pret-a-porter. I remain undecided on judging 'Dior' as a whole, but haute couture is for me a precious artform with an uncertain future.