Christian Dior F/W 2023.24 Paris

[Frederic01]

This is actually quite chic and such a breath of fresh air for Dior. Finally a collection that feels linked to the heritage of Christian Dior during his tenure and not Marc Bohan (which Chiuri is so clearly obsessed with).

Of course the editing is a bit of a disaster, the casting is underwhelming, and it could have been reduced by about 50 looks, but still, it's a step in the right direction (away from all that bohemian stuff she loves to throw in from time to time).

Also, it must be said, the set by Joana Vasconcelos is incredible. Much more dynamic and interesting than those embroidered panels from last season for Haute Couture which were so boring!

 

[jeanclaude]

"We should all be boring"...

 

[FelipeV]

The Shein version of Prada SS 2009 and AW 2010.

Also, get rid of the beret hats, Maria. We get it, it's french.

 

[eugenius]

I'm more distracted by the ballsack behind them.

I mean, she likes big balls, and she cannot lie.

Like Big Kim, she makes clothes that are pretty and nice to look at (maybe), and would certainly work in a wealthy woman's wardrobe (definitely), but her collections are completely lacking in a well-defined look & style. I mean, a lot of designers nowadays don't work very hard to nail down a given look, so maybe I'm old-fashioned here. But to me, her work is just...clothes, but clothes bolstered by a dramatic runway show that's devised to make us THINK that there's something great going on there.

And is it me, or does she not know how to construct and design a nipped-in waist? It's not like I STUDY these images, but I feel like her idea of constructing and designing a nipped-in waist (a la Dior's New Look) involves nothing more than throwing a belt around it, usually a few inches above the actual waist-line, and calling it a day. Oy!

Again, I think it's telling that the guy who designed the hats seems way more passionate his assignment than she does.

 

[GoldenPetals]

Aesthetically, this could have been something from Week 1 from NYFW. Also, I find all that production kinda pretentious.

 

[LadyJunon]

And is it me, or does she not know how to construct and design a nipped-in waist? It's not like I STUDY these images, but I feel like her idea of constructing and designing a nipped-in waist (a la Dior's New Look) involves nothing more than throwing a belt around it, usually a few inches above the actual waist-line, and calling it a day.

YES! That's exactly what bothers me so much about Maria's tailoring, specifically her Bar Jackets, and it's weird how she's been doing this for 6½ years too. The upper torso always looks oddly short, the lower torso has this weird pregnant looking belly.

I'd say that she's doing that because she idolises (borderline fetishises) comfort in her work, but those jackets always look too tight on the shoulders, chest and upper arms when I see on the runway or in window displays. I've seen corsets that look less restrictive.

 

[disco54]

The only place where this will be a hit is at the Shadey Pines senior home

 

[Drusilla_]

There's something very Erdem about those blurred/colourful floral prints on the skirts and dresses (and tbh Erdem does it better, I prefer the 'English period drama' feel his clothes have) but I like the checked pieces and the gradient roll necks. Agreed that those nipped waists don't look as you'd expect of the name Dior, but I can see it selling.

 

[RaisinBoy]

I cant comment as I refuse to look at the horror that’s Dior with the current designer.
Suggest everyone does the same.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Eh, it is what it is and there's some decent pieces that can be found in this. Not sure about her execution with Prada-isms, just seems a bit odd.

However, 96 looks??? Edit that sh*t down and please do some changes with the casting and show direction. Just a touch more joy, warmth and maturity in this would be nice.

 

[brandon J pierre]

I guess it's ok. it's wearable. don't hate it. But really the runway set design is more alive and vivid than her clothes design.

I wish she would take just a little from the art its so full of color! what a shame, but nice and clean show for high end women that don't like what's going on around them in the new fashion world.

 

[Norden]

I hate everything about this. Literally everything. And I get the commercial appeal and the fact that it merchandises well. I also respect that she doesn’t make women look like clowns.
This doesn’t take away that this whole collection is a parade of bad taste. It’s all tacky. Those stupid socks, her waist lines are stubbornly off, it looks super dated and that set is a Christmas ornament high on sugar.

I can find no redeeming qualities to this directionless dior, which is devoid of ideas and full of stuff. Say what you want about raf, but at least there was an idea.

 

[Beun]

It's kind of similar to the Ferragamo collection in the sense that the clothes are (mostly) well executed and pretty, but are also rather soulless, devoid of poetry. Even for these highly commercial, super-expensive (not to say overpriced) brands, there is room for creativity and personality. BV and YSL's latest collections weren't always fantastic, but at least they are conveying something creative and personal that is missing here IMHO

 

[vogue28]

The making-of the collection:

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Behind-the-scenes:

People keep saying the clothes are soulless but this reveals quite the contrary.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I wouldn't say 'soulless' but I have no illusions that Maria Grazia's point of view always had that 'appropriateness' about it that made her clothes perfect for luxury brands who cater to a mainstream luxury customer with a relatively conservative idea of feminity - These clothes are acceptable and understandable for women from Dubai to Monaco and in the US; compared to that I think with designers like Nicolas Ghesquiere or Hedi Slimane (to name just two other designers in the LVMH fold) you have certain markets where their visual language and fashion propositions are much harder to market. In the quest for ever larger revenue growth, displaying an edge becomes a delicate affair for luxury brands belonging to one of the big conglomerates and it is inevitable the images they are putting out there cannot be as uncompromising as they probably still were in the early 2000s.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Behind-the-scenes:

These videos they do always sparks a sense of joy in me with the work that never comes through during the shows. The soullessness @Mutterlein mentions always come from (for me) the mass of clothes in each collection and the terrible casting. The styling I can kind of work with as it has its place, but when Maria references these women that have such a strong personality and presence only to cast such twee looking models is such a disservice to the clothes. And having so many looks detracts the impact of stronger ones.

She values and respects the ateliers/workers, whether it be in France, India, South Africa, Spain etc., but it never comes through in the actual shows. That's my main issue with her at this point.

 

[GRCF]

Dior to Reprise Fall Ready-to-wear Show in Shenzhen – WWD

Another one?

 

[MulletProof]

^ lol I also rolled my eyes and thought to myself 'when? f*cking July?'.. opened the link and yup.. July 12.

Who will stop this madness?. They should be audited by the EMAS for pollution.. I'm not even talking about the designs but the amount of pollution that comes with the extravagance of these shows and the frequency, it's insanity, who do they think needs it or is so thirsty to get those 75 looks from India two months ago, Mexico last month, couture in two weeks, China next month.. could they produce documents to prove 'look, this is the out-of-this-world demand, that's why we are at full throttle here'?. It's junk after junk, and then more junk, and it's not exclusive to Dior, it's like a pandemic in fashion. Just.... less is more, who even remembers that?. Then they go on interviews like 'hm yeah the public has changed, the public is a little different, it's hard to read, they want everything immediately, so we just keep running after them'.. yeah and the more you produce fashion the way a teenager flips burgers at McDonalds, the more confusing and obscure and unpredictable the public is going to look because you're in a rabbit hole! /rant.

 

[Salvatore]

I am sooooooo tired !!!!! Too many shows !!!!!!!