Christian Dior Haute Couture F/W 14.15 Paris

[Thefrenchy]

And how do you know this?

I was told by people from Dior + stated in their annual report + http://www.flanderstoday.eu/politics/raf-simons-leads-dior-record-year

 

[Melancholybaby]

^Thanks for the link. Didn't know companies announced their sales for HC.

 

[gazebo]

 

[Rosa Pulchra]

Stunning collection

 

[miguelalmeida]

This is my second favorite collection from Raf at Dior, being the first collection my all-time favorite!

Gorgeous collection, so beautiful, with so many intricate details, clothes soo well executed that fit every model like it was made just for them, they look so luxurious and comfortable, and the models look so good in them.

LOVE this collection, Raf is becoming stronger and stronger at Dior, now this brand has finally a precious and clean identity! And he takes so much inspiration from Christian Dior, making the founders presence more alive than ever, creating collections so nostalgic and yet so modern, every look reminds me of Christian's ethereal elegance plus Raf modern vision, the best fusion of creative geniuses.

With John it was a loony french women, with crazy hair and make-up ... I'm sorry to say this, I loved (almost) everything John made for Dior but it was always something unreachable or fantasy-like, now Raf brings fresh air, some realness, more sense & very good looking, new and original collections at Dior.

GO RAF!!!

 

[Menace]

About 80% of the pieces I see (albeit, well constructed I'm sure) look like they could easily be mass produced for RTW. Are my eyes deceiving me or am I really seeing a tank top in an haute couture show? In a Christian Dior HC show? Is that really just a peacoat and pants?

I feel like it's a smart move business-wise. I get it, make haute couture more "accessible" ...huge frilly artsy dresses aren't really gonna make a lot of people flock to the stores (I'm not saying that I want to see huge dresses all the time). And yes, I know that haute couture doesn't necessarily equal artistic, but this is Christian Dior? I guess it can be seen as a creative move to become very basic? I don't know. I just feel like you can be simple and creative at the same time.

Sidenote: I am obviously focusing on the very basic pieces in this collection. I do see some interesting construction work, but even so... the palate is very simple and easy to accept.

I do understand that some people genuinely love it.

But the baggy pants with the zippers... This collection isn't even appealing as a RTW collection if I'm being brutally honest.

vogue.it /// dogfunk.com

 

[thisismyname]

Indeed I questioned the same thing myself too. Even if some of you do have the qualification, I think an opinion on construction is only valid if one has seen and touch the garment especially on those Haute Couture dresses. At this modern age, what may seem like a well-cut dress may actually be horribly constructed. If seams or hems on a Dior HC garment is actually poorly done or 'unclean' then perhaps we should question the relevance of the whole industry of Haute Couture as a whole.

This is a good point. I love Raf and his vision for Dior, however in past collections I was bothered by some things that I perceived as fit or construction issues. I assumed that either: 1) Raf is trying new techniques to lighten up couture, and either the new techniques need to be ironed out more or the clothes don't photograph well but are beautiful in person to the touch and in motion or 2) the staff at the atelier have trouble executing Raf's vision and ideas (which would still make Raf culpable since part of this trouble would be based in his communication and instruction to the atelier). On a side note for item 2, does anyone know if Dior kept the same folks at the atelier or did Raf bring in new people?

From my take on this collection, it looks like any issues that I perceived in the past fall probably fall mostly in item 1. From the photos, I like the construction and fit of the clothes, so it looks like while he's still experimenting, he and the atelier have ironed out some of the issues that have arisen in the past.

On a whole, I love this collection. It is beautiful. It is both modern and timeless. And most importantly, if I had the money, I would buy as much of this as I could get my hands on. I heartily disagree with the poster above who said that this is unappealing even as a RTW collection. I covet this collection as a 20-something, but I also know several ladies who have the finances to afford couture (I would rather not namedrop), and I could envision them in many of these pieces as well.

 

[Chris_Couture05]

It's gone full circle now. Dior by Oscar de la Renta

LMAO!!!!!!!!!!

I have to agree this is very Chanel form the early 2000's. I don't hate this collection, it is beautiful but it was a but all over the place. I have seen bits and pieces of his ready to wear collections and truly began to see that he is trying to bring Dior back to where it was from the late Galliano era. I stopped watching shows as often as I used too for a about 2 years so I'm playing catch up. I think he could have had a clearer direction for this collection and that would have help a lot. But all in all I liked it for the most part.

 

[malaychic]

On a side note for item 2, does anyone know if Dior kept the same folks at the atelier or did Raf bring in new people?

Yes he did keep the same design team in the atelier (well Dior is the most intimidating couture house in Paris you can't get any better than that). Although he did bring few familiar people especially in the management side of the couture house.

Your presumption on communication problem is not baseless too. Raf can't speak French and he doesn't converse in perfect English either. To solve this problem he has a middleman who translates the messages in between the atelier and Raf himself. In 'Dior and I', Raf did not sketch but instead passed a few photos of categorised random things (this is done in the most organised manner) that inspired him to each design team as they will come out with the look. I find this to be very interesting as his way of doing things is very efficient and he use all the talents available to him very wisely. After all he needs to come out with 6 different collection per year in Dior alone.

I said this a lot to people who asked for my opinion on Raf at Dior as compared to Galliano. Galliano created clothes that people will only dream to wear and Raf creates clothes that women actually want to wear. Haute Couture used to be just about 'evoking' the brand and inspiration and is a secret society almost exclusively to American woman but HC is expanding now more than ever. This is why we are seeing a lot more practical look paraded down the HC runway mirroring the RTW but remember HC is always customised and made of highest quality of material available on the planet by the most skillful craftsmen.

 

[Koibito]

Your presumption on communication problem is not baseless too. Raf can't speak French and he doesn't converse in perfect English either. To solve this problem he has a middleman who translates the messages in between the atelier and Raf himself. In 'Dior and I', Raf did not sketch but instead passed a few photos of categorised random things (this is done in the most organised manner) that inspired him to each design team as they will come out with the look. I find this to be very interesting as his way of doing things is very efficient and he use all the talents available to him very wisely. After all he needs to come out with 6 different collection per year in Dior alone.

I said this a lot to people who asked for my opinion on Raf at Dior as compared to Galliano. Galliano created clothes that people will only dream to wear and Raf creates clothes that women actually want to wear.

Thank you for the information. I feel the way he works seems very strange and really hard to deal with the team.

And i totally agree with you at this "Galliano created clothes that people will only dream to wear and Raf creates clothes that women actually want to wear." not a very hard to realize thing but good point.

 

[malaychic]

But the baggy pants with the zippers... This collection isn't even appealing as a RTW collection if I'm being brutally honest.

vogue.it /// dogfunk.com

I find it refreshing that Raf introduced a technical look on Haute Couture runway. He is incorporating Haute Couture into the daily life of a modern woman as a whole and not just when she is attending gala dinner or party.

These few looks are surely appealing to those ladies who spent their winter holidays in Courchevel or Aspen especially layered with those ultra luxurious fur coats.

 

[MoniqValentino]

Raf show for us something new! It was great choice. I say about Raf how designer of Dior! This collection is just beautiful, simple but very spectacular! Well done!

 

[dior_couture1245]

Well, aside from his debut Couture collection, this is his most attractive collection to date. Feels good to see clothes not torturted into assymetry or strange collages of fabrics, textures and embellishments. The clothes look lighter, freer and seem to have a generally more breathable look...these clothes have not been suffocated like all of his other collections have looked to me.

There truly are some gorgeous things here, especially the 18th embroidered coats worn over black trousers and turtlenecks.

HOWEVER, there is still something so heartless and soulless about all of this. I really don't get any impression from anything Raf has done for Dior that makes me feel like he loves what he's doing.

 

[Mutterlein]

Well, aside from his debut Couture collection, this is his most attractive collection to date. Feels good to see clothes not torturted into assymetry or strange collages of fabrics, textures and embellishments. The clothes look lighter, freer and seem to have a generally more breathable look...these clothes have not been suffocated like all of his other collections have looked to me.

There truly are some gorgeous things here, especially the 18th embroidered coats worn over black trousers and turtlenecks.

HOWEVER, there is still something so heartless and soulless about all of this. I really don't get any impression from anything Raf has done for Dior that makes me feel like he loves what he's doing.

Spot on

 

[malaychic]

Spot on

Well Mutterlein, since you have been so against Raf's tenure at Dior will you care to explain more on the accusation you've made in another thread that Dior's sale has dropped since he took over? Because I have news and official documents that said otherwise.

He's not so humble in real life....
I really just think Raf and his assistant Peter are just farting around with their heads up their own arses and have no clue how terrible it is because the editors aren't telling them. In fact, the only people who have probably challenged them on it is Dior management who I have heard are upset because of the huge drop in sales since Raf took over.

I also agree that Olivier Theyskens would be a great choice for Dior, especially now that he's proved he can do easy and wearable clothes as well as couture showpieces.

 

[Mutterlein]

Well Mutterlein, since you have been so against Raf's tenure at Dior will you care to explain more on the accusation you've made in another thread that Dior's sale has dropped since he took over? Because I have news and official documents that said otherwise.

Official documents? I'd like to see.


I'm not discounting that Flanders report but I also know that reporting on numbers like that goes through the PR grinder first. I've heard the product isn't moving the way LVMH would like. Maybe my information is out of date. Maybe this information only reveals part of the picture. Who knows. You don't have to believe me.

 

[malaychic]

Official documents? I'd like to see.


I'm not discounting that Flanders report but I also know that reporting on numbers like that goes through the PR grinder first. I've heard the product isn't moving the way LVMH would like. Maybe my information is out of date. Maybe this information only reveals part of the picture. Who knows. You don't have to believe me.

1.Christian Dior Couture is a public listed company. Even with just the Flanders news as a source, one cannot simply disregard it as a 'PR stunt'. Creative side of a business is indeed subjective and may be up to limitless criticism but no one can simply generate a figure and distribute this publicly without a solid evidence as this is not just unethical but illegal as this sort of information affect stock prices and especially in France this sort of thing is very tightly monitored by their financial authority. Simply, any news when it comes to the financial side of any fashion company wherever they may appear (WWD, Business of Fashion etc) as long as they are from the internal sources they are legitimate and not merely just a PR activity.

2. Also, even if the product isn't moving the way LVMH likes, then who cares? LVMH doesn't own Christian Dior Couture instead it is the other way around (latest info indicates that Christian Dior S.A owns more than 42% shares of LVMH). So either your statement is misleading or LVMH seriously needs to worry about anything else but their principal owner. I also doubt what you regard as an information is ever out-of-date. I mean, how long has Raf been with Dior anyway?

3. Like any other public listed companies, Christian Dior S.A financial information is always made readily available to the public. Get yourself informed at http://www.dior-finance.com/en-US/

4. From the annual reports in year 2012 and 2013, Dior has enjoyed a steady growth in their consolidated revenue (sales A growth of 19% in 2012 and 21% in 2013. I seriously cannot think of any kind of shareholder that is not happy with this kind of info (steady growth even after the Galliano-gate and reduced luxury consumption in China & Japan). In Mr. Arnault's Chairman's Message he also mentioned there was an increase in demand for Haute Couture collection (also stated in Auditor's note in revenue section). Again, everything in these documents are regulated so one cannot simply be reckless in what they say as one may end up in jail.

5. Christian Dior Couture is undoubtedly the most loved asset of the Arnault family. Unlike any other brands the family owned, they are much more careful and selective with Dior (imagine a mother with 10 children and Dior is her most favorite son). To think that they will let 'Raf and his assistant Peter to just fart around with their heads up their own arses' around the atelier (if this is indeed true) and allow another Galliano-gate to happen, they would be very stupid and reckless. With a proven track record of building what could possibly be the biggest luxury empire in the world, I doubt recklessness is a word best associated with the Arnault family.

While it is important to be opinionated especially in a thriving forum like this, I find it a more desirable quality to be informed. Rest assured, I surely do not believe everything you said but I think it is also important no one take anything you said as a quality information hence my thorough explanation.

We can all agree to disagree on Raf's creations at Dior. Well, that's the beauty of art & design they attract discussion and healthy argument. As long as we keep fictions out of the way, that is.

 

[simple_elegance]

The dresses at the beginning are horrendous. Luckily the casual wear makes up for them.

 

[FelipeV]

He's never gonna move on. The same style, the same shoes, the same cuts, hair...

 

[VersaceVixen009]

SMALL improvement in this couture collection, but thats not saying a lot.