Live Streaming... The F/W 2025.26 Fashion Shows
Raf articulates the concepts and ideas behind his collections brilliantly, yet still he hasn't managed to define what his Christian Dior actually is.
God what I wouldn't do for some sort of grand gesture from Simons in his Haute Couture work. He's occasionally reached for that but never quite followed through.
I think that's really why his work at this house leaves me so cold; it's very quiet and somewhat unambitious in its scope. It doesn't seem to reach for the dizzying heights that make couture so special, that feeling that something has been so obsessively worked or researched or perfected and then presented in a way that either knocks you over the head with its grandness or simply sweeps you away with it. I don't just mean the flash and the glitz and the drama of, say, Galliano. Lagerfeld brings his own brand of drama. The duo at Valentino bring their own brand of drama. Versace brings its own drama. Gaultier brings his own drama. Lacroix had his own brand of it. Whichever means they choose to create it, it's there, and it's palpable when they're at their best (or, frankly, even when they aren't). Dior just doesn't have that anymore. It doesn't leave you with the feeling that what you're looking at is the most special thing you've ever seen.
This is jil sander couture, not dior couture.
Am I the only one who can actually see a modernization of Christian's Dior work? Specially the jackets. The jackets are SO Dior. It's not his fault that every single designer out there tries to copy Christian's work.
It's kinda been that way since he got the gig. People like to just pass that criticism off as a comparison to Galliano's extravagant displays, but it's not. Simons' aesthetics is minimalist (even though he denies he is), and it shows in the design. He has one dress form - form fitting top, pinched waist, poof skirt. The skill of the ateliers is definitely present - but they become muted by such clinical designs.
This is jil sander couture, not dior couture. Also interesting that he used the more demure Peter Phillips instead of experimental pat mcgrath for make up.
i thought he always did every show?