Daniel Lee - Designer, Creative Director of Burberry

[Lola701]

^^
I wasn’t a fan of the Cassette and a lot of bags from Daniel’s era but he proved that it was possible to make fun stuff at a very serious brand without losing the quality. The gimmicks, the loud nature of the accessories never compromised the quality. The clothes were well made and so were the accessories.

Yes it could have been done without the obnoxious green but it showed that artisanat doesn’t have to be a sanctuary of boredom.

And unpopular opinion: I don’t miss Tomas Maier at BV. And I loved some of his clothes there…When it was good. Tbh I don’t miss anybody anywhere in reality LOL.

 

[yslforever]

british michael kors is their best bet at this point.

i also miss tomas at BV. They would be on top of this "quiet luxury" had he stayed. I don't know if the short spike of lee there was worth it. The new positioning made the brand less luxurious for me.

Amen, I though with Tomas BV was going to be one of the key "quiet luxury" player or just a "pure luxury" player, akin to a smaller Hermès, but for a more artsy crowd.
I quite like what Daniel Lee did at BV, I just wish it was at another declining brand, Ferragamo or Trussardi (am I the only one remembering Trussardi and the greyhounds) ?

 

[yslforever]

And unpopular opinion: I don’t miss Tomas Maier at BV. And I loved some of his clothes there…When it was good. Tbh I don’t miss anybody anywhere in reality LOL.

I miss a lot of people. I miss Alber first 😢. Him and Lanvin were a sacred marriage, even if some thought it was repetitive sometimes.
I miss Kenzo. I miss Issey, I even miss Hanae's butterflies.
And I miss Karl @ Fendi and Chanel, John @ John Galliano, Martin @ Hermès (they should have knocked off Nichanian back then), I miss Helmut Lang, Jil Sander.
I miss Gianfranco @ Ferré, Hubert, Alexander, Anna Piaggi,
I miss Azzedine
I miss Claude Montana.
I miss Pilati @ YSL.
I miss JPG's couture by himself.
I even miss Zoran and Donna Karan, they would have shown those Olsen twins how to do it.

Fck I am old.

 

[Norden]

I only miss Karl these days. His personality was a comforting foundation haha

 

[Lola701]

I miss a lot of people. I miss Alber first 😢. Him and Lanvin were a sacred marriage, even if some thought it was repetitive sometimes.
I miss Kenzo. I miss Issey, I even miss Hanae's butterflies.
And I miss Karl @ Fendi and Chanel, John @ John Galliano, Martin @ Hermès (they should have knocked off Nichanian back then), I miss Helmut Lang, Jil Sander.
I miss Gianfranco @ Ferré, Hubert, Alexander, Anna Piaggi,
I miss Azzedine
I miss Claude Montana.
I miss Pilati @ YSL.
I miss JPG's couture by himself.
I even miss Zoran and Donna Karan, they would have shown those Olsen twins how to do it.

Fck I am old.

Aww so you miss your youth…

I don’t know. I think I was lucky to experience the era of fashion I experienced (the 00’s/2010’s) being in the industry and things like that.
I love most of the people you mentioned but I also understand that it’s part of history.

I’m always excited by what is to come.

What I hate about fashion is when a promising tenure is cut short but in reality, there’s a sense of closure around all those tenures.

I often look at old shows, flip old issues of magazines and sometimes hunt for pieces from collections but I have a clear understanding of it being the past so I don’t miss that.

I think things gets sour when the story after the grandiose one is just mediocre or not up to what you loved. I adored Phoebe at Celine but because Hedi at Celine was good, I don’t feel a way about the end of her story there.

I’m wishing the best to Peter Copping because I feel like they owes that to Alber, like the work he did wasn’t a waste…

Ironically I watched the Alaia 1985 show yesterday. I can’t wait to be able to squeeze my body in a tight dress now ahaha.

 

[blueorchid]

I’m always excited by what is to come.

I think it's easy to say people miss their youth when they focus on the past, BUT when it comes to fashion specifically... I find it so hard to imagine ANYTHING exciting or interesting or worth buying coming out. It's bizarre. I just feel like we're at such a low point.

 

[Lola701]

I think it's easy to say people miss their youth when they focus on the past, BUT when it comes to fashion specifically... I find it so hard to imagine ANYTHING exciting or interesting or worth buying coming out. It's bizarre. I just feel like we're at such a low point.

But the youth factor is important because our appreciation of fashion directly linked to that feeling we had when we were younger.
My issue with being nostalgic regarding fashion is comparing the past to the present.

I’m always excited by what is to come because I don’t compare the past to the present. I don’t expect the present to be as great or glorious as the past. I expect it to be different and I allow myself to be surprised by things. That’s one of the reason why I don’t even compare a designer’s past to his present work. I enjoy for example NG’s work for what it is. Yes what he did at Balenciaga informs me tremendously but I have separated his body of work there to what he is creating now.

And what I love about fashion is being able to be surprised. For me, the unknown is exciting. And I find it fascinating to see things change.

It’s interesting and almost fascinating for me to not care about brands I used to really champion because a CD change happened. I don’t care about publications anymore. I buy l’Etiquette Femme, System, Mastermind (because I feel obliged to) and here and there a special issue of Vogue or another publication.

But for me, 2025 is probably the most exciting year for fashion in a long time. And im almost glad the financial downturn happened because it forced brands to change, no matter what that change may look like.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

I think it's easy to say people miss their youth when they focus on the past, BUT when it comes to fashion specifically... I find it so hard to imagine ANYTHING exciting or interesting or worth buying coming out. It's bizarre. I just feel like we're at such a low point.

But you’re on the way to being the change we wanna see with your sewing class. We’re counting on you diva

 

[blueorchid]

But you’re on the way to being the change we wanna see with your sewing class. We’re counting on you diva

It’s true what they say, with great power comes great responsibility 😔

 

[tourbillions]

there is nothing surprising these days, shows are getting more gimicky and more basic. "I miss demna at balenciaga doing his oversized tees" or "i miss michelles grannys closet coutre at gucci". Words i could never imagine thinking in 20-30 years time.

It is ok to miss the marriage of designers and brands in the past without wanting the exact same thing today. Just because we miss it doesn't mean we want to be stuck there. Just the same level of fashion i think is what we miss.

 

[yslforever]

The issue is not nostalgia, my youth was not that great 😕, it's the sense of novelty that is missing today. And fashion for fashion, and not as an afterthought to showcase accessories.
I understand Gen Z being surprised by Pharrell at LV, but let's be honest once you have seen Walter von Beirendonk, you are not surprised or amused at all.
I miss glorious fashion, the one people created without prior market researches.
Now, a lot of them have an Unilever aftertaste.

 

[Lola701]

there is nothing surprising these days, shows are getting more gimicky and more basic. "I miss demna at balenciaga doing his oversized tees" or "i miss michelles grannys closet coutre at gucci". Words i could never imagine thinking in 20-30 years time.

It is ok to miss the marriage of designers and brands in the past without wanting the exact same thing today. Just because we miss it doesn't mean we want to be stuck there. Just the same level of fashion i think is what we miss.

I wish however that we are here on TFS because we still get somehow excited by some designers (we don’t have to agree on who). If our activity here is just motivated by the common souvenir of the level of fashion we miss…How sad right?

 

[tourbillions]

I wish however that we are here on TFS because we still get somehow excited by some designers (we don’t have to agree on who). If our activity here is just motivated by the common souvenir of the level of fashion we miss…How sad right?

I think/hope 2025 can be the start of real fashion as we like returning. With a lot of houses under real talents and people like ludovic, roseberry pushing for "Fashunn"...

Low key looking forward to mcgirrs mcqueen too... im a bit hopeful on that

 

[Olaffo]

Based on recent Burberry communication and clearly dismissing his creative input I believe he will have 1 or two more shows (his appointment was in September 2022 so most likely they’ll let him stay until the end of his contract). I bet it will be pure nauseous merch…

 

[PDFSD]

Karl @ Chanel if not only to hear him talk and say funny or witty things even the scandalous ones and see him react to new cultural trends ,
yes :
Martin @ Hermès i would not mind either ...
I miss Martin at margiela
i miss Azzedine ...
i miss early NG at Balenciaga days ..
i miss late minimal Gianni Versace days
I miss Helmut Lang at Helmut Lang
I miss Lee McQueen
I miss Hedi reworking a brand in his exact vision again and again and again
I miss the TF at Gucci golden years of precise vision and sex and USA type brand building in a euro context
I miss Dior early best years with John not the drag trashy pop era later
I miss Jil sander being pure Jil Sander lesbian chic and not a phoebe wannabe copy
I miss early Prada ugly chic with out raf and logo branding everywhere

I miss days when less people were into fashion
I agree I feel like we're at such a new low point because of the POP entertaining nature via mega conglomerates high fashion have become and social media´s influence on it.

its ok i buy less and i feel just as good if not better about going on with life without having to need more things that don't stand for anything no idea or concept or way of life expressed through taste or style etc

 

[Xone]

well what i miss is the sense of compromise designers had to the brand they work for....even if it didn't turn out well in the end but the sense of respect of the work of being a designer....and i miss Vogue Italia and Vogue Paris. and i miss Miuccia (minus Raf). and i miss Karl of course.

I don't think that the past was always better... but i do understand @yslforever point and @Lola701 because that attitude toward life in general gets your level of feeling frustrated low...

Everything is like this circle of thin air that means nothing (with some exceptions sure)

btw why you feel obligated to buy Mastermind @Lola701??? I'm curious...

 

[Lola701]

btw why you feel obligated to buy Mastermind @Lola701??? I'm curious...

I bought the first 3 issues so ever since I feel like I must have the complete collection.

It’s the same with l’Etiquette Femme (my husband collects the men’s version) and System.
I must say that I love the no non-sense approach of l’Etiquette and System.