Dior Homme - Runway

[raijin]

I completely agree with Don.
The truth is that DH is pretty much mass-produced these days.

It doesn't matter wether or not im into commercialization (which im not)
but that doesn't stop it from being a good way to increase sales.

In the end the only loyalty the company has is not to the consumers, but to the shareholders to generate more money.

CCP and some of these other small labels don't have such an obligation.

 

[raijin]

^
Don, I think you also had a good point saying that he could leave if he chose to.
Im sure he knew what he was getting into when he first signed aboard LVMH, he had been at a similarly commercial label before them, YSL.

On a side note:

Maybe we will see if this is true when he does his womens collections, if they are done independently. All the female shop staff in Tokyo DH stores wear dior homme and it doesn't look bad.

 

[Arturo21]

You both have good points, however, as I state countless times...I'm into it for the aesthetics.

Now, I don't call aesthetics following trends. If Hedi followed trends closely, Dior Homme would actually match Dior femme and/or would be more similar to D&G.

Of course Hedi wants to make a very nice living. Who doesn't? However, he doesn't completely give up his entire aesthetic style just to make money. The only thing I have a problem with is intense, intense advertising and trend following.

He has a style and he keeps it. That's why I am into Dior Homme. Anyone who just cares about if this or that is important revenue for the company and if they aren't advertising enough and that the designer should do a better job selling isn't really into fashion.

On the side, interesting interview, which does relate to the points stated above.

http://www.indexmagazine.com/interviews/hedi_slimane.shtml

 

[its life said he]

hahahaha

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Dior Homme is becoming more and more like Dior Femme in the sense that the shows are a bit theatrical and filled with interesting clothes but in the end it is just to sell leather accessories and in DH's case denim jeans. I feel that has more to do with the company and not Hedi.

 

[Fade to Black]

Dior Homme is becoming more and more like Dior Femme in the sense that the shows are a bit theatrical and filled with interesting clothes but in the end it is just to sell leather accessories and in DH's case denim jeans. I feel that has more to do with the company and not Hedi.

Or, it could be that Hedi's best assistants left him and what we are seeing nowadays is the 'real' Hedi...who comes out with unoriginal clothes merely drawn from the pop culture characters he surrounds himself with.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Or, it could be that Hedi's best assistants left him and what we are seeing nowadays is the 'real' Hedi...who comes out with unoriginal clothes merely drawn from the pop culture characters he surrounds himself with.

That is intereting. I wonder how the Dior Homme studio ecosystem flows...who actually designs the clothes?

Between hedi's first show and the most recent one it's gone through quite drastic changes especially within the last few seasons. But I remember in an interview Hedi explained how between S/S 04 and A/W 04 he went through a big change in perspective and that it would be reflected in the design. I personally don't see the lack of design ability but more the lack of inspiration and poor execution.

A/W 04 was the first of the newer collections but for me it was one of Hedi's best. All of his past ideas that were a bit challenging to wear were problem solved into very approachable clothes. I still drool over it. It went bad as his music influences became more blatant and handled with less and less skill. S/S 05 had the grunge theme but for me in the end he still made highly desirable clothes with a fairly unique look. A/W 05 had some pretty good pieces but I remember my friends seeing it and saying "umm it looks like he took some kids from one of our parties and put them on a runway."

S/S 06 was just awkward. I was in love with the draped t-shirts and the clean and sharp jackets but then when I realized it was all literally ripped from the london indie rockers it quickly became stale and boring. The pieces that were designed aren't even all that great (the uber-cropped suit jackets) and feel quite gimmicky.

I don't know. I think I'll have to see if he makes any changes for A/W 06, see where he takes the brand now.

 

[Chinor1z]

Well you can see HEAVY Martijn Ball influence in the early collections, especially Luster and Strip. Just take a look at Martijn's first collection for Verri Uomo. Mix in KVA's collection this season and you can really see where lines line Reflection must seem to come from. I really feel like we should credit the Dior Homme TEAM as a whole instead of Hedi himself, as it's pretty clear his personal influence is ah, lacking as of late.

It's that mix of all these different designer's visions that come together and make a powerhouse collection such as early Dior thru Strip/VotC.

 

[shruru]

FYI, Martijin Ball left Dior Homme just after Follow Me collection.
KVA left just after 2004 F/W.

I remember there are totally 4 major assistant designers left Dior Homme successively. 3 men and 1 women (not sure).

So it's not hard to see nowadays Dior Homme has a totally "new look".

 

[Arturo21]

Does anyone know who these other people are? ^

And what happened to martijn!?!

 

[pbtvan]

Does anyone know who these other people are? ^

And what happened to martijn!?!

As Albert mentioned, he moved on to Verri http://firstview.com/MENfall2004/VERRI/
The fall 05 season is also free to look at on firstview.
But, he spent only a couple seasons there. I think this past spring's was the last collection he designed for verri. Don't know what he's up to now.

 

[Arturo21]

^Yea, I already knew about, but like you I'm wondering what happened after that..maybe he's creating his own label?

And what happens to Verri after that?Who's replacing him? I thought for some reason that he had actually founded Verri...


that collection he did for Verri..fw05... great fabrics, interesting use of color too...although I really wish he hadn'tcombined orange and black..too "halloween"

From the look of the site, verriuomo.com...it went to the dogs..

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Yeah, A/W 04 was very KVA but in a good way. Hip and street smart but with same allure and refinement Reflection had.

 

[tricotineacetat]

Well you can see HEAVY Martijn Ball influence in the early collections, especially Luster and Strip.

No, not at all. Truth is that it was rather Nicolas Andreas Taralis who had been the driving force in the key embellishment of Luster, all those small details, like charms on belt buckles, those many metal bracelets on top of gloves, the geometric shapes, that´s pure N.A.T. graphism that can as well be found in his own collection. He actually started designing Dior´s jewellry and graphic designs and then slowly moved over into the detailling of clothes, that´s at least what I heard. People sometimes oversee his work because he chose to follow a different path as a womenswear designer.

 

[Arturo21]

No, not at all. Truth is that it was rather Nicolas Andreas Taralis who had been the driving force in the key embellishment of Luster, all those small details, like charms on belt buckles, those many metal bracelets on top of gloves, the geometric shapes, that´s pure N.A.T. graphism that can as well be found in his own collection. He actually started designing Dior´s jewellry and graphic designs and then slowly moved over into the detailling of clothes, that´s at least what I heard. People sometimes oversee his work because he chose to follow a different path as a womenswear designer.

Really? I didn't know he worked at Dior!!

And who is KVA

So who does the remaining design team consist of?

 

[faust]

Really? I didn't know he worked at Dior!!

And who is KVA

So who does the remaining design team consist of?

Kriss van Asche (sp?)

I think the remaining design team consists of Pete Doherty.

 

[Arturo21]

^....I think

I wouldn't be surprised


KVA Kriss van Asche (sp? 2)

doh..

 

[rossasavauge]

and according to the above discussions.

since when did hedi slimane become a fashion icon / designer / artist that was idolized?

and why ?


i really like KVA even though it is not as clean cut. but the chic , wearability is good.

however . KVA calls $$$$. items are more expensive than dior homme.

i would have bought that shirt if it wasnt almost $400.

woud rather spend that money on dramatic DH pieces.

 

[artxstatic]

dior homme..is too sleek!

 

[Fade to Black]

and according to the above discussions.

since when did hedi slimane become a fashion icon / designer / artist that was idolized?

and why ?


i really like KVA even though it is not as clean cut. but the chic , wearability is good.

however . KVA calls $$$$. items are more expensive than dior homme.

i would have bought that shirt if it wasnt almost $400.

woud rather spend that money on dramatic DH pieces.

KVA looks great on the runway, in person it's pretty mediocre.