arpege said:
I'll try...
FW 01 Solitaire - Black tie. On a technical level- process of couture mainly. He continued his silhouette from YSL and set everyone up for what was to come with the electro-pink and blue leather belts and the military, slim tailoring.
SS 02 Red - Romance of the battle, love wounds. A couple striped shirts from this one make me think of the Riviera and beaches.
FW 02 Reflection - Prep school, English gentlemen.
SS 03 Follow Me - This is where he started to play on the rockstar image, but there was always a casual lounge-y aspect to the more flowing pieces from this collection.
FW 03 Luster - Darker, medieval, Russian winters, military, Napoleanic...
SS 04 Strip - ?? I can hardly picture what the pieces from this one were, b/c at this point I was paying more attention to other designers. This was around when he started using the bee a lot and doing distressed blue jeans, rather than just raw denim and black, no? I think the "Dior Homme rockstar" look really came about with this collection...
I pretty much agree overall here. I might just add some other points if i may;
FW01 - Indeed the DH atelier was started and based upon the elements of haute couture. The
flou department was set up, too. 2 pieces from the Solitaire runway were entirely made by hand. A very distinct contrast between structured tailoring and the free flow of movement. Stark romanticism. Pioneering the Dior Homme 'boy' - Eric van Norstrand. The photos of Eric with the nude torso shot by Richard Avedon - the birth of the DH boy.
SS02 - It was quoted that the love shot wound shirts from RED/Boys Don't Cry were founded from the inspiration that Arthur Rimbaud's poem, "
Him Dormeur du Val" gave Hedi. The notion that boys didn't/shouldn't cry. The love shot wound shirts being the centre of attention at the show also conveyed the deep message embedded in the collection. Again, haute couture - the wound shirts were embroidered by Lesage much like how the leather corsages from Solitaire were made by them too.
AW02 - Prep school dressing as stated. Probably the most reserved collection Hedi has done. I believe this was in development after the 9/11 terrorist attacks, thus not the most 'exciting' as such. The reworking of classics - triple lapel suits/blazers, the manifesting of the 'transformed plisse' as shown on the belts/bags/sweaters. Reworking the Christian Dior plisse. Raw denim jeans introduced. Some slight miltary influence from the long coats being apparent, also in the black embroidered 'bee' apparent in dress shirts - Napoleon.
SS03 - Bi-polar extremes with the movement and flow coming from the baggy pants & very long cotton scarves. Contrasted with the heavily distressed black jeans, summer poly/cotton blend military jackets. Sleeveless tuxedo jackets. More usage of the 'bee' motif, again, Napoleon. Still, romanticism present, especially with the entitlement of 'Follow Me'.
AW03 - It was quoted that after 9/11 Hedi decided to go full on and do something radical. This collection and the following had inspiration taken from the whole 'Berlin' phase he was going through, Berlin street kids used to model the show. Fabrics were experimented with/developed at the DH atelier which led to the whole lustrous finishing of the collection, and of course, the name of the collection. Extremely heavy military/Napoleonic references. Couture grade finishings again - horse hair in gold used in the 'Napoleon' jacket. Dark expression of youth, the Berlin streets.
SS04 - Luster part deux? Even more of a contrast with the slim ripped jeans coupled with the most expensive tux jackets/blazers/jackets ever presented to date which were highly embellished. Again, gothic and dark. The snakehead motif introduced possibly representing the
AW04 - Strip didn't sell well. It was the worst selling collection for DH, not surprising seeing as there weren't many 'commercial' items to balance out the extremely high priced pieces. Thus, AW04 was the most commercial collection presented. The rockstar/indie image was pioneered here with the band Phoenix commisioned to do the music for the collection - 'Victim of the Crime', a stark contrast to all the electronica that was aired previously. Long tassled winter scarves provided the movement. The skirts presented featured the plisse pleats.
SS05 - Beck commisioned to do the music, DH 'indie boy' established as a result of Hedi's love affair with the indie music scene, right after his book 'Stage' featuring his photographs of behind the scenes from various gigs, was launched. Indeed the most overall 'colourful' collection to date, too. Metal buttons on the double breasted blazers/jackets hand made in England i believe.
AW05 - Part deux of the above, very 'Carl Barat/Pete Doherty' of The Libertines. Not surprising considering his book 'London, Birth of a Cult' featuring photos of Doherty is due to be launched. Commercialisation ensues....
SS06 - Mod. & i can't be bothered to write any more as my love affair with DH collections overall started to dwindle !
