Discussion: Who Should Be The Creative Director of Chanel?

Travel allowances are usually in the contracts.
But outside of TFSers and Lola :D , current CDs are not celebrities for the general public, they are not bothered in the streets or gawked at in restaurants.
The most established ones live in posh and quiet areas of the 6th and 7th, already full of other successful professionnals. Any weather or TV anchorman will get more attention.

I think their main issue in Paris is meeting other CDs and fashion insiders on the daily basis. That would be annoying.
They can do like Vanessa Seward and move to La Defense lol.
Puteaux or Levallois are nice areas if you want to avoid fashion insiders…You get a lot of politics and entertainers though.

But tbh, Paris is quite chill for celebrities anyway…At least those who are established in the city. Nobody cares.
Ok, Rick Owens can be very recognizable but that’s it.
 
They can do like Vanessa Seward and move to La Defense lol.
Puteaux or Levallois are nice areas if you want to avoid fashion insiders…You get a lot of politics and entertainers though.

But tbh, Paris is quite chill for celebrities anyway…At least those who are established in the city. Nobody cares.
Ok, Rick Owens can be very recognizable but that’s it.
Michèle Lamy always makes some eyebrows raise, does no help their appartement-office is right in front the National Assembly.
Also Demna's crew, because there are right in-between ministries, and they look like unwashed vampires sleeping in the sewers.
The rest of the fashion crowd (Maria-Grazia, Anthony) dress bad so they go unnoticed. It might be intentional but I suspect it's not, they just don't know how do dress non-models.
 
Notable intel from Chanel VIC spenders (including Couture clients) :

Although Chanel’s overall sales remain high — reaching $20 billion in 2023 — Viard was forced out in June. Until her successor is named, some clients are wary of buying. Former Valentino designer Piccioli has many loyal American clients who would love to see him at Chanel.

Others are rooting for Daniel Roseberry. His provocative and surrealist Schiaparelli drives the VIC set wild. “It’s bolder and more unique than most other brands,” says Nolan Meader, an image consultant and stylist. The majority of his clients are VICs.

In the U.S., Schiaparelli’s collections are available only through Bergdorf Goodman in New York and Neiman Marcus in Dallas and Beverly Hills, adding to the appeal. “What my clients, at least, were telling me is ‘I don’t buy Chanel ready-to-wear anymore; I’m going to buy Schiaparelli,’” says Thibault Brière Descors, a Paris-based stylist and VIC consultant.
Source: NY Magazine / The Cut - "The Pampered Life of a Fashion VIC"
 
Tbh, if I was a very successful and fairly exposed designer, I’m not sure I would live in Paris either. I would choose Switzerland anyday.
But there are very cute and fairly safe areas in Paris and it’s not like those designers are Karl. And they lives mostly in the best arrondissement close to work.
Out of curiosity, do you prefer Switzerland because of the lack of excessive tourism, street safety, the ability to walk alone on the streets at night, the quality of public services like public transport, cleanliness?

As for Karl, I have seen him designing several collections for various houses (Chanel, Chloé, Fendi) in a couple of hours, all the very same day, then just send couriers to the studios and calling to explain the sketches, giving instructions for the fabrics and colourways. I have seen him faxing entirely collections too. Then I assume he would go in the studio when the "toiles" are ready and for choosing the fabrics. That's where and when good premières and assistants like Virginie Viard are needed but that does not give them any distinctive visions or talent by association.

Yves also always designed at home, Deauville, Paris or Marrakech, he went to the studio to choose fabrics with Anne-Marie Munoz and Loulou de la Falaise, design the smaller elements, and finish the cut and tailoring.

But to design like that, you need to have knowledge about sewing and communication skills.
Anthony Vaccarello still can't design interesting evening dresses with a hidden corset. His summer collections are average, he does better in winter. There is a reason why he is almost never inspired by Loulou de la Falaise, because it would take a lot of effort. The inspiration is only sometimes visible in turbans, make-up and basic jewelry.
 
Out of curiosity, do you prefer Switzerland because of the lack of excessive tourism, street safety, the ability to walk alone on the streets at night, the quality of public services like public transport, cleanliness?



But to design like that, you need to have knowledge about sewing and communication skills.
Anthony Vaccarello still can't design interesting evening dresses with a hidden corset. His summer collections are average, he does better in winter. There is a reason why he is almost never inspired by Loulou de la Falaise, because it would take a lot of effort. The inspiration is only sometimes visible in turbans, make-up and basic jewelry.
Ah yes Karl was Karl ! After dinner, he was able to draw on paper tableclothes all the other designers' collections back then. 100% capable of impersonating their designs in a couple of minutes. But he was a rare talent.

Anthony Vaccarello for sure cannot draw and is limited in his skills, for sewing or colours, and limited in his imagination and inspiration too. He is more a image curator.
 
Out of curiosity, do you prefer Switzerland because of the lack of excessive tourism, street safety, the ability to walk alone on the streets at night, the quality of public services like public transport, cleanliness?
Ahaha! You named them all lol.
Tbh, I would say that I put things into perspective a lot. I’m not a big « râleuse » lol.
But cleanliness and safety that are results of civism is what I appreciate the most in Switzerland. And the landscape is extraordinary.
Paris is a very beautiful city and while most of the architecture in Geneva/Lauzanne…etc is not extraordinary, the cleanliness makes everything fantastic.

And from a fashion perspective, I dress differently there. The last time, I wore a Mr Alaïa mongolian lamb coat that I would never wear in Paris weirdly.

That being said, as much as I enjoy Switzerland and would probably live there if I was a very famous designer, I’m not sure it’s the most stimulating area of the world.

The strength of Paris is that, it’s a cultural hub. Every arrondissement has it surprised (even if most designers rarely goes out of the usual ones once they hit a certain status), there’s always something to do, to see.

Paris and NYC and a bit London are that even though Paris is not the buzzing Paris it used to be.
 
People really have this idea about the creative directors spending 19 hours per day in the studio… the reality is usually not like that. Some of them spend some time in the atelier, some others don’t. I remember when I was working at a certain brand I saw the CD once every month in the office for the fittings 🤪

These brands have many people working and the job of a CD is quite easy if you ask me. It’s harder for the people below them. Also, it depends on how much of a perfectionist you are, and we could say Jacquemus is actually an imperfeccionist 🫣
Ok so why JWA looks so tired and haunted all the time?? I was assuming that was because he does two brands
 

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