Discussion: Who Should Be The Creative Director of Chanel?

[JohannesL]

I understand the different aesthetics things, but I think John at least has tried to adapt to Margiela even it is not very sucessful in the sense of design, so I think he still has potential to incorporate the Chanel codes into his work supposing we would say he is just doing Galliano.To defend myself, I don't think I am giving the answer of this thread. Instead, I am just guessing who is going to get the job. Regarding SPJ, I don't think he is on their radar even Michele waited and didn't get their call. But let's see and we will know soon.

 

[Kimihiro]

John can do Chanel obviously, with his talent alone. But his ethos as a designer is so far from Chanel, much farther than it is from Margiela. Dior was perfect for him.

What I want from Chanel is someone who can do elevated staples, but still have enough imagination to develop techniques, fabrics and silhouettes from time to time. I mean Karl did concrete embroideries, no? Hedi would’ve been perfect, but he’s not that adventurous. SPJ is the opposite, he could be adventurous but it veers on gimmicky, and his construction isn’t up to par.

 

[tourbillions]

elevated staples

this is not what their couture/vip clients go to chanel for. Not even for the embroidered staples... They want full on wedding dressess and ball gowns for their monaco/cannes/st tropez parties. Sure they have a lot of lower clients collecting tweed jackets and skirts but thats for their rtw business. Id like to think their rtw already sell on their own but what they're losing on with all these basic collections are their couture clients. Hedi will not satisfy their couture clients which viard already lost.

 

[LadyJunon]

Chanel's next steps by the words of Bruno Pavlovsky:
- They're looking for a designer with a product-driven 360-degree vision
- The MdA show on Dec. 3 in Hangzhou will be another in-house effort
- The fate of the direction of January HC show is TBC

But Chanel has bigger issues right now. While the spring collection was a creditable effort, it also highlighted the urgency of bringing back a creative vision for the $20 billion brand.

“It’s fundamental. It’s a way to project yourself into the future and to project the brand with a 360-degree vision. It’s about the design of the collections, but also the way you present them,” Pavlovsky said. “It’s important for all this to take shape again in the coming months.”

The executive previously said the Métiers d’Art show on Dec. 3, due to take place in Hangzhou, China, would be another in-house effort. He hedged when asked about the haute couture collection in January.

Coinciding with a period of upheaval at major luxury houses, the ongoing search has created a pressure-cooker atmosphere around Chanel. “There’s a lot of tension around designer transfers right now, and we’re really trying to stay above the fray,” Pavlovsky said.

While names including Simon Porte Jacquemus and Pieter Mulier have been touted for the job, the executive provided few hints.

“I’m not particularly looking for a big-name designer. I’m looking for someone who’s passionate about the brand as it stands today, and who wants to bring it into the future,” he said. “We need someone with a product-driven vision, as they are the true core of our brand.”

That brief brings up another perennially rumored candidate, Hedi Slimane, whose spring collection, unveiled online on Sunday, could be read as an audition reel, with its slick storytelling and overt nods to Gabrielle Chanel. “It’s an honor to see how Chanel continues to inspire,” Pavlovsky said.

As it seeks to recruit an external candidate for the first time in four decades, Chanel can’t be blamed for treading carefully. “It’s an important choice. This is not a short-term decision. We don’t want to have to change again in three years. We’re looking to build a long-term relationship,” he said.

WWD

 

[tourbillions]

how does the brief "im not particularly looking for a big-name designer" bring up hedi? they zero'd in on "product driven vision" and went home with it. All hints does not lead to hedi... they dont need a big name designer... they want someone who can stay for a long time... they want someone who can bring it to the future... all not hedi.

 

[Kimihiro]

They're looking for a designer with a product-driven 360-degree vision

We’re only thinking of one person right?

They’re playing coy to be honest.