Dolce & Gabbana F/W 09.10 Milan

[diorrnottwarr]

Major step down from the past few seasons. Some of the pieces aren't too bad but the styling is atrocious. Yuck.

 

[cavanaugh]

too much of everything, designers are really over-styling this season and it severely detracts from the potential of the clothes.

 

[DuTTyRoCK112]

There are some classic, beautiful pieces lurking but unfortunately they get washed over by the ridiculous styling of 75% of the looks. Those transparent corseted lace dresses do NOT need those shoulders and all. Bare shoulders and sheer sleeves would have been sufficient.

The first leopard look (the shouldered top with mismatched leopard skirt) is great, as is the mirrored polka-dot suit (minus the fur shoulder cap). Then it just gets way too OTT and pretentious.

And would it kill them to do a finale that doesn't consist of those ball gowns? That got really old really fast.

 

[KKnardi]

Dolce & Gabbana's "Hello, Dali!"

The kindest thing to say about Dolce & Gabbana's superficial tribute to the surrealists (by way of Jeff Koon) is that the design duo must have been too busy on their new line of makeup to take a clear look at this show of Mickey Mouse shoulders (as seen last season) and Elsa Schiaparelli references.

Then there was the heavy duty for Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana of dressing the front-row stars: Kate Hudson, Scarlett Johansson, Eva Mendes, the "Slumdog" star Freida Pinto and Naomi Watts; and the three supermodel blondes, Nadia Auermann, Eva Herzigova and Claudia Schiffer. Not to forget the ghost of Marilyn Monroe, who appeared as a print in a show that was almost all in black and white, with explosions of Schiaparelli's shocking pink.

This celebrity-packed show just did not work as presented - although out of the "Hello Dali!" context, suits with elongated skirts and the graphic black and white polka dots and squares might have looked larky.

Instead, weighed down with the circle sleeves and obvious accessories: a glove hat and lipstick cases on black suede shoes (but also spirited double-layer sunglasses) the clothes looked less than joyous. They evoked just that prewar period when the lights went out all over Europe and Schiaparelli's wacky style became instantly outmoded.

Anything from Dolce & Gabbana is always beautifully realized: the animal patterns as flocked velvet surfaces, the screen prints and the chubby furs that had style and class. But so many designers, not least Yves Saint Laurent, have been in this territory. And to bring out this show at this particular crisis moment seemed - well - surreal.

suzy menkes, iht.com

 

[fierceboi]

its definately a love hate situation for me here.....

 

[tigerrouge]

Yes, there are some decent ideas hiding amid the extreme styling. I wouldn't wear 90% of those pieces as they are, but there were plenty of smaller details that, when diluted, I would certainly consider trying out this winter.

To me, the Marilyn print has no purpose other than acting as a visual counterpoint on the catwalk to the stream of dark colours and heavy fabrics. The print is a 'palate cleanser' to break up the monotony of the main looks and add some light to things. But outside of the catwalk, would they work?

And those shoes... as objects on their own, very interesting, but as something to wear, they seem impossible!

 

[helmut.newton]

Hated those awful pink looks and I hated the polka-dots and also the checkerboard print!

Last season was ten million times better because they kept the kitsch down to a minimal. This is when their aesthetic thrives and when they can really make beautiful pieces.

I like that they developed their aesthetic from Spring 2009 but how did they arrive at Barbie and Marilyn Monroe as references?!

This isn't a bad collection necessarily, but its definitely a confusing and bizarre collection for sure!

 

[JuiceMajor]

they should tone down the shoulder a little bit....they just look like cheap...well tacky imitation of Lanvin.

 

[liberty33r1b]

that collection is so beautiful, i can't imagine how anyone could hate this....

 

[TREVOFASHIONISTO]

like they've combined
their previous seasons into
one starting with S/S 08

 

[fincher]

everything looks like from victoria beckham´s wardrobe... in positive but also in negative way...

 

[Karen0193]

I think if it weren't for the big shoulder, this would've been a hot collection.

I agree, that and the Monroe print ruined it!

 

[wednesdays child]

I LOVE this collection.. i think it's really modern in a rock n roll way.. I could see amy winehouse, lily allen, madonna, Katy Perry.. etc all wearing this

 

[ForChicSake]

what a mess

 

[mharvster]

Pretty awful...

 

[christina126]

Most of it I like, but they MM dresses are tacky.

 

[cottonmouth13]

that collection is so beautiful, i can't imagine how anyone could hate this....

^ditto!!!

 

[leblue15]

Now that the 80s and big shoulders are what almost every designer is doing, I think some designers are getting right, more structured and modern perhaps but I think this collection fails miserably incorporing the trend.

Although there are some nice pieces that the over styling is hiding, overall this is a NO collection for me

 

[caliboy672180]

its too much. i always feel like they would do soo much better if they just scaled down the presentation. do we really need all these looks? no. Elsa Schiaparelli is turning over in her grave. they are so heavy handed with their surrealist touches it looses its power. they are just not very modern designers.

 

[VogueParisLover]

I really like this. The glove headpieces! Tres chic!