With Dolce and Gabbana I feel like it's a weird catch 22. If they stick to their vampy, trashy glamazon thing, they're accused of never moving on or breaking out of their corsets....metaphorically and literally.
If they go a completely different, romantic, nutty, voluminous route, they get called out for not being true to to what they do best.
No matter what, they're one of those labels that will never please everyone.
That said, I do like what they've done here. It's very, very influenced by Lacroix, but I don't know that it's a bad thing. They do have an eccentric romantic side that I think people forget about because of all the sex and kitch. This is just a new take on it, for them anyway.
I do wish they'd go back to their more strealined presenations, more edited, less showy, just amazing, dramatic clothes. I constantly go back to their f/w 98 collection as a sort of standard for them. It was sexy, tight, definitely the vampy mistress, but paired with handpainted flowers and cascading corsages bustled up in the back. It was a lot of stuff, but not too much. I think they've lost a bit of that charm these last few years.